MAX4utah

Anywhere local (big name auto stores) to get the motorcraft or autolite plugs for cheaper than 11.99-12.99ea? I need them by monday morning.

Chrisminer01

I changed mine today at 132K and broke all 8 of them below the ring, but the lisle tool was so effective that by the time I got to the 4th plug I was not worried about breaking them anymore. The tool was very easy to use so for anyone who is doubting their ability to do this job, go for it. Worst case scenario you brake all 8 like me. It took me about 8 hours total and I ran techron with regane in my fuel for about a full tank and used hand tools, no impact wrench. There is nothing to stress over here the lisle tool works excellent if you break one.

RascalRider

Changed mine today with great success!! lol 2.5 hrs and 3 broken plugs later I was done! I have to admit that I was just helping a mechanic friend of mine and the lisle tool worked as advertised!! Replaced the motorcrafts with champions and it runs like a new one!! Mine is an 05 and has just 64K miles on it but with the difference in performance I dont know why anyone would or could wait till 100K!!

Catfish128

I just did the job myself, bought new Coil on Plug packs from Amazon, got all 8 for $199, new Autolite plugs, grease, anti-seize, carb cleaner, total spent was about $350. Took about 2.5-3 hours. I just followed advice posted here on the forum. Soaked each plug well with cleaner, waited, all came out, no broken plugs. My truck is a '05 EXT, 5.4 with 105K. I did change from Motorcraft coils to Accel coils, they were cheaper and have a hotter spark. I felt a remarkable improvement immediately! Truck runs great, more responsive. I had been having coil on plug failure for about a year and a half. Replaced two cops, had another go out, so I just pulled the trigger and replaced every thing at once. Best decision I've made in a while as regarding my truck.

lbajo1

Iv asked a few times and never got a response, what coils are you guys useing ??

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ac...rd/model/f-150

winnerverse

Thank you for info, havent got to it yet waiting for it to warm up and make sure i got all info i need QUOTE=proftomda;2289418]Winnerverse:

Regarding the 100,000 mile change interval, Ford found out a few years ago that these plugs were defective and lowered the change interval to 90,000, then 70,000 and then 60,000 miles according to my local dealer. Regarding stripped threads and plugs blowing out, you are talking about the 1997-2003 5.4 engines that had only 3 spark plug threads in the cylinder heads. The redesigned 2004 3 valve head was supposed to fix the thread stripping and plug blowing out issue, but introduced the 2 piece defective/ broke in half spark plug issue that this entire thread is about.

Regarding removal, there are many successful techniques described in this thread..hot vs cold..air impact vs socket etc. I followed the Ford TSB to the letter, did it cold with a socket and used liberal amounts of carb cleaner and pb blaster or similar. All came out in 1 piece but my truck a 2008 with 60,000 miles. I did use anti sieze on the threads of the new plugs in sensible amounts. Good luck in your endevour.[/QUOTE]

winnerverse

I seen ur post about ur plugs and the gaps from originals to new ones just curious about that, looking thru my owner manual states plug change [MENTION=129256]100[/MENTION]k ( which all that own one of these early model r finding 2 do it EARLIER) and no GAPPING IS REQUIRED i have never heard of such thing i'm not a certified mech. but i have the knowledge to keep things running and in my 40 years have never heard of no gapping on plugs. WHAT does one do now? i'm confused now lol... UOTE=1917-1911M;2292889]2006 F150 4wd with 118,000 miles on the original plugs. I was unaware of this plug issue until about a year ago when the local Ford dealer quoted me over $1,000 for a plug change. I've been turning wrenches all my life as a hobby so after reviewing the comments here, looking at the videos, reading the Ford recommended procedure, the air wrench method, etc. I decided to give it a try.

I put one can of Sea Foam in my 3/4 full tank, at 1/2 full I added another can, at 1/4 tank I added another can. When almost empty I ran 1 can through the brake booster line. Previous to this my engine ran well at average throttle, started well but missed at WOT.

I removed the coils on the drivers side, blew out the plug recess and general vicinity, added a spray of Remington Remoil w/teflon followed by brake cleaner. Let them set a few minutes. I removed the 1st three plugs on the drivers side with a warm engine. I don't believe any of the cleaner can get past the seal until the plugs are broken loose. So, they were broken loose 1/10 turn. After a few minutes I began removing starting with #1, then #3, etc. They creaked, popped and pinged but all came out intact. The engine which was not hot by now had cooled considerably. I broke #7 loose and let it soak while removing the coils on the passenger side. Then I broke the first three loose and soaked them. #8 looked difficult to reach so I decided to leave it for last.

Letting #7 soak some more I removed #2....It didn't creak....it also wouldn't come out after the threads were disengaged. I expect the center electrode is stuck in the broken bottom ceramic. #4 came out but didn't creak either, #5 broke off, no creaking. Back to #7 and it apparently broke also but I don't have the long nose pliers to pull it either.

I really babied the ratchet on all of these plugs, back and forth but only the hot plugs, the ones that really creaked and popped came out. What I'm thinking is that these plugs separate when you break them loose. I'm also wondering if all plugs are created equal. I intend to fasten the bottom electrode of the plugs that didn't break in a vice and then with a torque wrench see if they all snap consistently or if there are large variations.

Here is a picture of the plugs that have been removed. I don't know about you guys but these do not look like carbon encrusted plugs to me. These have not been cleaned or wiped down, this is the way they looked when removed. I measured the gap in the old plugs vs the new one pictured at the top. 0.090" vs 0.045" in the new. You can also see that the new plugs have had a considerable amount of the tip of the ground electrode removed and this appears to be the area where the old style was fouled the most.

One more concern, I know how to use the Lisle tool but what I'm wondering is as I shove the broken ceramic down so there is room for a threaded extractor is there a chance the bottom electrode body could be pushed into the cylinder. Again, I don't see a lot of carbon here. Perhaps the Sea Foam did a good job.


0.090" gap on old plugs at 118,000 miles vs 0.045" gap on new plugs. Notice the change to the ground electrode and the much longer strap. I expect the new strap will run much hotter and last fewer miles. SP-515 Motorcraft new plug PZH 14F

These look like pretty darn clean plugs to me. At this point I'm thinking that if you get them all out without breaking any.....you are lucky. Since this is a pretty time consuming effort and knowing what I know now I would recommend removing yours much earlier, like the sooner the better and either replace them or at least clean and coat with anti seize compound. I wouldn't wait until 100,000 miles. The Electrodes are very worn by then and the gap is huge. Hope this helps show what plugs look like at this mileage, the gap, what 4 cans of SeaFoam might have done regarding cleaning and that they still break. M1911[/QUOTE]

1917-1911M

All of the new plugs measured 0.045" between the center electrode and ground electrode. The new ground electrode is a strap rather than a hook. Obviously as the plugs spark both electrodes wear just as in a regular plug. I assume it is Ford and other manufacturers idea that these plugs can still function efficiently as the gap widens. Mine measured 0.090" or more and while the engine started and idled well it would not rev up under load without misfiring. Because I drive very easy this wasn't a problem but it is clear these plugs are worn way beyond what is acceptable. I would change these plugs in the 60K/70K range and if I had an engine with the original two part plugs in it I would remove them immediately, inspect and if found in good shape reinstall with anti-sieze compound or...not, probably put new plugs in. But I would sure try to get them out before they were as worn as mine and locked in to the point where they broke and now require the lisle tool. M1911

Blueleader

These were the bane of my existence for over 1 month. And yes the red on the towel is my blood. I have built and rebuilt gas to massive skidder diesel engines to dirt bikes and never had a rougher time than with these fracking plugs. 7 out of 8 broke and no fluid of any kind did any good. 105k miles on the engine. I tried all the tricks and nothing worked and the tool only pulled 3 out easily and the rest required heavy duty chiseling and cursing. Finally got the last two out 1 yesterday and 1 today. The Ford engineers involved in the decision to buy/make 2 piece plugs better hope they never step across my path and I found out who they are

allen_98f150

I got my plugs changed today, with great sucess. 1/4 tank with seafoam, then another 1/4 tank of gas. cold engine as per the ford tech article. coated the plugs with nickel anti sieze. electrode and threads. my secret to sucess was a heart felt prayer before i pulled each plug. Thank you Jesus for a great plug change. I believe in the power of prayer and the lord almighty. i'll say my prayers in a 100,000 more miles.