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Old 07-01-2010, 09:03 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by rodman View Post
So, I just bought a 2003 F-150 Scab XLT 4x4 with the 5.4, It has 76k miles on it. Should I go ahead and replace the plugs ? And which brand is best ? Should I have to worry about the threads coming out with the plugs on this model ?
Your 03 is a 2v and is not affected by this issue. IMO, most of the spark plug advertisement is snake oil, my recommendation is to stick with Motorcraft. I'm not positive, but I think the later 2v heads were redesigned to give more threads for the spark plug.
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:42 AM   #12
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Anyone else notice that when you use the Lisle tool to push the tip down into the ground electrode, it chips the porcelain into the cylinder? What happens to those little pieces?
Yea. They most likely go tink tink and are violently ejected out of the exhaust valves If they got hung up in the narrow space between the piston and cylinder you would hear nails on a chalkboard.
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Old 07-02-2010, 05:41 PM   #13
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actually, the chips should be small enough to just desintegrate during combustion. to be safe i'd run some seafoam thru the gas to intensify combustion an help expel the porcelin bits.
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:34 PM   #14
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Fantastic thread. Thank you. I'm trying to help my dad avoid a $650 bill for spark plugs. The only thing missing here is specific plug and tool shopping information, so I thought I'd share what I find. Prices obviously subject to change after today. Moderators, feel free to edit or remove if I've violated forum policy (which I haven't actually found yet).

There are quite a few options, and while which is best was addressed in part in the OP, I'd appreciate any further suggestions.

Amazon
Broken plug removal tool Broken plug removal tool
, $61.95 plus shipping

Rock Auto
DENSO Part # 4512 {Platinum TT #PT20TT}
New Platinum Twin-Tip design with Titanium Enhanced Ground Strap, $2.60

AUTOLITE Part # HT1 {PLUGS Platinum; Revolution HT (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
Gap .045; REVOLUTION HT is specifically designed for the Ford Triton 3 valve engine design; Optional alternate design

+ Sold in packs of 4; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $7.50

AUTOLITE Part # HT15 {PLUGS Platinum; Revolution HT (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
OE Style; Gap .045; REVOLUTION HT is specifically designed for the Ford Triton 3 valve engine design; Original equipment design
Choose:
+ Sold in packs of {x}; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $7.50

DENSO Part # 5326 {Iridium Plug #IT20}
Performance Upgrade With World's Smallest Center Electrode (0.4 mm Dia.) & Tapered Tip Patented U-Groove Design & Patented Ir Alloy (90% Ir), $7.69

MOTORCRAFT Part # SP507 {#PZT14F, PZT2F, PZT2FF4, SP421}
United States; Plug Material: Finewire Platinum; Gap: .045; Type - Standard Service Plg, $8.19

CHAMPION Part # 7989 {DOUBLE PLATINUM POWER; 0.045 Gap (Rebate/Promotion Available! See Promotions & Rebates Page for Details.)}
OE Style

Choose:
+ Sold in packs of {x}; Price reflects cost of each individual item, not the pack, $13.97

NAPA has a similar list, but prices are a buck or two higher.

Last edited by rowdyred94; 07-04-2010 at 11:49 AM.
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Old 07-07-2010, 12:39 PM   #15
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Hey I just did mine and i followed the TSB to the letter and the only thing that I did differently was I used Mopar, yes you heard me right Mopar Penetrating Fluid to soak the plugs and I must have a horse shoe up my *** but all mine came out unscathed!!! My truck has 187K kms on it!!! I wouldnt have believed it if an old mechanic friend told me. I was going to use PJ-Blast but I figured he has had 35 years of experience over my 5 so I better listen!!
So I thought I would share my little secret that saved my ***!!

But before I did this I saw this artical online and was wondering if anyone has tried this "Home Brew"???
http://autorepair.about.com/u/ua/qui...etrants.01.htm
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:24 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Tavman View Post
Hey I just did mine and i followed the TSB to the letter and the only thing that I did differently was I used Mopar, yes you heard me right Mopar Penetrating Fluid to soak the plugs and I must have a horse shoe up my *** but all mine came out unscathed!!! My truck has 187K kms on it!!! I wouldnt have believed it if an old mechanic friend told me. I was going to use PJ-Blast but I figured he has had 35 years of experience over my 5 so I better listen!!
So I thought I would share my little secret that saved my ***!!

But before I did this I saw this artical online and was wondering if anyone has tried this "Home Brew"???
http://autorepair.about.com/u/ua/qui...etrants.01.htm
I'd bet it works good, acetone and atf ought to kick carbons *****
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Old 07-15-2010, 02:45 PM   #17
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I'm glad I got on here before I went any further trying to replace my spark plugs. First, thanks to all of the contributors for the recommendations and ideas.

I bought replacement plugs at our local Farm & Fleet store: Bosch Platinum Plus # 4005; will these work, they don't look anything like the plug drawings in this thread.

My next question is what size plug wrench are you guys using to "attempt" :-) removal of the plugs? I took the coil pack off and tried a 5/8" plug socket and it just spins and doesn't bite against anything; is it too short or the wrong size? The Bosch plus are 5/8". Also, I didn't even see Bosch mentioned in the lists of different brand plugs that would work.

I know it was mentioned to wait until 100K miles, I had a coil pack start misfiring so I figured since I had to be in there, I'd change the plugs now....85K right now.

Would I be better off spraying the Ford Carb cleaner down around the base and drive it for a few days or do that once I run the seafoam through the engine for a couple of weeks?

I look forward to any helpful suggestions; thanks in advance.
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Old 07-18-2010, 01:45 PM   #18
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Thanks for your reply. I have alrady put the coil packs back on and will get the OEM plugs this week. It's interesting you said do it hot, some of the threads say don't because you may strip the plug hole.

Did you use a regular deep 14 mm 6 point socket? I couldn't even see the hex when I looked down into the plug hole, it seemed the socket wouldn't even fit down on the plug.
I would NOT break them loose hot, it's a 9/16 spark plug socket
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Old 07-18-2010, 05:31 PM   #19
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I should have clarified, when I said hot I meant fully warmed and cooled off for about 30-45 mins with the hood up. You would have to be a burly SOB to fiddle with the thing at full operating temperature lol. If you do it warm the carbon is a bit softer, the hole isn't as tight and the penetrating oil gets in easier. 1/16 - 1/8 of a turn shouldn't cause any trouble. I did it this way on my truck and I had no trouble with chewed up threads. I had 3 break and 1 that sounded horrible coming out ( not broken ) but they all came out easy. I used a regular deep 6 point socket, I think it was a 14mm as I don't have a 9/16 deep.
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Old 07-20-2010, 01:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by 14fan View Post
I have that "diesel sound" when it first cranks up after being down all night of for much of a day. Do you or anyone have any insight on this?
http://www.stangnet.com/images/stori...s/06-19-08.pdf

Also check out the tech video's that are linked in Crashtech's stickey on this subforum, it help identify the noises.
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