I seen ur post about ur plugs and the gaps from originals to new ones just curious about that, looking thru my owner manual states plug change @100
k ( which all that own one of these early model r finding 2 do it EARLIER) and no GAPPING IS REQUIRED i have never heard of such thing i'm not a certified mech. but i have the knowledge to keep things running and in my 40 years have never heard of no gapping on plugs. WHAT does one do now? i'm confused now lol... UOTE=1917-1911M;2292889]2006 F150 4wd with 118,000 miles on the original plugs. I was unaware of this plug issue until about a year ago when the local Ford dealer quoted me over $1,000 for a plug change. I've been turning wrenches all my life as a hobby so after reviewing the comments here, looking at the videos, reading the Ford recommended procedure, the air wrench method, etc. I decided to give it a try.
I put one can of Sea Foam in my 3/4 full tank, at 1/2 full I added another can, at 1/4 tank I added another can. When almost empty I ran 1 can through the brake booster line. Previous to this my engine ran well at average throttle, started well but missed at WOT.
I removed the coils on the drivers side, blew out the plug recess and general vicinity, added a spray of Remington Remoil w/teflon followed by brake cleaner. Let them set a few minutes. I removed the 1st three plugs on the drivers side with a warm engine. I don't believe any of the cleaner can get past the seal until the plugs are broken loose. So, they were broken loose 1/10 turn. After a few minutes I began removing starting with #1, then #3, etc. They creaked, popped and pinged but all came out intact. The engine which was not hot by now had cooled considerably. I broke #7 loose and let it soak while removing the coils on the passenger side. Then I broke the first three loose and soaked them. #8 looked difficult to reach so I decided to leave it for last.
Letting #7 soak some more I removed #2....It didn't creak....it also wouldn't come out after the threads were disengaged. I expect the center electrode is stuck in the broken bottom ceramic. #4 came out but didn't creak either, #5 broke off, no creaking. Back to #7 and it apparently broke also but I don't have the long nose pliers to pull it either.
I really babied the ratchet on all of these plugs, back and forth but only the hot plugs, the ones that really creaked and popped came out. What I'm thinking is that these plugs separate when you break them loose. I'm also wondering if all plugs are created equal. I intend to fasten the bottom electrode of the plugs that didn't break in a vice and then with a torque wrench see if they all snap consistently or if there are large variations.
Here is a picture of the plugs that have been removed. I don't know about you guys but these do not look like carbon encrusted plugs to me. These have not been cleaned or wiped down, this is the way they looked when removed. I measured the gap in the old plugs vs the new one pictured at the top. 0.090" vs 0.045" in the new. You can also see that the new plugs have had a considerable amount of the tip of the ground electrode removed and this appears to be the area where the old style was fouled the most.
One more concern, I know how to use the Lisle tool but what I'm wondering is as I shove the broken ceramic down so there is room for a threaded extractor is there a chance the bottom electrode body could be pushed into the cylinder.
Again, I don't see a lot of carbon here. Perhaps the Sea Foam did a good job.
0.090" gap on old plugs at 118,000 miles vs 0.045" gap on new plugs. Notice the change to the ground electrode and the much longer strap. I expect the new strap will run much hotter and last fewer miles. SP-515 Motorcraft new plug PZH 14F
These look like pretty darn clean plugs to me. At this point I'm thinking that if you get them all out without breaking any.....you are lucky. Since this is a pretty time consuming effort and knowing what I know now I would recommend removing yours much earlier, like the sooner the better and either replace them or at least clean and coat with anti seize compound. I wouldn't wait until 100,000 miles. The Electrodes are very worn by then and the gap is huge. Hope this helps show what plugs look like at this mileage, the gap, what 4 cans of SeaFoam might have done regarding cleaning and that they still break. M1911[/QUOTE]