ford911

Well.. My first post. I really like pictures . Not sure what I am getting into here.

I am in the process of removing the engine from the truck. It is missing an intake valve, as in it has dropped the valve, Cam is no good. Pieces of the rocker arm are in the head area and I assume in the oil pan.

Has anyone seen this before? Should I expect for the block to need to be sleeved?

I am assuming that something happened to the oil pressure. Motor is really clean.

Any ideas or suggestions?

vozaday

Replacement motors are pretty cheap, might be better to look at that.

Plus there is probably a lot of metal in the oil right now, and typically the valve will wreck the piston and cylinder.

ford911

Okay. So I got the engine out last night. It is sitting on the floor. I have to get the bolts so I can attach the engine to the engine stand. I will have more pictures after tonight. Right now I am anticipating rebuilding the motor myself.

If anyone has anything particular about something that they would like to see a picture of please ask.

BP

Rick's 06

Looks like you have the means to go through your engine and assess the damage. I guess I'd do that and see what needs to be replaced and see if you can do that for less then a replacement engine. I'm thinking if you have the tools and know how to rebuild an engine you'll certainly come out ahead doing the work yourself. Please keep us posted with what you find. Good luck.

Edit:
One more thing. If you decide to save your engine, it would probably be a good time to look at some of the known problems like cam chain tensioners, cam phasers. I'd also do the spark plugs since you'll have the heads off anyway so if any break you'll have access from the other side.

ford911

Okay.. so I got the motor out. Got the heads off and removed the piston... The valve stuck into the top of the piston was pretty cool looking.

I am in the process of locating a head and or getting some help with rebuilding the heads.

I think that a valve spring failed... my guess.

BP

tdkkart

If you have intentions of re-using that block, check the cylinder wall VERY carefully for cracks. The last motor I did that to had a broken cylinder wall. Basically all that was left was one cylinder head.

ford911

That is a concern that I have. It is very hard to tell. I am thinking that the machine shop that will sleeve it will check it for me at a cost of course.

I need to locate another head. I have found one but, not sure I want a rebuild-able head since this is where mine failed.

I am thinking about disassembling the rest of it tonight.

Does anyone know where the torque specs are located and are the main bolts torque to yield? I know the head bolts are TTY.

BP

screamineagle

I'm sure all the info your looking for can be found online somewhere. However, I find a Chiltons manual invaluable when it comes to in depth procedures such as engine tear down and assembly.

ford911

I have a small update in my saga. I have purchased another 5.4L engine that was running. However the cam journals are heavily worn from an oil event. I have disassembled the engine and have found one score on the number 7 cylinder. I might be in the same boat as with the original one.

The second motor I got I will call Motor B had new guides phasers and tensioners. The chains I think were new however they had some marks on them.

I have bought two new heads from Autozone as I had a 20% coupon. Ended up about 420 a head. Everyone that said they had them did not and wanted to rebuild my heads. I have four heads and only one is any good.

Both blocks are at a local machine shop named Honeycutt and I have asked them to select the best of the two blocks, cranks, and 15 rods and pistons. I will be buying a kit of rings, bearings, pistons and gaskets to rebuild.

I have bought a Melling 10340 performance oil pump but, I am considering not using it and buying a Melling M360. The one guy I was talking to said to use the 10340 but, I am not sure if pressure is the right thing to go after. Jasper says the use the M360 with their reman motors.

Here are a few pictures of Engine B. Engine A. is above. Take a look at the thrust washers. They are noticeably worn. They look rough. I have measured the crank journals and they are right within the specification for the rod and mains. I do not see an issue with putting stock sized bearings back in without an issue with either crank.

BP

ford911

Have bought all new main and rod bolts from TascaParts. They had the best combined prices that I was able to find. I will be getting victor or Felpro head bolts. I have added a few pages out of the Hanes manual.