desi

2007 5.4 xlt Screw.

I've been running this rig in 2wd forever. It snowed alot. Went to use 4wd, all was good. Now, driving in 2wd, I get front end humming, like the 4wd was still on. Read all about the IWE issues, so I started with replacing the solenoid on the firewall; same problem.
With the truck switched to 2wd, I had had my wife drive ahead and back slowly while I took a peek under the front end (she missed her chance to drive over me lol). The short shaft ahead of the transfer case was not turning but both cv axles were. So I'm assuming no vacuum at the IWE's? Should I keep it in 4wd till I get it fixed?
The local Ford dealer charged me $30 Cdn for the solenoid, but wants $166 Cdn a piece for the IWE actuators, I think that's much too high. Where can I get a decent deal for the actuators?

the big dawg

Search for Tasca ford parts - they are great to deal with.

I had issues with my IWE switch and they found the vacuum lines were full of water so even with the new switch I had the same problems.

Dealer blew the lines out and problem solved.

xJimbos

Raise the front end up on jackstands. Start truck engine. With truck in 2wd (but tranny still in park, god I hope you would know that already but I gotta write it down any ways just in case, no offense), try to turn the front wheels. If halfshaft(s) and both wheels turn than you are not getting any vacuum from the IWE solenoid.
If front wheels spin independently than you are getting good vacuum.
If your wheels are still connected to the halfshaft(s) and other wheel than there is water in your vacuum lines (or the IWE solenoid tubing is not routed correctly). Unhook the vacuum lines down at each wheel and blow air into the tubing off of the IWE solenoid that goes down to the wheels to remove the water. You may need something stronger though like compressed air to get all the blockage out. You may also have a rip or hole in the tubing somewhere. Try like crazy to find it, it will be hard and a big pain in the ***.
Looking at the front driveshaft with vehicle on ground will not tell you much about the IWE as this CAN BE independent to whatever the hell the transfer case is doing. Think of it like this, each front wheel is independent of everything until the IWE vacuum is gone. If no vacuum than the hubs engage, locking the front wheels to the halfshafts to each other. And I want to say that the front wheels and halfshafts can spin without causing the front differential from spinning but I may be wrong about that. Something about preventing torque from the front wheels from torquing the rest of the driveline (to prevent damage).
Don't just drive it in 4x4 on pavement though or you will be replacing the gears inside of your transfer case after a while.

xJimbos

Also, if I were you, I would go for ford hubs. I don't even think you can fit any other hubs to the front wheels, though I may be wrong. This is an important part of your driveline though, buy ford. Try ebay first for a ford part. Get the exact part number by calling any ford dealership and talk to their parts dept. Give them your VIN and they will tell you what you need. You can also go to the new www.fordparts.com and plug all of this in.

desi

With the truck running and in 2wd, I can spin the driver side cv by hand, but the passenger side is locked in. Looks like I'll be ripping that side open. By the time I order online and pay for customs fees, taxes etc. being in Canada, I think I may as well pay the 166 and have a genuine Ford part to work with. Thanks for all the input, and belated apologies for not using the search function more!

Do I need an alignment done after the job?

NVR2LO

that sign in your avatar looks firmiliar, from winipeg?

xJimbos

I don't think you will need an alignment as you are not touching the ball joints or suspension or any of that mess. You are just pulling the wheels and brake components off to get to the hubs. The alignment has to do with all the other arms and junk attaching to the wheel. (you will see what I mean when you pull the wheel).

Also, you may want to buy 2 hubs but repair the passenger side first and test it out. If the driverside wheel spins freely during test, you can probably just return the 2nd hub. It sounds like it is still good. BUT...if you want to be thorough, pull the drivers side hub and check for rust on the inside in case a little water did get into it, but not enough to overcome the vacuum pressure.

desi

Bought the truck at Dj Cruzs a year ago. It's been a great unit overall.


Yeah, I think I'll buy two actuators and do them both and be done with it.

xJimbos

Cool. Just make sure you clear those vacuum lines or all of that could be for nothing.

desi

OK...update on the issue:

Pulled the passenger side cv axle, and found that the actuator itself was at fault. I had great vacuum, and thought maybe there was crap in there preventing the gear from disengaging. What had actually happened was the gear on the actuator had seperated from the bellows, leaving the axle locked to the wheel. I threw out the gear and put it back together and will run in 2 till I can get the part. A very simple system, and I was able to tear into there and have things apart in like 10 minutes.