ernierob130

* MAINTENANCE


did=
Spark plugs
Fuel filter
New CAI filter
Brakes
Anti freeze flushed and new
Rear and from diff. new fluid and gaskets
Gator back Serp. Belt
BBK throttle body


Ideas??
Still have stock battery and when should I do coil packs?? And how expensive??

Tranny fluid was never changed so I was told to late now to flush and filter

2005 f150 5.4 4x4

RigidDoc

The battery is good until it isn't good anymore (unless you're running some high pull sound, lights, winch, etc.). Not trying to be a smart A, but why spend the money? As far as the tranny... If you do a filter and fluid change, with NO flush, it should be just fine. It's kinda an old addage about the flush stirring up particles/debris and causing your trans to have problems. Talk to a reputable trans shop and get their input. But, to reiterate, a trans filter and fluid swap without the flush should not cause problems.

Hope you put the friction modifier in the rear! Some will say it's not needed, but I found it to be.

Otherwise, just search "high mileage maintenance" on this forum and it will keep you straight.

Best of luck!

otto457

It's never too late to do the transmission. Fluid will continue to break down and get worse. A "flush" using solvents isn't recommended, but a series of pan drops and new fluid is a safe way to do so.
COPs are usually good until they start misfiring. New boots/connectors are a good idea any time the spark plugs are changed.
I'd add MAF cleaning, front O2 sensors, and power steering fluid exchange to your list to do.

Not really maintenance, but I'd also say custom tunes for your CAI and TB if you don't already have them. You obviously want this truck to last a long time, and since you've changed the MAF environment other changes need to be made too.

ernierob130

I always clean the MAF sensor.. Even went with a disposable high flow CAI filter. I'm not a fan of oiled ones now what so ever... I'm In the process of getting a SCT from troyer with troyer tunes.. I was just stating original battery ...I'm shocked


Power steering was a little low filled it back up

Actually didn't change rear dif. Manual says not to that it's lubed for life
But my front has a slight leak I gotta get fixed new fluid and gasket. Yeah I new about the friction additive

amick218

I have 106k now...is it too late for synthetic oil? Or should I just buy high quality high mileage oil...

otto457

It's never too late for synthetic, but don't switch unless you're changing your OCI too. Don't get taken by the myths that synthetics are that much different than dino oils. It's mainly basestock blend difference with minor adjustments to the add pack. HM oils are also well marketed, but companies (Pennzoil for example) admit their better oils have the same amount of seal conditioners as their HM oil.

amick218

Thanks for the insight...I just considered it because I wouldn't have to change it every 3k....would higher quality regular oil go a little longer, maybe wait until 5k?

otto457

3000 OCI are going the way of the dodo. Most quality dino oils have the TBN to go 5000 miles easy, and synthetics can do beyond that. It varies a lot by application and motor, but 10k+ oil changes are doable with the right oil. UOA is a good tool for seeing how much you are actually leaving on the table with your oil life.

amick218

Do you recommend a good dino oil (I'm guessing that's your average motor oil?) I just have the 4.2l Btw

otto457

Depends: what's your driving pattern (trip lengths), driving style (granny, racer), and if you want to do longer OCI. It comes down to your conditions and price for whether Group I and II or Group III+ makes more sense to be used.