2006 Brake Rotors Warped
03-18-2009, 09:34 PM
#21
The rotors on these trucks are made by bosch and they are a POS. The front rotors you may be able to cut once provided the pad material hasn't eaten them before you get to it (that's why they produce so much brake dust). The rear rotors you typically cannot cut because they are so thin they will overheat and warp. I drive in stop and go traffic and occassionally haul a 9Klb boat around and had to replace my rotors at 24K. Although they still had plenty of pad left, the pads had eaten up so much of the rotor that cutting them would have left them to thin thus ersulting in warping. I replaced the rotors with dimpled and slotted rotors from brakeperformace.com, now have 50K on the truck and they are in the are in perfect condition, stopping distance is better, and the brake dust has been significantly reduced. The rotors are a bit more expensive than OEM, however they have a lifetime warrant against warping.
03-18-2009, 11:05 PM
#22
Senior Member
Great info
The rotors on these trucks are made by bosch and they are a POS. The front rotors you may be able to cut once provided the pad material hasn't eaten them before you get to it (that's why they produce so much brake dust). The rear rotors you typically cannot cut because they are so thin they will overheat and warp. I drive in stop and go traffic and occassionally haul a 9Klb boat around and had to replace my rotors at 24K. Although they still had plenty of pad left, the pads had eaten up so much of the rotor that cutting them would have left them to thin thus ersulting in warping. I replaced the rotors with dimpled and slotted rotors from brakeperformace.com, now have 50K on the truck and they are in the are in perfect condition, stopping distance is better, and the brake dust has been significantly reduced. The rotors are a bit more expensive than OEM, however they have a lifetime warrant against warping.
I have put 35's on my truck with a lift. I need better stopping. I expect to wear my pads faster and to warp my rotors sooner. I also drive up and down this 3 mile hill every day.
Do you know what might be a good caliper and rotor direction - for over sized brakes .
On the link you posted (brakeperformace.com)it looks like the rotors offered are pretty nice
03-18-2009, 11:37 PM
#23
Yes, I do.
You are getting warm.
And you are going to sit there, tell me there are over 100,000,000 cars in the USA alone is for argument sake that they too have portions on the discs. Wait, it gets better.
And that will stop the warp on a rotor is a huge variable all those or most of those say some of those have a warp going, but to say that amount of brake dust warps a rotor, I am going to buy some brake cutting equipment and clean up that part of the market that I am going to be rich and
on rotor dust. 
Yes, now do you understand brake dust does not make a disc warp or am I about to make the chaos look like kids play
If you are going to give out that kind of information as "BRAKE DUST WARPS DISCS" you need to sell that to me one more time another way is I will lay bricks over your theory you better explain yourself in exacting fact after fact is I have never heard such a theory of dust in the wind is a song. OK, that is a fact, and I agree.
Dust in the wind is I need a dial indicator times 100,000,000 discs times 4 all around.
You are getting warm.
And you are going to sit there, tell me there are over 100,000,000 cars in the USA alone is for argument sake that they too have portions on the discs. Wait, it gets better.
And that will stop the warp on a rotor is a huge variable all those or most of those say some of those have a warp going, but to say that amount of brake dust warps a rotor, I am going to buy some brake cutting equipment and clean up that part of the market that I am going to be rich and
on rotor dust. Yes, now do you understand brake dust does not make a disc warp or am I about to make the chaos look like kids play
If you are going to give out that kind of information as "BRAKE DUST WARPS DISCS" you need to sell that to me one more time another way is I will lay bricks over your theory you better explain yourself in exacting fact after fact is I have never heard such a theory of dust in the wind is a song. OK, that is a fact, and I agree.
Dust in the wind is I need a dial indicator times 100,000,000 discs times 4 all around.
Below is a section taken from a Toyota maintenance guide. Understand that brake pad material gets embedded in rotors unevenly. This can be measured with a caliper. Calipers measure .0005 without a problem, material buildups can cause runout. I am an Senior Mechanical Engineer, I deal with tolerance stack ups for a living. Unless you understand how runout affects the balance of rotating objects, its probably not worth debating this topic. Rust, corrosion, brake pad material is material buildup which cause runout, parallelism and flatness problems. "Thickness Variation" is the key word.
BRAKE VIBRATION AND/OR PULSATION Page 3 of 6
There are two factors which cause excessive rotor thickness variation:
A. ROTOR RUNOUT
– Rotor runout can be caused by poor mating of flanges between the hub and rotor when
assembled as a unit. Manufacturing tolerance stack–up of the rotor and hub may also
cause excessive rotor assembly runout (See Figure 4 below).
– If there is rotor runout, a portion of the rotor comes into contact with the brake pad on
each rotor revolution. If left like this, the portion of the rotor that contacts the brake pad
becomes worn, creating thickness variation.
B. EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE
– Driving in areas where salt is applied to road surfaces for winter conditions can cause
rust and corrosion when the vehicle is parked for an extended period of time. This occurs
on the area where the brake pads are not in contact with the rotor.
– When a vehicle is driven with rusted rotors, the area with corrosion wears at a
different rate than the non–corroded areas, resulting in excessive thickness variation.
03-19-2009, 12:57 AM
#24
Senior Member
[ "Thickness Variation" is the key word.
BRAKE VIBRATION AND/OR PULSATION Page 3 of 6
There are two factors which cause excessive rotor thickness variation:
A. ROTOR RUNOUT
– Rotor runout can be caused by poor mating of flanges between the hub and rotor when
assembled as a unit.
My guys hated to pull wheels back apart to do runnout on the hubs and rotors espesially After cleaning the hub surface real good and there was still some kind of Vibration or pulsation with the new rotors. Most of our frt rotors were alway replaced never machined. Most home wrenchers don't have the means to check runout on the rotors and then go to the hubs and check runout. But hopefully they clean the hubs good.
B. EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE
– Driving in areas where salt is applied to road surfaces for winter conditions
Not too much rust in San Diego. if the rotors were badly rusted we would just replace them as I am sure it is done back east. I would guess there would be more hub replacement in snow country or stormy salt water areas like the gulf or east coast
BRAKE VIBRATION AND/OR PULSATION Page 3 of 6
There are two factors which cause excessive rotor thickness variation:
A. ROTOR RUNOUT
– Rotor runout can be caused by poor mating of flanges between the hub and rotor when
assembled as a unit.
My guys hated to pull wheels back apart to do runnout on the hubs and rotors espesially After cleaning the hub surface real good and there was still some kind of Vibration or pulsation with the new rotors. Most of our frt rotors were alway replaced never machined. Most home wrenchers don't have the means to check runout on the rotors and then go to the hubs and check runout. But hopefully they clean the hubs good.
B. EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE
– Driving in areas where salt is applied to road surfaces for winter conditions
Not too much rust in San Diego. if the rotors were badly rusted we would just replace them as I am sure it is done back east. I would guess there would be more hub replacement in snow country or stormy salt water areas like the gulf or east coast
03-19-2009, 01:20 AM
#25
Senior Member
BRAKE VIBRATION AND/OR PULSATION Page 3 of 6
A. ROTOR RUNOUT
B. EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE
This type of an issue could get beyond the avarage do it your selfer.
It is good to show why wierd brake problems need to be sent to a good shop
Heres a good one:
Pulsating brakes, steering wheel shakes!
Remove the wheels, Lug nuts were over tightened.
Secured rotor on car perform runout test. Out of specs too much runout
Rotor has 2000 miles on it but was fine whent he car left the shop. smooth Braking
Remove rotor test runnout on hub again out of specs. hub is bent.
Both frt hubs test the same. rotors are not blued or discolored
Note: tires were repl at about 500 mile prior to this visit,
We wty the rotors as a courtesy sold the hubs. took the sevice bulletin and special torque tool to the tire store showed the manager. We recomended the customer try to get reimbersed from tire store.
Hey what the heck wide example of runnout problem!!!!
and its true
A. ROTOR RUNOUT
B. EXCESSIVE RUST OR CORROSION ON ROTOR SURFACE
This type of an issue could get beyond the avarage do it your selfer.
It is good to show why wierd brake problems need to be sent to a good shop
Heres a good one:
Pulsating brakes, steering wheel shakes!
Remove the wheels, Lug nuts were over tightened.
Secured rotor on car perform runout test. Out of specs too much runout
Rotor has 2000 miles on it but was fine whent he car left the shop. smooth Braking
Remove rotor test runnout on hub again out of specs. hub is bent.
Both frt hubs test the same. rotors are not blued or discolored
Note: tires were repl at about 500 mile prior to this visit,
We wty the rotors as a courtesy sold the hubs. took the sevice bulletin and special torque tool to the tire store showed the manager. We recomended the customer try to get reimbersed from tire store.
Hey what the heck wide example of runnout problem!!!!
and its true
03-19-2009, 06:44 AM
#26
Moderator (Ret.)
On each rotor, it's mandated by law that the minimum thickness be embosed on the rotor itself. Any shop that turns the rotor past this required minimum thickness would be breaking a serious law, as it puts you, your family, and others sharing the road with you in danger; the rotors can break, creating disaster. No doubt your Ford dealership will obide by this, and require you to buy new rotors if this is the case; a win win situation for all.
Not knowing your driving habits, rotors can warp if you apply constant pedal pressure, or drive through water constantly. The people that drive with their left foot resting on the brake pedal (drives me crazy when riding behind them; brake lights are always on) keep constant pressure on the pads; this transfers heat to the rotors. If your area or roads are heavy with water, applying the brake, then driving through water can warp them, as the brake pads create heat to the rotors, and the water will instantly cool them. If this happens frequently, the rotors can warp.
If the rotors are cut below the stamped minimum required thickness, they can warp, as there is not enough thickness to allow heat transfer and cooling, plus the rotor can shatter; dangerous!
If you use your truck for towing, or hilly type driving, you might be a good candidate for slotted or drilled rotors. These cool much faster. When the brakes are applied, the friction of the pads against the rotors creates a gas, as well as heat build up. The slotted and/or drilled rotors allow for these gases and heat build up to disapate faster.
These rotors are of course more expensive than stock. Again, hard to suggest the added expense of upgrading to slotted or drilled rotors, as I do not know your driving conditions or habits.
Others add these style rotors for the "cool" factor. Under "normal" conditions, stock rotors should be fine. But some folks have money to burn....
Not knowing your driving habits, rotors can warp if you apply constant pedal pressure, or drive through water constantly. The people that drive with their left foot resting on the brake pedal (drives me crazy when riding behind them; brake lights are always on) keep constant pressure on the pads; this transfers heat to the rotors. If your area or roads are heavy with water, applying the brake, then driving through water can warp them, as the brake pads create heat to the rotors, and the water will instantly cool them. If this happens frequently, the rotors can warp.
If the rotors are cut below the stamped minimum required thickness, they can warp, as there is not enough thickness to allow heat transfer and cooling, plus the rotor can shatter; dangerous!
If you use your truck for towing, or hilly type driving, you might be a good candidate for slotted or drilled rotors. These cool much faster. When the brakes are applied, the friction of the pads against the rotors creates a gas, as well as heat build up. The slotted and/or drilled rotors allow for these gases and heat build up to disapate faster.
These rotors are of course more expensive than stock. Again, hard to suggest the added expense of upgrading to slotted or drilled rotors, as I do not know your driving conditions or habits.
Others add these style rotors for the "cool" factor. Under "normal" conditions, stock rotors should be fine. But some folks have money to burn....
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 03-19-2009 at 06:57 AM.
06-16-2009, 10:46 PM
#27
Member
Join Date: May 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Biggest problem with the rotors are the brakes themselves..although ford will not recall on the 02-07 the Back brake pads are undersized..all four wheel disc systems eat rotors
twice as fast as a truck with rear drums and front disc..the engineers undersize the size of the brakes..in the rear causing both front and back to heat up faster..hit a puddle or rain..there you have it warped rotors
twice as fast as a truck with rear drums and front disc..the engineers undersize the size of the brakes..in the rear causing both front and back to heat up faster..hit a puddle or rain..there you have it warped rotors
06-17-2009, 07:17 AM
#28
Moderator (Ret.)
Biggest problem with the rotors are the brakes themselves..although ford will not recall on the 02-07 the Back brake pads are undersized..all four wheel disc systems eat rotors
twice as fast as a truck with rear drums and front disc..the engineers undersize the size of the brakes..in the rear causing both front and back to heat up faster..hit a puddle or rain..there you have it warped rotors
twice as fast as a truck with rear drums and front disc..the engineers undersize the size of the brakes..in the rear causing both front and back to heat up faster..hit a puddle or rain..there you have it warped rotors
In re-reading some of the previous posts to this topic, I see that one truck owner installed oversize tires and/or rims. Obviously the Ford engineers did not design their braking system for this condition, so the stock brakes could not be found as a faulty design under this type of condition. Other modifications can also cause premature wear or failure of the braking system. I have to say that the brakes on my 2005 have not given me any failure to date. I now have 79K on this truck.
Last edited by Mod (Ret.); 06-17-2009 at 07:31 AM.