Jeffbang62

Take off the intake and everything associated with it and the motor comes out like normal. Even the hood can stay on. It takes some juggling around but it will lift out. No need to take off the front end or the body or anything else for that matter. If you have headers I suggest you pull the motor half way out, remove the headers while the motor is in the air, and once reinstalling the new motor you install the headers the same way (Half way in while the motor is in the air). I had to do this on mine with my long tubes. It was a HUGE PITA. I bought a new reman long block for $2800 net after core exchange with a 100K mile or 36 months warranty. Kosiski Motors, Omaha, NE. Google them. Great service too.

Johns fazer

Hi I'm having the same problem removing my 5.4 from a 2006, I am stripping the engine as much as possible but think I will have to remove the radiator but have not got the tool to unclip the transition lines that go in the drivers side of the radiator ? Any ideas ? I bought a nappa set but they would not work also how to unclip the engine mounts thanks

racecrew25

I have done this 3 times so far....without taking the cab off....let me warn you up front, IT'S A FN NITEMARE!!!!
the top 2 bellhousing bolts I used a swivel head ratchet....to get to the trans dipstick tube bolt, remove the pass. side inner fender liner....and, a heads up on the starter...had to torch the heads off the bolts on 2 of the 3....also, it comes out a helluva lot easier than they go in....stupid *** design on motor mounts on Fords part....I'm thinking on the next one (if there is one), probably be a little easier to pull trans(& transfer case) first....just a thought....hope this helps a little, and if ya get stuck on something, contact me

RustyCJ

Had the same issue. Cound not get the lines off. Ended up pulling motor with radiator in place. Its close but will clear.

solpushcart

Let me see if I can find the info for you on that tool. No one sold it. I had to get it online a few years back. Wish now I had bought more to pass around the country.

solpushcart

Here is the place I bought it from. scroll down and find the one that fids your lines. I can't remember the part number for the one I ordered.


http://www.handsontools.com/OTC-6593...t_p_13013.html

ford911

There is nothing that is impossible in taking the engine out. I did not remove the hood but I did unhook the shocks and had some drunk neighbors hold the hood up. I did utilize a leveler from Harbor freight to help get the engine angled. I did lift the engine up then removed the AC and the PS pump. The intake had to come off then I was able to get to the top two bell housing bolts.

IMHO I think the stuff that is behind the intake is just a recipe for major problems. There is a bunch of stuff back there that you cannot see unless the intake is off. Crazy.

It took me about two hours to get the exhaust bolts off. I used heat an impact gun. I was hoping they would break but the did not.

I am going to be re-installing the motor this weekend. I am going to re-install the harmonic balancer on the motor once I get it installed. It was tight coming out because of this.

Carlos Montanez

i am also interested in that pdf. Can you send one to cemontanez77@gmail.com yhanks so much

bkvess1967

Can I get a copy of the PDF?
Thanks in advance.
brian@websoftpc.com

redfishtd

Yes he pulled skirts on wheel wells and he cut bolts on exhaust but left manifolds attached . Those manifolds studs are hard to deal with in place . Stainless studs are recommended replacements.