2008 Limited Exhaust Manifold Replacement
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CPT150 (08-25-2013)
#12
Man, I had the groosum exhaust tick from the passenger side. Since i was doing all this work though, I'm getting more performance. I put long tubes in with stainless studs and nuts. My total swap for both sides was just under 5 hours. I didnt remove any wheels or slide the starter. I wormed mine out of the bottom and put my headers on from bottom up. The driver side is twice as easy and has more room btw.
#14
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
You got lucky, most have have to extract a couple broken studs during this swap, thats what really adds alot of difficulty, there is not much room to work an extractor in there. When I swapped mine the front bottom stud was broken (one leak source) and I broke two more taking the manifold off. Getting those out was a major pain in the ***, took the better part of a day just to get them out.
#18
Devil's advocate
Hate to be off topic here but I just have to get one thing straight. You took it to a so-called mechanic and told them do whatever it takes and however much money to fix it and they refuse?? Some mechanic. Good job doing it yourself though!
#19
Hey Melrose99, what kozal01 said. If any of the broken stud is exposed you should soak the exposed threads down with PB Blaster and hope it migrates into the head. As kozal01 said, you can try to strike it with a hammer to break it loose and then lock on it with vice grips. If you cant get a grip on it you might try a stud extractor which is a device that locks on to the atud with a cam action, i.e., the harder you turn-the tighter it grips.
Another option to consider if the stud is exposed is to weld a nut on the stud that is slightly larger than the stud size. Slide the oversized nut on the stud and weld it on. The super heat sometimes will break the bond in the head and you will be able to turn it out with the nut.
If that does not work you will need to drill it out, probably with a short right-angle drill motor and stubby drill bits. Then use an easyout to get the remnant of the stud out. Then chase the cavity with a tap.
And if all of that fails it probably means that you will need to remove the head from the motor and take it to a good machine shop.
Another option to consider if the stud is exposed is to weld a nut on the stud that is slightly larger than the stud size. Slide the oversized nut on the stud and weld it on. The super heat sometimes will break the bond in the head and you will be able to turn it out with the nut.
If that does not work you will need to drill it out, probably with a short right-angle drill motor and stubby drill bits. Then use an easyout to get the remnant of the stud out. Then chase the cavity with a tap.
And if all of that fails it probably means that you will need to remove the head from the motor and take it to a good machine shop.
Last edited by F150Limited; 08-26-2013 at 06:11 PM.
The following users liked this post:
chayes627 (08-27-2013)
#20
Hey, JP2085. Yes, the mechanic wimped out, and lost my future business as a result. I am not afraid of any mechanical job, but I don't have the time to do everything like I used to.