Beeman1221

I have both clips off, and all the guides and timing components are correct. I'll show you a video. One person said because the tensioners run off of oil pressure they won't be as tight as they should be. They only will be when I put oil in the motor and turn it. Does that sound about right

Beeman1221

Try this one instead

vintageman

That is true, the tensioners do run off of oil pressure. It looks to me like there is no valve/piston contact when you rotate the crank. If you put everything back in and it all lined up, I think that you may be ready for oil and install. I had oil in mine when I did the work, so when I rotated mine by hand, it may have provided enough pressure for that tensioner guide to not click like that. I do remember that the when I originally had the chains off by one link, I had a little slack in the chains, when I adjusted the phaser and cam correct to get the chain links right, I really had very little slack and when I pulled the retaining clip on the tensioners, it went very tight. That's when I rotated. Just remember that when you go to start the engine, hold the gas pedal down to the floor and crank for about 15 seconds to build oil pressure. Do this 3 or 4 times before you start the engine. This will build the oil pressure in the tensioners and prevent any kind of dry start.

Beeman1221

Can I build up enough oil pressure just by turning the motor myself? With oil in it of course. I don't want to put the motor in and figure out I have to take the timing cover back off. That would be a pain. And I really don't want to take the cover off now, because I have to rent the $200 tool to get the harmonic balancer off. And get a new oil pan gasket because there is gasket maker all over it now. Think it's possible to build pressure myself, so I won't have to do all that nonsense

vintageman

Really doubt that you can build any real pressure by hand all I can say on that is that my truck had been off for about 3 days so there was no oil pressure and I did turn the crank prior to putting the cover back on a few times to check for binding. The chains were both tight though prior to turning the crank and stayed tight while rotating the crank. Do you remember if you had slack in the chains before you put the cover on. At this point with the cover on and you are sure that everything is in correct and torqued down, your only choice is either take the cover off and re-verify everything or put the motor in and take a chance that you may have it right. You are right, I wouldn't want to put it back in to have to take it back out, A couple gaskets may be worth it.
Good luck
Tom

Beeman1221

Prior to putting the timing cover on, the chains had no slack, they were not loose whatsoever. Before I took the pins out of the tensioners there was slack but not after. Everything was torqued, checked three times, and then I put the cover on. Have you ever heard of this happening before?

vintageman

I don't think that I have seen that before, its not beyond it happening normally until oil pressure is built and pushes on the tensioner guide more though. If there was no slack in the chains and all links lined up right and everything is torqued down, then I would say you are good to try it then. Now you are at the point that you need to give it a try and put the motor in. Good luck and keep us informed on how it goes.
Tom

vintageman

Any updates on this? Kinda anxious to hear how it is going.

Beeman1221

Sunday Morning it's going back in. Then over the span of the week I will put the bits and pieces back on it. Hopefully Friday or Saturday I will be able to give it a try!

Beeman1221

So today I put the motor in, or attempted to lol. I got the motor in the engine bay, but I'm having A LOT of trouble getting the torque converter bolts into the flywheel. The back of the motor and the bell housing line up great, but the torque converter and flywheel do not. Can you look at the one picture and tell me if I have it on backwards?