2004 F150 No crank
#1
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2004 F150 No crank
Hey, I'm new here, but I thought this may help someone else with a similar problem. On Saturday, I had the doors on 2004 F150 Lariat open a long time while I cleaned the truck. Sat. afternoon, the truck wouldn't crank. Thought the battery was dead (its old), so I put a charger on it. Still no crank. Had it tested at two different stores--both said good and fully charged.
Cluster dead, interior lights inoperative, radio inoperative and Actron scan tool unable to communicate, but power at the test port.
Checked fuses--no problems, only radio fuse not getting power. Checked the starter--looked good, clean and connections tight.
Applied current to the test connector under the hood--the engine turned over.
PATs light flasing properly, and bench tested relays in fuse box and under the hood. All good.
Looked at fuel pump driver module and found it cracked in two places. Replaced. Still no crank.
Checked wires under the dash, found current flowing properly.
Changed ignition lock cylinder, still no crank.
Went back over everything--no dice. I came to the conclusion it was the gauge cluster as the tach needle was frozen at 1000.
Gave in and had it hauled to the dealership. Master Tech spent two days and finally concluded it was the cluster. Removed and it tested good.
The Shop Foreman noticed a ground on the diagram that wasn't marked as GRND. Under the kick panel, driver's side. Tech checked and it was loose. Repaired the ground, problem solved! Total at dealer: $467.10
Cluster dead, interior lights inoperative, radio inoperative and Actron scan tool unable to communicate, but power at the test port.
Checked fuses--no problems, only radio fuse not getting power. Checked the starter--looked good, clean and connections tight.
Applied current to the test connector under the hood--the engine turned over.
PATs light flasing properly, and bench tested relays in fuse box and under the hood. All good.
Looked at fuel pump driver module and found it cracked in two places. Replaced. Still no crank.
Checked wires under the dash, found current flowing properly.
Changed ignition lock cylinder, still no crank.
Went back over everything--no dice. I came to the conclusion it was the gauge cluster as the tach needle was frozen at 1000.
Gave in and had it hauled to the dealership. Master Tech spent two days and finally concluded it was the cluster. Removed and it tested good.
The Shop Foreman noticed a ground on the diagram that wasn't marked as GRND. Under the kick panel, driver's side. Tech checked and it was loose. Repaired the ground, problem solved! Total at dealer: $467.10
The following 2 users liked this post by RapidRobert:
techrep (03-25-2016),
Unlimited HP (07-28-2019)