toshortofnam

Hello all. I have a 2006 ford f150 5.4 triton 4x4. It's been running pretty rough. The idle is a little rough and gets worse. My truck will stall if I start to slow down unless I have one foot on the brake and the other giving it a little bit of gas, and so it's running rough at that point but it smooths out a little bit when I'm moving. When it stalls it'll throw a bunch of codes (I can't remember them and I don't have a scanner on hand). I've tested many things and everything seems fine. My alternator is fine and so is my battery, but my battery light will light up on my dash. The gauge is a little above half also. I'm pretty sure both parts are new (bought the truck from a dealership, ugh). So I have some questions. Could the PCM be out of whack? Like, could it be so out that it's making the alternator and battery act up enough to make my truck stall at lights, run rough, and throw "fake" codes?

Should I get the PCM reflashed at a ford dealership? Would that do anything?

jordanb8812

The codes would help a bunch, do you remember them at all? Maybe go to the parts store and have them read, some places will print the codes it for you.

toshortofnam

I remember some. P0022, and P0345. Both solenoids have and sensors have been replaced. I just find it weird that my battery light comes on even though they're both fine. I haven't been able to check what other codes it has sense I changed them. The check engine light will come on when it stalls but it'll go off when I restart the truck and go. The truck runs rough at that point. Could a faulty pcm cause the battery light issue and will it throw false codes?

vintageman

Sounds to me that you are set on the PCM being the issue. How long have you owned it? Have you checked the cable connections at your battery for cleanliness and tight? The P0022 is a Bank 2 (drivers side) timing is retarded, so possibly suspect a phaser or VCT solenoid issue there. P0345 I think is a misfire on bank 1 plug 4 but you may have to reconfirm that one. Has the plugs been changed, how many miles on the truck or since the plugs were changed and what kind of plugs? Also, if the battery has been disconnected recently, was the relearn process done? I would probably just disconnect the battery for about 30 minutes and then just leave the headlight switch turned on to drain the residual current that the pcm may have left over. After 30 minutes, reconnect the battery and go through the re-learn process. You can find that process in the "stop, read here first" thread on the first page of this forum. After the battery relearn process, drive it for a while, (I usually do stall 1 or 2 times afterwards bc its still learning my driving habits over the next couple days) then take it to Autozone or somewhere and have them check for codes. Good luck.

toshortofnam

I have checked the wires for cleanness and tightness. There are only 76k miles on the truck and from what I know they were changed before. I'm not positive. My mechanic said he thinks they're fine so I don't know. I don't know if he done the relearn or not. Could that cause the rough idle/driving and the stalling? And the battery light coming on? The battery light coming on is why I feel like the pcm could be out of whack. I could be wrong.

vintageman

If u havent had your battery an alternator checked, you need to do that. Bad batterys cause a lot of gremlins on these trucks.

toshortofnam

I'll do that today or tomorrow. I believe autozone can check the battery. The gauge shows it a little above halfway. Can a bad battery make a truck stall out like that? Or can it make the pcm act up?

toshortofnam

Also, could a faulty alternator make my truck run very bad when it gets warm? Like stall when stopping and rough idle and such? My lights don't dim though and everything seems to work. Like I can restart it easy

toshortofnam

Anyone?

F150Torqued

[MENTION=205455]toshortofnam[/MENTION],


I believe [MENTION=185959]vintageman[/MENTION] is "dead on point" in all he recommended . I would not be so quick to suspect the PCM, but first go where we have some indication of a problem. Since you have a Battery Light on, take his suggestion and have the alternator and battery (and ground connections) checked out. [[ as far as the dashboard voltage gauge reading mid way ----- poo poo that silly little thing and use a volt-ohm meter.

THEN. Get the DTC's. Troubleshooting these machines without them is exactly like playing "pin the tail on the donkey". Or another way of saying it is "throwing parts at it". The latter works better but gets very expensive.
If you do have a code 0345 as you seem to recall, that is a close relative of P0022 as both indicate valve timing is not what the PCM is trying to establish. (Specifically it's set during cranking) It doesn't necessarily mean a bad VTC Solenoid or CPS. Possible causes include:
- Faulty Camshaft Position Sensor
- Camshaft Position Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Camshaft Position Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
- Variable Cam Timing (VTC) Solenoid
- Faulty starter motor
- Starting system circuit
- Dead (Weak) battery

The last three caught my attention! Read more at:http://engine-codes.com/p0345_ford.html

If your battery / alternator checks out, since you have changed cam position sensors, I would clean all connectors with some good electrical spray - even the large connectors on the PCM, and make sure there is no chaffing on the wiring harness.


Good Luck