toshortofnam

Yeah it's still rough. It doesn't seem as bad but it's still bad. Great. Any idea why the battery light is on? Any change that the alternator could be making it run like this?

MHOWELL34

If i were you, go get autozone to test your battery, their tester will tell them if its the battery or not fairly quickly

toshortofnam

Alright I'll do that. Do you think a battery could make my truck act up like this and bring up the codes p0022 and p0345? Or could a bad alternator do it?

MHOWELL34

po345 is a bad timing code... p0022 is the cam position sensor

PayAttention

Hello there; I am not being rude in any way sir but the questions you kept asking were answered by the people in the post that they typed out. As far as stalling and such forth yes it is possible; they did state that a bad battery or such could cause problems with your truck.

Now I had this exact problem last year, it started out just like yours. It stalled after it got hot, ran awesome when it was first cranked. I went through the following parts all new and all wasted money IN A WAY. Also they went in this order.

-All new coil packs
-New VCT's &Cam Sensors or whatever is on the front of the engine on the right, top front on passenger
-new battery as I had a problem with battery mechanic thought
-not battery lets replace my altenator
-not altenator lets replace your timing chains, cam pahsers, timing tensioners etc etc etc lets just take all your money
-other little petty bullcrap like "wires that are broken this must be it" says the mechanic

(this is between 4 mechanics that all agreed upon each other it seems)

BUT WAIT it works my truck runs great! For a total of 3 days then it starts being sluggish again but does not stall
A month later it starts stalling again so I do research and find out that those cam sensor's that i talked about above where the drivers side one is on the front of the motor and the passenger side is on top of the engine at the front (if that explains where they are) I unplugged the one on the passenger side and although I have lost a little power and quite a bit of pep my truck no longer tries to die. It runs "smooth" but not super smooth, but it does not stall. Now I am stuck at a cross road and can not figure out what to do. I HOPE that this is not your problem my friend.... because I am lost of ideas and money I want to spend....

toshortofnam

Oh man. Any idea why it's doing this again?

PayAttention

I don't even want to begin to guess it spend money to find out; my truck runs "good" without stalling with a loss of power and a loss of peppiness as long as I don't have the passenger side bank connector plugged into the sensor. Wish I could help you more just make sure whatever a mechanic tells ylu that they are 100% for sure it will fix it and like someone else said find a mechanic that is not the dealership they will rape you and slap you on the *** on the way out and you will by then have no power to say no and you'll just turn around and have to come back again to recieved the same treatment

toshortofnam

I won't go to them. It's hard to find someone who can work on these motors effectively. This is frustrating. From my understanding if your truck is fine with less power when the sensor is unplugged, it means that side jumped out of timing. What do you think? If I unplug my drivers side and it runs fine without it just less power.. Ugh. I wonder if it would be safe to drive lol

PayAttention

It is a possibility but considering from the day that my truck got fixed with new can phasers and etc and it breaks the night of me Gettig it (the stalling) I just don't see how it jumped time that fast
I don't understand how it would jump time in half a day

As far as the ticking that's what took a month for the sound to come back

toshortofnam

The ticking doesn't bother me. Well from my understanding people say when you unplug the sensor and it runs better that means that that side jumped. I know it sounds crazy. Maybe that mistimed it?