5.4 Exhaust manifold leak
#101
#102
Well Im day two into this and its still not done. This project has fought me every step of the way and its been pretty maddening. Got the studs out, that turned out to be pretty easy but now getting everything back together has proven to be a huge pain. First the engine decided not to drop back onto the mount when I tried to lower it, that took a couple hours, a ratchet strap and a pipe and 2 pound hammer to get back in place. Then I had to remove the new manifold because I thought I cross threaded one of the studs, turns out I didnt. As of now the manifold is on, engine is in place so tomorrow I need to figure out how to tighten the bottom studs and then connect the down pipe to the manifold then re-assemble everything I took off to get to the manifold. UGH! Im sore, beat up and frustrated but its almost done. This job isnt for the faint of heart, I swear I will never do this repair again.
/rant
/rant
#104
I have one broken stud that I'm trying to remove with the manifold still on the vehicle. It seems like it is case harden. I must have gone thru 20 drill bits not even a dent. I can use a stone bit and it grinds it down but the bits won't cut into the stud. Any suggestions? I'm using a Dremel with a 90 degree head. The only thing I can get in there. 2005 F150 5.4
#105
Update. I used a small gray stone in the Dremel and that seemed open up the stud enough to use a drill bit for hardened steel. But using the ez out to remove the stud is not working. Feels like its going to break. I need to be able to drill a larger hole for a bigger ez out. Problem is the dremel mandrel is to small and thats the only thing I can get in there. I need to use the truck this week so I'll grind down some bits to fit the Dremel and go at it again next week.
#106
5.4 L 2006 F-350 manifold leak on passenger side
Just had the pleasure of fixing my truck today. Had a broken stud (bottom-rear) that caused the infamous leak. I just want to share some tips.
Must Haves:
1. Good penetrating oil- P.B Blast or Kroil works well
2. Buy a good Gasket set- Had good luck with Felpro
3. Buy a can of copper gasket sealer- permatex
4. Order/Buy a Titan Stud remover, really worked well removing other studs.
5. Buy a S/S Stud Kit
6. While your at Napa or autozone, check price/availability of a replacement manifold, will most likely be Dorman. Also, call local Ford dealer, price was actually a few dollars cheaper at my local dealership... Go figure.
Anyway, remove the inner fender and loosen pipe at the collector,loosen all manifold bolts and remove manifold. Use the Titan if you are lucky enough to have enough of the surviving stud to grip, otherwise, if it is flush you can mig weld a nut and twist out, use a left handed drill bit or drill a hole and use an extractor. In my case, the stud broke off about 1/8" below the surface of the head and Believe it or not I could mig weld a "post" up to the surface, then weld a nut and remove- this may not seem intuitive, but it worked!
My manifold flange was also warped from the heat, instead of buying a new one, I surface ground the mounting surface and reused. You need to check the surface with a good straight edge, if it's warped bad enough it will not last and will be back to haunt you quickly. I put everything back except the inner fender, Will need to re-tighten after bringing the engine up to temp and it's easier to get at the nuts without the inner fender installed. All in all this was roughly a 6 hr.job for me, including lunch and I saved some money vs. going to the dealer. Hope this helps and good luck!
Rick
Must Haves:
1. Good penetrating oil- P.B Blast or Kroil works well
2. Buy a good Gasket set- Had good luck with Felpro
3. Buy a can of copper gasket sealer- permatex
4. Order/Buy a Titan Stud remover, really worked well removing other studs.
5. Buy a S/S Stud Kit
6. While your at Napa or autozone, check price/availability of a replacement manifold, will most likely be Dorman. Also, call local Ford dealer, price was actually a few dollars cheaper at my local dealership... Go figure.
Anyway, remove the inner fender and loosen pipe at the collector,loosen all manifold bolts and remove manifold. Use the Titan if you are lucky enough to have enough of the surviving stud to grip, otherwise, if it is flush you can mig weld a nut and twist out, use a left handed drill bit or drill a hole and use an extractor. In my case, the stud broke off about 1/8" below the surface of the head and Believe it or not I could mig weld a "post" up to the surface, then weld a nut and remove- this may not seem intuitive, but it worked!
My manifold flange was also warped from the heat, instead of buying a new one, I surface ground the mounting surface and reused. You need to check the surface with a good straight edge, if it's warped bad enough it will not last and will be back to haunt you quickly. I put everything back except the inner fender, Will need to re-tighten after bringing the engine up to temp and it's easier to get at the nuts without the inner fender installed. All in all this was roughly a 6 hr.job for me, including lunch and I saved some money vs. going to the dealer. Hope this helps and good luck!
Rick
#107
Senior Member
Just had the pleasure of fixing my truck today. Had a broken stud (bottom-rear) that caused the infamous leak. I just want to share some tips. Must Haves: 1. Good penetrating oil- P.B Blast or Kroil works well 2. Buy a good Gasket set- Had good luck with Felpro 3. Buy a can of copper gasket sealer- permatex 4. Order/Buy a Titan Stud remover, really worked well removing other studs. 5. Buy a S/S Stud Kit 6. While your at Napa or autozone, check price/availability of a replacement manifold, will most likely be Dorman. Also, call local Ford dealer, price was actually a few dollars cheaper at my local dealership... Go figure. Anyway, remove the inner fender and loosen pipe at the collector,loosen all manifold bolts and remove manifold. Use the Titan if you are lucky enough to have enough of the surviving stud to grip, otherwise, if it is flush you can mig weld a nut and twist out, use a left handed drill bit or drill a hole and use an extractor. In my case, the stud broke off about 1/8" below the surface of the head and Believe it or not I could mig weld a "post" up to the surface, then weld a nut and remove- this may not seem intuitive, but it worked! My manifold flange was also warped from the heat, instead of buying a new one, I surface ground the mounting surface and reused. You need to check the surface with a good straight edge, if it's warped bad enough it will not last and will be back to haunt you quickly. I put everything back except the inner fender, Will need to re-tighten after bringing the engine up to temp and it's easier to get at the nuts without the inner fender installed. All in all this was roughly a 6 hr.job for me, including lunch and I saved some money vs. going to the dealer. Hope this helps and good luck! Rick
#108
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Just had the pleasure of fixing my truck today. Had a broken stud (bottom-rear) that caused the infamous leak. I just want to share some tips. Must Haves: 1. Good penetrating oil- P.B Blast or Kroil works well 2. Buy a good Gasket set- Had good luck with Felpro 3. Buy a can of copper gasket sealer- permatex 4. Order/Buy a Titan Stud remover, really worked well removing other studs. 5. Buy a S/S Stud Kit 6. While your at Napa or autozone, check price/availability of a replacement manifold, will most likely be Dorman. Also, call local Ford dealer, price was actually a few dollars cheaper at my local dealership... Go figure. Anyway, remove the inner fender and loosen pipe at the collector,loosen all manifold bolts and remove manifold. Use the Titan if you are lucky enough to have enough of the surviving stud to grip, otherwise, if it is flush you can mig weld a nut and twist out, use a left handed drill bit or drill a hole and use an extractor. In my case, the stud broke off about 1/8" below the surface of the head and Believe it or not I could mig weld a "post" up to the surface, then weld a nut and remove- this may not seem intuitive, but it worked! My manifold flange was also warped from the heat, instead of buying a new one, I surface ground the mounting surface and reused. You need to check the surface with a good straight edge, if it's warped bad enough it will not last and will be back to haunt you quickly. I put everything back except the inner fender, Will need to re-tighten after bringing the engine up to temp and it's easier to get at the nuts without the inner fender installed. All in all this was roughly a 6 hr.job for me, including lunch and I saved some money vs. going to the dealer. Hope this helps and good luck! Rick
#109
True enough, the front studs are more difficult! Wasn't my favorite job to do and your sure as hell glad when it's done.Just to finish my story, I ran the truck after it was finished to really warm it up, let it set overnight then tightened the nuts in the morning with the engine cold. I got about 1/2 turn on each of the 8 nuts Reinstalled the liner, tire etc. So far it's been good. Other than the 3-pc. Spark plugs and pass side exhaust manifold the 5.4 isn't too bad, still would rather have a diesel
#110
I just finished my passenger side manifold, 3 broken studs, 2 on the rear most cylinder and one on the first cylinder, bottom. A right angle air drill from harbor freight and set of Dewalt cobalt bits that I shortened and an ez out made quick work of them once the manifold was out. I don't know what dealers charge hear, cost me 115 for the manifold and studs. If anyone needs more detail as to how to get it done let me know, it was surprisingly not that hard.
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Chillywang (07-31-2014)