sigmanf150

That is the same place I got my rebuild kit from! The Stage one kit with Raybestos frictions.

Rick's 06

Sub'd. I've never done a tranny, so am interested to see your pictures. Thanks for sharing and good luck.

Blown Ford

If you would like the specs on which holes to drill and what size to drill them to make it a performance valve body I will post up pics and details.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

What are the problems listed as "no go's" and "comebacks" this plate solves?

Blown Ford

The stock plate has to crack and leak in order for any of those problems to occur. Mine has a tiny spot, the beginings of a crack. No issues but I want to solve it now.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Did you go for a full rebuild with the addition of the sonnax kit and this Oregon plate?

Blown Ford

I did a full rebuild. I lost OD thanks to Darrin Burch not paying attention when I had him build the trans in 2010. Surprisingly my clutches were in remarkable shape with no indications of slippage. A testament to the strength of the 4R75 trans. My trans was built using stock clutches and parts with the exception of the OD band and some valve body mods. The trans has been down the drag strip over 35 times with drag slicks, plus 60,000 miles of spirited driving and towing. It showed little to no signs of wear.

As for parts I used for this build. Master rebuild kit, a Sonnax Line Pressure Booster Kit (S76507F), and a BORG WARNER 50122 EPC Solenoid, Raybestos OD band Pro Series RPS54010. And before I install it this weekend I will upgrade to the Super Tuff Separator Plate SUP-KO92.

So why did this trans fail?
Darrin stacked the friction plates using the incorrect thickness steels resulting in the metal tabs on the end friction plate being sheared off. Those little metal tabs ended up in my OD band ruing both the band and the mechanical diode drum. (Stacking the plates 6 clutch fwd and 7 clutch direct is normal for a performance build, 5 are used for stock.) You have to use the correct steels though or overall thickness becomes an issue as happened here.

You can see the tabs sheared off the plate here.


In this pic you can see the friction plates and steels stacked with tabs in good shape. You will also notice the arrow pointing at the little spot on the valve body seperator plate. This is the beginning of a tiny crack.



Metal bits in OD band and ruined drum.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

So were your symptoms slipping in overdrive..and that's it? If any?

Yeah that drum looks like a beat up brake rotor. So are you not going with Kevlar for a friction material? I do hear it has some slip tendency..

Are you going it alone on this rebuild?

Blown Ford

Symptoms...haha I should be so lucky. Symptom was pulled out on highway and got up to speed. Truck shifted to OD and there was no OD. Nothing at all. My thought was that the clip for the OD servo snapped which is an issue on these transmissions. I decided instead of pulling valve body to repair I would pull trans and rebuild. 60k miles of driving like I stole it plus 35 plus quarter mile runs on drag slicks I figured it would need it. Good thing I did as the clip and OD servo were just fine.

No Kevlar clutches here. Stock clutches as they bite like nothing else. The Kevlar clutches do have some slippage. RobertP from the other forum you and I are on did the rebuild with me last Friday night. He has these trans bolted behind 730hp drag cars so I knew he would get me the best stuff. We built it just like he builds his own. It was surprisingly easy.

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Wow! RobertP sure knows his stuff, and there's no doubt he's the man to get great stuff from too!

That's good to hear about the clutches, I was on the fence with Kevlar, until you just confirmed that it does cause slip. Gonna stay stock on my clutch plates now too.. No Kevlar on the OD band either?

I'm hoping to rebuild my own when the time comes. How much did you end up spending on parts for the project? Any tools I should consider grabbing for it? Think I should stick with the stock 2800 stall on a new converter? I do Mostly street, hauling and towing with truck.
I'm not in "need" of any work, but I do want stay ahead of the curve for when my tranny does inevitably cry uncle..

So hows the difference now with the shifting? Is she noticeably hooking up quicker, and shifting faster?