When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Decided to tackle this project. What a pain. passenger back cylinder studs broke off below the surface. Drilled top stud, broken bit off, tried welding nuts with no success, drilled through the weld, & broke easy out off. Not sure how to proceed from here. Tried a could dremel bits in the drill but the bolt seems to be very hard. I have not attempted the bottom bolt yet. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Decided to tackle this project. What a pain. passenger back cylinder studs broke off below the surface. Drilled top stud, broken bit off, tried welding nuts with no success, drilled through the weld, & broke easy out off. Not sure how to proceed from here. Tried a could dremel bits in the drill but the bolt seems to be very hard. I have not attempted the bottom bolt yet. Any suggestions would be helpful.
I drilled a hole in my broken stud and then really tapped the easy out into the stud. After that it had enough grip to twist it out. I hope that helps.
Were most of you able to SEE evidence of the manifold leak - carbon/smoke streaks where the leak is? I can hear the leak on the passenger side, and cannot find a leak anywhere else, so I am assuming the manifold. But I can't see a dark spot anywhere, or any shredded gasket remnants or anything. I can't believe this truck runs so lean that an exhaust leak won't leave carbon streaks.
Were most of you able to SEE evidence of the manifold leak - carbon/smoke streaks where the leak is? I can hear the leak on the passenger side, and cannot find a leak anywhere else, so I am assuming the manifold. But I can't see a dark spot anywhere, or any shredded gasket remnants or anything. I can't believe this truck runs so lean that an exhaust leak won't leave carbon streaks.
Yep, I can clearly see a broken off/missing manifold bolt on my truck and it sounds like a piece of junk. Started out only leaking when cold, quieted down when warmed up. Now it is worse then ever and never quiets down. Pretty sure my manifold is warped due to the broken stud.
Our's was noisy at start up then quieted down. Couldn't see where it was leaking until getting it apart (leaking head side of gasket). Leaked at 3rd cylinder back, manifold is warped but might be usable if surfaced. Decided to go with shorty headers. Pulled head (because of last cylinder studs being broken off), took to machine shop, they got 1 out, taking head to another shop to see if they can burn the other stud out since it has a drill bit broken off and is very hard, before putting back together.
Just Replaced my RH Side Exhaust Manifold. Mine sounded exactly the same as described in the original post (Ticking at start up and quieter at low idle,under light throttle while pulling a hill in OD or while towing it was the worst / most annoying).
As you can see in the below pic the rear port warped. A few pointers: Use a penetrating oil on all the hardware before removal(don't forget to clean off with brake clean prior to reassembly / start up), Undo the Engine mount and gently raise the engine as far as it will go & Take your time!
All in it probably took me 10 hours and I had all the right tools so that helped. My local dealer told me they usually bill 9 hours plus broken bolts.
Had the same problem with my 08 5.4. Good truck but I've had so many issues with that motor. Went with a 14 fx4 6.2. But I loved that 5.4 had a lot of fun with it.
Thanks man. But do it to it... But if I were to go back in time I woulda got the ecoboost cause the 6.2 right now gets 10.5 mpg I gotta fix that ASAP lol
Put lt headers on my truck, getting the old ones out wasn't too bad. Soaked in PB blaster every couple of hours for 24 hours. Nuts came right off, 11 of 16 studs came out too. My brother and I used map gas and a good pair of vise grips and the rest came out no problem. Also saw a shop that used a heat inductor to heat the stud cherry red and let it cool and the stud came right out. Labor saved by doing it myself, $1000 and had the new headers installed in 4 hours.
08-30-2014, 09:46 PM
