2006 ford f150 PCM problem?
03-23-2015, 12:25 PM
#11
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@toshortofnam,
I believe @vintageman is "dead on point" in all he recommended
. I would not be so quick to suspect the PCM, but first go where we have some indication of a problem. Since you have a Battery Light on, take his suggestion and have the alternator and battery (and ground connections) checked out. [[ as far as the dashboard voltage gauge reading mid way ----- poo poo that silly little thing and use a volt-ohm meter.
THEN. Get the DTC's. Troubleshooting these machines without them is exactly like playing "pin the tail on the donkey". Or another way of saying it is "throwing parts at it". The latter works better but gets very expensive.
If you do have a code 0345 as you seem to recall, that is a close relative of P0022 as both indicate valve timing is not what the PCM is trying to establish. (Specifically it's set during cranking) It doesn't necessarily mean a bad VTC Solenoid or CPS. Possible causes include:
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Variable Cam Timing (VTC) Solenoid
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
The last three caught my attention! Read more at:http://engine-codes.com/p0345_ford.html
If your battery / alternator checks out, since you have changed cam position sensors, I would clean all connectors with some good electrical spray - even the large connectors on the PCM, and make sure there is no chaffing on the wiring harness.
Good Luck
I believe @vintageman is "dead on point" in all he recommended
. I would not be so quick to suspect the PCM, but first go where we have some indication of a problem. Since you have a Battery Light on, take his suggestion and have the alternator and battery (and ground connections) checked out. [[ as far as the dashboard voltage gauge reading mid way ----- poo poo that silly little thing and use a volt-ohm meter.THEN. Get the DTC's. Troubleshooting these machines without them is exactly like playing "pin the tail on the donkey". Or another way of saying it is "throwing parts at it". The latter works better but gets very expensive.
If you do have a code 0345 as you seem to recall, that is a close relative of P0022 as both indicate valve timing is not what the PCM is trying to establish. (Specifically it's set during cranking) It doesn't necessarily mean a bad VTC Solenoid or CPS. Possible causes include:
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Variable Cam Timing (VTC) Solenoid
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery
The last three caught my attention! Read more at:http://engine-codes.com/p0345_ford.html
If your battery / alternator checks out, since you have changed cam position sensors, I would clean all connectors with some good electrical spray - even the large connectors on the PCM, and make sure there is no chaffing on the wiring harness.
Good Luck
03-24-2015, 01:06 AM
#13
Senior Member
I really hate to ruin your day brother... but... it has nothing to do with anything electrical except for blocking its own circuit
PO345 is jumped timing, verified by me, Means 1 side of your engine is not firing because it is out of time, the sensor itself is not allowing it to fire.
Cam Position Sensor Test, Bank 1 is Passenger Side, Bank 2 is Driver side
1: Unplug Both Sensors, Crank Engine, Truck should start and idle rough as you described
2: Plug in passenger side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
3: Unplug Passenger Side sensor, Plug in Driver side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
4: If Truck starts with both sensors, try a new sensor, but i can almost guarantee thats not gonna help
You may want to start lookin at my guide for parts
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-guid...lation-294718/
PO345 is jumped timing, verified by me, Means 1 side of your engine is not firing because it is out of time, the sensor itself is not allowing it to fire.
Cam Position Sensor Test, Bank 1 is Passenger Side, Bank 2 is Driver side
1: Unplug Both Sensors, Crank Engine, Truck should start and idle rough as you described
2: Plug in passenger side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
3: Unplug Passenger Side sensor, Plug in Driver side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
4: If Truck starts with both sensors, try a new sensor, but i can almost guarantee thats not gonna help
You may want to start lookin at my guide for parts
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-guid...lation-294718/
Last edited by MHOWELL34; 03-24-2015 at 01:17 AM.
03-24-2015, 10:24 AM
#14
LightningRod
RE: 2006 ford f150 PCM problem?
[MENTION=181680]MHOWELL34[/MENTION] diagnostics suggestions are very good - and he may be absolutely right. (although we hope not).
Always in favor of no cost diagnostic procedures such as he suggested. SOME RECENT codes would still be most helpful - since my impression is we are working with your "recollection" only. (My 'recollection' certainly ain't good enough to go tearing into my engine LOL). But [MENTION=181680]MHOWELL34[/MENTION]'s suggestion costs nothing to try - and sounds to be based on his personal experience of which I have none. But we still have the issue with your battery question? Eliminate one at a time if possible.
I don't know if the Valve timing Solenoid is capable of correcting timing enough to even idle at all with a chain one full tooth off, but I have NO SUCH experience. Also, I would HOPE a mechanical failure of that magnitude would throw some additional codes than the ones I read about a P0345 or P0022 only.
Yes, I would disconnect the battery when jockeying with any electrical stuff much. This will also perform a BATTERY DISCONNECT RESET on the ECU which will reset PCM parameter adjustments to factory defaults. That could result in different codes while it is relearning. And unplugging and cleaning the PCM connectors (with care) is fine. [[did I mention using some dielectric grease is a good idea to keep connections moisture free?]] I would say a bad electrical connection there (as with many other places) could cause a wide range of problems including rough idle.
As always - good luck.
Always in favor of no cost diagnostic procedures such as he suggested. SOME RECENT codes would still be most helpful - since my impression is we are working with your "recollection" only. (My 'recollection' certainly ain't good enough to go tearing into my engine LOL). But [MENTION=181680]MHOWELL34[/MENTION]'s suggestion costs nothing to try - and sounds to be based on his personal experience of which I have none. But we still have the issue with your battery question? Eliminate one at a time if possible.
I don't know if the Valve timing Solenoid is capable of correcting timing enough to even idle at all with a chain one full tooth off, but I have NO SUCH experience. Also, I would HOPE a mechanical failure of that magnitude would throw some additional codes than the ones I read about a P0345 or P0022 only.
Yes, I would disconnect the battery when jockeying with any electrical stuff much. This will also perform a BATTERY DISCONNECT RESET on the ECU which will reset PCM parameter adjustments to factory defaults. That could result in different codes while it is relearning. And unplugging and cleaning the PCM connectors (with care) is fine. [[did I mention using some dielectric grease is a good idea to keep connections moisture free?]] I would say a bad electrical connection there (as with many other places) could cause a wide range of problems including rough idle.
As always - good luck.
03-24-2015, 05:31 PM
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I really hate to ruin your day brother... but... it has nothing to do with anything electrical except for blocking its own circuit
PO345 is jumped timing, verified by me, Means 1 side of your engine is not firing because it is out of time, the sensor itself is not allowing it to fire.
Cam Position Sensor Test, Bank 1 is Passenger Side, Bank 2 is Driver side
1: Unplug Both Sensors, Crank Engine, Truck should start and idle rough as you described
2: Plug in passenger side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
3: Unplug Passenger Side sensor, Plug in Driver side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
4: If Truck starts with both sensors, try a new sensor, but i can almost guarantee thats not gonna help
You may want to start lookin at my guide for parts
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-guid...lation-294718/
PO345 is jumped timing, verified by me, Means 1 side of your engine is not firing because it is out of time, the sensor itself is not allowing it to fire.
Cam Position Sensor Test, Bank 1 is Passenger Side, Bank 2 is Driver side
1: Unplug Both Sensors, Crank Engine, Truck should start and idle rough as you described
2: Plug in passenger side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
3: Unplug Passenger Side sensor, Plug in Driver side sensor, Try to start Truck, If cranks that side is good, If it does not, that side is possibly jumped
4: If Truck starts with both sensors, try a new sensor, but i can almost guarantee thats not gonna help
You may want to start lookin at my guide for parts
http://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-guid...lation-294718/
03-24-2015, 06:12 PM
#16
Senior Member
So I would need to replace the phasers or? I'm going to take it for a ford service center Thursday morning. Hopefully my warranty will cover whatever needs fixed. I would like to have a good idea of what the problem could be so I could inform them. So, the phasers might be bad or? Can you tell me your experience so I can compare our two? Please? Thank you
I told you what sensors to play with..... If u don't try you won't know. Get ready to be raped if you wanna leave it with ford....
If the phasers fail the rest of the stuff was starved as well or just simply has the same amount of wear... Get New timing set and phasers all The way and put 5w 30 in it n call it a day... U gotta mess with the sensors...... Using the method I told u. That's the easiest first step...
03-24-2015, 07:09 PM
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I told you what sensors to play with..... If u don't try you won't know. Get ready to be raped if you wanna leave it with ford....
If the phasers fail the rest of the stuff was starved as well or just simply has the same amount of wear... Get New timing set and phasers all The way and put 5w 30 in it n call it a day... U gotta mess with the sensors...... Using the method I told u. That's the easiest first step...
If the phasers fail the rest of the stuff was starved as well or just simply has the same amount of wear... Get New timing set and phasers all The way and put 5w 30 in it n call it a day... U gotta mess with the sensors...... Using the method I told u. That's the easiest first step...
Last edited by toshortofnam; 03-24-2015 at 07:11 PM.
03-24-2015, 07:18 PM
#18
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It's all good, just hate seeing good hard earned money go to waste because ford like to say "well we broke this while we were in there because you had to, blah blah". Then take a week to do a 2 day job with the one underpaid man doing it..
But i hate to send you off into the deep end before you mess with those sensors, but you said it runs like crap so it pretty much already has sold me
But i hate to send you off into the deep end before you mess with those sensors, but you said it runs like crap so it pretty much already has sold me
03-24-2015, 08:10 PM
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It's all good, just hate seeing good hard earned money go to waste because ford like to say "well we broke this while we were in there because you had to, blah blah". Then take a week to do a 2 day job with the one underpaid man doing it..
But i hate to send you off into the deep end before you mess with those sensors, but you said it runs like crap so it pretty much already has sold me
But i hate to send you off into the deep end before you mess with those sensors, but you said it runs like crap so it pretty much already has sold me