4.6 2V Spark Plugs
#1
4.6 2V Spark Plugs
2007 F150 4.6 2V RCSB 4x4 80k miles
Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.
I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.
I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?
Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)
COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?
I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.
I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.
I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?
Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)
COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?
I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
#2
2007 F150 4.6 2V RCSB 4x4 80k miles
Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.
I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.
I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?
Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)
COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?
I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
Time for a plug change and I have done a lot of searching on it, but I have some questions that I have not been able to find straight answers for. I have found answers, but all conflicting. I know what I need as far as plugs and tools go.
I bought 8 Motorcraft SP-493 plugs, and I have an assortment of extensions, swivels, and sockets for accessing around fuel rails, and cylinders 4 and 8 COP's and plugs.
I know the original ford torque suggestion for these plugs is 11 ft/lbs. However I have read since then it has been suggested to go up to 28 ft/lbs. I know the issues that the 2 valves have are different, and my main concern is the plug backing out or blowing out of the head taking the threads with it. (this happened to me when I test drive an 04. Didn't buy it) I want to be really careful because I know these are aluminum heads and with too much torque can damage the heads and too little has the potential to also.
What is best torque number?
Now that leads me to is that torque number dry? Or with nickel anti-seize? Do you suggest I even use ant-seize on these plugs? (I know they don't have the breakage issues the 3 valves do)
COP's-
I plan on buying new boots and using dielectric grease properly where needed per MGD's directions I found researching. Is that all I need to do for COP's? Any other recommendations?
I'm not having a miss or anything, just like to stay on top of maintenance. And now that my truck sits all week since I now have a company car, I want it to be in tip top shape for when I drive it on the weekends. Thanks for reading and all help is greatly appreciated.
Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated.
Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here:
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns.
As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric.
Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's.
Good luck!
Last edited by MGD; 03-13-2015 at 04:21 PM.
#3
Hi. Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated. Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here: http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns. As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric. Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's. Good luck!
#4
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
I just changed mine a couple months ago. It really wasn't horrible, but I did use a variety of 3/8" and 1/4" extensions, universals, etc to make it easier. As long as you have a good assortment of tools you'll be fine. Having a magnetic swivel plug socket helps too. I also used Motorcraft SP-493 that I picked up for like $28 from Advance Auto. Make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the plugs also!
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Bossgame (03-13-2015)
#5
I just changed mine a couple months ago. It really wasn't horrible, but I did use a variety of 3/8" and 1/4" extensions, universals, etc to make it easier. As long as you have a good assortment of tools you'll be fine. Having a magnetic swivel plug socket helps too. I also used Motorcraft SP-493 that I picked up for like $28 from Advance Auto. Make sure you have a 3/8" torque wrench to tighten the plugs also!
#6
G'Mornin' thar, Boss;
Here's a couple good reads - to help ye with ye task:
http://mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ange-pics.html
Best o' luck!
MGD
Here's a couple good reads - to help ye with ye task:
http://mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html
http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ange-pics.html
Best o' luck!
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 03-14-2015 at 01:28 PM.
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Bossgame (03-14-2015)
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Ya I'm expecting to run into some issues getting in there. I have a pretty good assortment of extensions and sockets. I'm going to be using a 1/2" torque wrench with a 1/2" - 3/8" fitting. It goes from 20-150 ft/lbs. What did you torque yours down to? Any anti seize? How are the plugs performance?
The following users liked this post:
Bossgame (03-14-2015)
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#9
Senior Member
Hi.
Yessir - 28 ft/lbs DRY - NO a/s. Those plugs are nickel-plated.
Please read FAQ's # 51 & 52 here:
http://www.blownoutsparkplug.com/faqs.htm
These guys already did the testing - this should alleviate your concerns.
As for the COPs - if they are healthy ( and from what you stated they appear to be), yer good to go with the dielectric.
Side note: if there is a next time, consider Denso Iridium IT-16's for yer engine - these are the King Snake of spark plugs for the 2V's.
Good luck!
#10
Colder heat ranges are IT-20 and IT-22 - for built/ high-perf /boosted applications.
http://densoiridium.com/sparkplugspecs.php
Have at it.
MGD
Last edited by MGD; 03-14-2015 at 08:08 PM.