Topic Sponsor
2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

4.6 2V Spark Plugs

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-13-2015, 04:07 PM
  #1  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bossgame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 366
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default 4.6 2V Spark Plugs

2007 F150 4.6 2V RCSB 4x4 80k miles

Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.

I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.

I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?

Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)

COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?

I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
Old 03-13-2015, 04:17 PM
  #2  
MGD
former member
 
MGD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,092
Received 856 Likes on 613 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Bossgame
2007 F150 4.6 2V RCSB 4x4 80k miles

Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.

I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.

I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?

Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)

COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?

I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
Hi.

Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated.

Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here:

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns.

As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric.


Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's.

Good luck!

Last edited by MGD; 03-13-2015 at 04:21 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by MGD:
Bossgame (03-13-2015), glbear (03-13-2015)
Old 03-13-2015, 06:45 PM
  #3  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bossgame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 366
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MGD
Hi. Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated. Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here: http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns. As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric. Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's. Good luck!
Just the man I wanted to hear from! Thank you for your help. Gonna see what I can't do to maybe change out for those Denso's. Thank you again. I'll let you know how it goes.
Old 03-13-2015, 08:42 PM
  #4  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jshillin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 551
Received 52 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

I just changed mine a couple months ago. It really wasn't horrible, but I did use a variety of 3/8" and 1/4" extensions, universals, etc to make it easier. As long as you have a good assortment of tools you'll be fine. Having a magnetic swivel plug socket helps too. I also used Motorcraft SP-493 that I picked up for like $28 from Advance Auto. Make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the plugs also!
The following users liked this post:
Bossgame (03-13-2015)
Old 03-13-2015, 11:23 PM
  #5  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bossgame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 366
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by jshillin
I just changed mine a couple months ago. It really wasn't horrible, but I did use a variety of 3/8" and 1/4" extensions, universals, etc to make it easier. As long as you have a good assortment of tools you'll be fine. Having a magnetic swivel plug socket helps too. I also used Motorcraft SP-493 that I picked up for like $28 from Advance Auto. Make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the plugs also!
Ya I'm expecting to run into some issues getting in there. I have a pretty good assortment of extensions and sockets. I'm going to be using a 1/2" torque wrench with a 1/2" - 3/8" fitting. It goes from 20-150 ft/lbs. What did you torque yours down to? Any anti seize? How are the plugs performance?
Old 03-14-2015, 08:22 AM
  #6  
MGD
former member
 
MGD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,092
Received 856 Likes on 613 Posts

Default

G'Mornin' thar, Boss;

Here's a couple good reads - to help ye with ye task:

http://mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ange-pics.html

Best o' luck!

MGD

Last edited by MGD; 03-14-2015 at 01:28 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Bossgame (03-14-2015)
Old 03-14-2015, 10:09 AM
  #7  
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
 
jshillin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: PA
Posts: 551
Received 52 Likes on 50 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bossgame
Ya I'm expecting to run into some issues getting in there. I have a pretty good assortment of extensions and sockets. I'm going to be using a 1/2" torque wrench with a 1/2" - 3/8" fitting. It goes from 20-150 ft/lbs. What did you torque yours down to? Any anti seize? How are the plugs performance?
Installed the plugs dry and torqued them to 28 ft/lbs. I changed the plugs as soon as I got the truck at 95k miles and it definitely smoothed out the idle and it felt more responsive. I have put a couple thousand miles on the truck since I changed them and did gain back about 2 mpg. I will say that I changed the Fuel Filter at the same time too. If you haven't done that yet, I would put it on your list.
The following users liked this post:
Bossgame (03-14-2015)
Old 03-14-2015, 07:08 PM
  #8  
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Bossgame's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Posts: 366
Received 13 Likes on 12 Posts
Default

Thank you for the help here MGD and jshillin. Gonna be a couple weeks before I get it done but I'll put any more questions I may have back in here.
Old 03-14-2015, 07:24 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
08silverbullet's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Pearland, TX
Posts: 1,682
Received 78 Likes on 77 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MGD

Hi.

Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated.

Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here:

http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm

These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns.

As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric.

Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's.

Good luck!
Are the denso plugs a colder plug? Better for 93 octane? Mine is about due for a plug change that's why I ask
Old 03-14-2015, 08:06 PM
  #10  
MGD
former member
 
MGD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,092
Received 856 Likes on 613 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 08silverbullet
Are the denso plugs a colder plug? Better for 93 octane? Mine is about due for a plug change that's why I ask
No - they are standard heat range - suitable for all normal usage and octanes (save forced induction). You don't need colder plugs just to run 93, with a tune, on a stock engine.

Colder heat ranges are IT-20 and IT-22 - for built/ high-perf /boosted applications.

http://densoiridium.com/sparkplugspecs.php

Have at it.

MGD

Last edited by MGD; 03-14-2015 at 08:08 PM.



Quick Reply: 4.6 2V Spark Plugs



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:40 AM.