ajv5042

2007 Scab Fx4


I purchased An Excalibur RS-160-EDP+ add-on Remote start and Fortin Key-Override-All bypass.


This isn't my first install by far, but I am stumped.


Followed all wiring requirements and successfully programmed the bypass.


I have an issue with the fob (which are factory ford fobs) intermittently starting the truck.
I've played with the trigger settings for hours and hours and can't make sense of it.


I get that the remote starter unit has a lead which senses a negative pulse input from the lock wire in the driver kick panel (pink/yellow).


But, sometimes it triggers, sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes when I unlock the doors and open driver and passenger doors, it triggers and starts the truck.
Also when the headlights (automatic) turn off after shutting the truck off, they pulse the trigger wire and start the truck also.


When I can get the fob to remote start, by pressing lock-unlock-lock, I then can't do the same sequence to cancel the remote start.


I'm at a loss.


Please help

ReaperHWK

Did you diode isolate the wiring for the lock/unlock? Keep in mind with aftermarket module you now have the BCM and the aftermarket module controlling the same thing, the BCM has a power down mode which changes the state on some of it's wiring and can cause false triggers.

Looks like some feedback is triggering something, definately sounds like it.

I installed a Code Alarm remote start in my truck, I had to use diode's to get it to work properly for the lock/unlock. Also, it looks like voltage on the headlight circuit is feeding back somewhere as well. Did you wire this up per an install diagram?

I wired my remote start to work like this:

1)For the lock, I pulsed two of the door keypad triggers low, and diode isolated them. This is the factory ARM of the truck, which makes the BCM lock the doors, turn off acc power, and interior/exterior lights.
2)For unlock, I pulsed the unlock wire on the truck(the one that goes to your door switches). I also used this same wire to pulse the factory door trigger wire, so on unlock it makes the BCM think the door opened and closed, and therefore it will put on the factory interior lighting with the fading in/out. (I didn't want to use the aftermarket illumination because you needed a relay, and I like the BCM to be tricked into doing most of the functions). Plus the factory has a cool fading on/off of the interior/cargo lights.


How did you wire the lock/unlock? It has to be something interfering with the factory BCM as well as not diode isolating.