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18 Hours on my first plug change!!!

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Old 04-08-2015, 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MGD
COPs fail from lack of initial quality, heat, age and the cumulative stresses of high voltage.

Winding typical short internally due to insulation breakdown between windings. This leads to reduced ( and eventually no ) voltage production.

Measuring resistance will only tell you if they are open or a dead short. To test them properly requires equipment you do not have. They need to be tested under load.

Most folks advocate using quality COPs like Motorcraft or Visteon to mitigate the problems in the first place.

And as importantly - the use of new boots, springs and dielectric.

Good luck.

MGD
So sounds like I'll just return them and stick with my stock coils... Haha! But since I'm changing my plugs, think I still need new boots and springs with the new dielectric when I swap the plugs? Any recommendations based on reliability for new boots/springs?
J
Old 04-08-2015, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Hanginten24
So sounds like I'll just return them and stick with my stock coils... Haha! But since I'm changing my plugs, think I still need new boots and springs with the new dielectric when I swap the plugs? Any recommendations based on reliability for new boots/springs?
J
Hi.

Unless yer on a strict budget, I always advocate using new boots & springs to complete the job. And you MUST use dielectric or risk misfires.

As fer quality - the OEM Motorcrafts are great - Tasca has great pricing. Or head to Napa and pick up Belden boots (they come with springs).

These things are ~ $5 -$6 each.

G'luck!

MGD

Last edited by MGD; 04-08-2015 at 09:41 PM.
Old 04-08-2015, 08:43 PM
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I know a lot of people advocate replacing the boots and for $5 each, it's not a bad recommendation. However I had a shudder in my truck several weeks ago but it didn't throw a code. I ended up pulling all my coils off and removing the boots and springs. I simply washed my boots in warm soapy water and dried them. They still appeared to be in perfect shape to me. The springs also looked fine, but I removed all of them from the coils and installed them again a couple times just to make sure I had a clean connection. I then put some fresh dialectic grease back on them and put the coils back on. So far so good. The shudder didn't come back. So, if you're cheap like me it might be worth a try. Only cost me an hour to remove, clean and put back on. Just a thought.
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Old 04-08-2015, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick's 06
I know a lot of people advocate replacing the boots and for $5 each, it's not a bad recommendation. However I had a shudder in my truck several weeks ago but it didn't throw a code. I ended up pulling all my coils off and removing the boots and springs. I simply washed my boots in warm soapy water and dried them. They still appeared to be in perfect shape to me. The springs also looked fine, but I removed all of them from the coils and installed them again a couple times just to make sure I had a clean connection. I then put some fresh dialectic grease back on them and put the coils back on. So far so good. The shudder didn't come back. So, if you're cheap like me it might be worth a try. Only cost me an hour to remove, clean and put back on. Just a thought.
Good advice, Rick.

Some folks find their boots have hardened and lost their 'elasticity'. In those cases, the boot will not seal properly on the plug ceramic. Further - minute, unseen pinholes, cracking, carbon tracking etc needs close scrutiny.

I can, however, fully understand budgetary constraints.

Cheers
MGD
Old 04-08-2015, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MGD
Good advice, Rick.

Some folks find their boots have hardened and lost their 'elasticity'. In those cases, the boot will not seal properly on the plug ceramic. Further - minute, unseen pinholes, cracking, carbon tracking etc needs close scrutiny.

I can, however, fully understand budgetary constraints.

Cheers
MGD
You guys are awesome! Saving me lots of headaches, I'll look into the Napa boots and springs, think I can just call my local Napa and see if they have them or can get them in stock? I wanna try and knock this out this weekend, but if I can't get the boots in time, no biggie:-)
Old 04-09-2015, 12:47 AM
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I have used BWD boots and springs 3 times from Oreilley and no issues. I recommend cutting a paper type finger nail file in half lenght wise and sanding the copper contact in the nipple of the COP. I have ran OEM coils up over 200k using this method.
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Old 04-12-2015, 09:06 AM
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Thanks Summers, Rick, and MGD! I successfully completed the install of the new boots and springs as well as the plugs... I ended up using NGK Iridium plugs with NGK boots and springs, I cleaned the coil terminals real good with a nail file my wife donated to the cause, blasted the plug pit with air before removing them, and put her all back together... All in all, it only took me about five hours, but it really didn't seem that long. The real biotch coils were the 3rd one back on the passenger side and the 1st and 4th on the driver's side... In addition, which I forgt to mention, I swapped my alternator with a 130amp alternator and a larger gauge wire yesterday, I did that first, took about 3 hours just for that... So again, thank you guys for helping me not **** this up!!
J
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