4WD problem please advise.
#1
4WD problem please advise.
I understand about the motor not engaging the 4HI 4 LO and tapping it with a hammer. I have had to do that in the past. My problem now is suddenly thinking its in 4HI and it not being engaged. The light is on. But in snowy conditions the back end is kicking out and its not behaving like its engaged. I also have had a clunk sound occue in 4 HI and 4 LO which also scared me. Any advice before i take it to my mechanic. Is this going to be very costly and what could it be?
Edit: Have done some more forum searching. I have not heard any grinding what so ever. Could it be that the Solenoid simply is not cutting the vacuum allowing the IWE form engaging and locking the hubs? I know slow vacuum leaks can cause it to grind with partial vacuum but that dosent seem to be the case.
Thanks!!!
Jon
Edit: Have done some more forum searching. I have not heard any grinding what so ever. Could it be that the Solenoid simply is not cutting the vacuum allowing the IWE form engaging and locking the hubs? I know slow vacuum leaks can cause it to grind with partial vacuum but that dosent seem to be the case.
Thanks!!!
Jon
Last edited by jb3nny; 02-12-2016 at 09:10 AM.
#2
help
Thinking of buying one of these. Hope you guys can offer some opinions.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT-C...-/221401601733
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOTORCRAFT-C...-/221401601733
Last edited by jb3nny; 02-12-2016 at 02:53 PM.
#3
Senior Member
If you don't already have the updated version, with that little rain guard on it, then it's not going to hurt.
If you have had to tap the transfer case motor, then that is something I would be looking into. Ford replaced mine, (for what they thought was the issue with my 4wd), for around $300.
If you have had to tap the transfer case motor, then that is something I would be looking into. Ford replaced mine, (for what they thought was the issue with my 4wd), for around $300.
#4
Thanks
Thanks for responding. Last time i drove it home from work i heard another thunk shortly after leaving. Then the 4HI worked fine all the way home. Thankfully i was snowing like a biatch!
Hope it stays working.
Hope it stays working.
#5
yup tones of snow today and its on the fritz can barely get it to move around correctly in my driveway. ordered a new solenoid. Getting to tomorrow and hoping it solves my issues. Replaced Solenoid last night. I still am experiencing the problem. Sometimes it clunks into and out of 4 HI. I am wondering if my IWE hub is frozen with water and needs replacing?
Last edited by jb3nny; 02-19-2016 at 11:14 AM.
#6
Does this makes sense?
So following some troubleshooting threads i have found, would you agree that i may be able to rule out a vacuum issue because.... i have replaced solenoid and it is not making a grinding noise indicating partial or full lose of vacuum engaging the IWE hub partially. It has no problem seemingly of operating in 2WD (Holding vacuum). The problem seems to be flipping into 4hi/lo and i have heard clunks in the rear (i think) of the vehicle when it goes in and out or 4hi (without using the ESOF selector). I do get the 4HI /Lo lights on the dash when i use selector. So could it be shift motor? Have had to tap it in the past.
any input appreciated. I realize you guys are sick of these threads. But i need you!!
I am at the point where i may do the IWE hubs or shift motor myself but troubleshooting trucks isnt my strong point.
Thank you
JB
any input appreciated. I realize you guys are sick of these threads. But i need you!!
I am at the point where i may do the IWE hubs or shift motor myself but troubleshooting trucks isnt my strong point.
Thank you
JB
Last edited by jb3nny; 02-19-2016 at 11:33 AM.
#7
Okay i jacked the car up this morning. With the truck off ( no vacuum) driver side spun with the cv axle. The passenger spun freely (Cv axle didn't spin) with a clicking noise. ( i have watched a mechanic video who states you then need to change the IWE hub). The with the truck on (Vacuum applied) and in 2WD, the driver side STILL is engaged which to me would indicate a lose of vacuum? The passenger side was now disengaged (Vacuum) and also does not click and spin feely. I checked all fuses and relays ( under the hood the relay blocks are solid black not sure if they are good or bad). Also have changed selonoid. I did have the battery tray out to do that job and forgot to check the vacuum line to the reservoir. Do you guys have any suggestions? What does this seem like to you.
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#8
Mark
iTrader: (1)
go barrow a vacuum pump from your local auto zone and troubleshoot properly...
#9
Senior Member
Sounds like the 4X4 Actuator. I had to replace my actuator, it's pretty easy. I was told the best way to test it... Pull the vacuum tubes off both actuators with the sector switch in 4X4 LOW, make a tight turn to the right and then to the left, if both wheels are locked in it will jump and skip... These actuators are known for getting wet and not working. An easy fix.
#10
Thanks for your replies. I appreciate it. Also for the kick in the butt about getting a vacuum gage. So got the gage checked over some lines. I was good at the resevoir as i was afraid it was disconnected it wasnt. Followed the line to the intake all seemed well there. Followed the line down to the passenger side wheel and that looked good. Followed the line best i could over to the driver side where i saw something had chewed the **** out of the line where i assume there was an elbow connector on the vacuum line perhaps where it changes direction from the drivers fender across the front of the truck to the passenger side and also the vent line was chewed in half at that same spot in the driver fender area right before where it curls up and vents to the open. So obviously not good. Looks to have been like that a long time also.
I got some vacuum line (rubber) that seems to fit over snugly and joined the two ends together of both lines just to make them hole again to further test. I got drivers side vacuum at the hub i think it was 20 or even 22. Pretty strong, that is the half shaft that will not disengage what so ever no matter what the ESOF is at. Now over at the passeneger side where it will partially engage ( and click) but also disengage i was getting a very slow 17 on the gage and that took about 12 - 15 secs to get there. Other times i tried it i also barely got 5 psi or whatever it is.
I have read that given this situation its possible that i have a drivers side seal blown at the IWE hub (gone bad) thus not disengaging and leaking out causing low vacuum and partial disengagment on the (good) passenger side hub.
So i need to properly repair the vacuum line(s), I will take recommendation on what where and how on that, at the driver fender and try to replace the IWE hub on that side (driver) and see if it then is corrected and also corrects the vacuum at the hopefully good Hub on the passenger side. Does this make sense?
Also something i didnt understand is the passenger side vacuum line seems to have the the sending vacuum line going down and vent line going up together i presume like normal, but It also has the sending vacuum line for the drivers side going down part way then breaking off towards the front of the truck before crossing over to the drivers side. But also seems to have a line going up from the Hub running parallel with the drivers side and going where??? This confuses me i dont know where it goes what its for.
Anyways thank you and please chime in.
Much appreciated JB
I got some vacuum line (rubber) that seems to fit over snugly and joined the two ends together of both lines just to make them hole again to further test. I got drivers side vacuum at the hub i think it was 20 or even 22. Pretty strong, that is the half shaft that will not disengage what so ever no matter what the ESOF is at. Now over at the passeneger side where it will partially engage ( and click) but also disengage i was getting a very slow 17 on the gage and that took about 12 - 15 secs to get there. Other times i tried it i also barely got 5 psi or whatever it is.
I have read that given this situation its possible that i have a drivers side seal blown at the IWE hub (gone bad) thus not disengaging and leaking out causing low vacuum and partial disengagment on the (good) passenger side hub.
So i need to properly repair the vacuum line(s), I will take recommendation on what where and how on that, at the driver fender and try to replace the IWE hub on that side (driver) and see if it then is corrected and also corrects the vacuum at the hopefully good Hub on the passenger side. Does this make sense?
Also something i didnt understand is the passenger side vacuum line seems to have the the sending vacuum line going down and vent line going up together i presume like normal, but It also has the sending vacuum line for the drivers side going down part way then breaking off towards the front of the truck before crossing over to the drivers side. But also seems to have a line going up from the Hub running parallel with the drivers side and going where??? This confuses me i dont know where it goes what its for.
Anyways thank you and please chime in.
Much appreciated JB
Last edited by jb3nny; 02-21-2016 at 07:22 AM.