Originally Posted by cornhusker
The vehicle is still drive-able. I did clean the throttle body and noticed a slight gain in smoothness once I got pasted the idle - so I'm sure that did me SOME good. I'm not against changing the plugs, just hope that I don't break on off inside the head. Tonight I will pull each coil pack and see if the motor makes any difference while running. If it does then I'll know that cylinder is working. If it doesn't then maybe I can isolate the issue to that cylinder and come to the conclusion that it's either the coil pack or plug. I'm just surprised that I don't get a CEL for how rough it's idling. If I do decide to change out the plugs is the process as simple as: Remove PCM and harness on pass side to get to everything easier. Pull Coil Pack and break free the spark plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn Spray some PB Blaster down hole then wait an hour Finally remove the spark plug with an impact at 60lbs Also, I did pull the electrical plug on crankshaft position sensor while running and it make no difference for the idle miss. Thanks,
sounds like you have a broken phaser on that side, causing the whole bank to not fire correctly at idle,
Mine was doing this, I put some 10w-40 in the see if the increase in oil pressure was enough to overcome the spring on the broken phaser and it was, it worked for about a day and a half then it was back.
Telling me that is was a phaser issue, you will also want to verify your oil pressure by putting in a mechanical oil gauge.
This is what was causing my issue. Broken phaser vanes