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06 OEM sub non-audiophile help!

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Old 03-12-2015, 05:30 PM
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Default 06 OEM sub non-audiophile help!

Here is the thing, I have the non audiophile HU truck came with no sub, I cant find the harness pig tail behind the HU, BUT, I do have the sub harness in rear under seat.


I purchased a factory f150 sub with the OEM amp that I want to hook up. I want to run my own input from radio, power/ground etc.


I have searched forums hi and low I cant find anything on the harness under seat schematic with color codes, can someone tell me or test yours that has a sub, which wires are B+, remote turn on (I think its 5volts), ground, and speaker inputs.


Im going to splice into this harness and just wire it up myself, I just need to know whats hot and whats not :-) and I don't want to mess it up, it would be great if someone with a sub can test their harness and tell me which terminals are supposed to be what. I have seen a lot of schematics but none match up color wise to what I have and they have been no help.
Old 03-12-2015, 06:05 PM
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Hopefully this helps, I did it a few months ago but since have changed out my stock sub and amp to aftermarket.
BK-OG = Ground
Vt-LB = Voltage at all times (Should go to your Yellow wire, but this or the DG-VT is the correct one for the Yellow, which ever is thicker gauge goes to Yellow, the other is Remote)
DG-VT = Subwoofer amplifier-Enable (Read note for above one)
BR-OG = Subwoofer signal +If you splice a RCA cable this goes to the outer mesh around the plastic center
RD-BK = Subwoofer signal - If you splice a RCA cable this goes to the center of the RCA


Good Luck
Tom

Last edited by vintageman; 03-12-2015 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Update
Old 03-12-2015, 07:02 PM
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Thanks this sounds right, is the remote turn on wire 5 volts ? I have read that some place, or will 12v be ok?
Old 03-12-2015, 07:13 PM
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I did not multimeter mine when I put it together, just trial and errored it. If it is 12v, then you may have to install a couple of resistors (radio shack has them). There are videos on youtube for getting rid of the amp "pop" if it is 12v
Old 03-12-2015, 07:15 PM
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And by yellow wire do you mean a Keyes power? My harness doesn't have a yellow.
Old 03-12-2015, 11:41 PM
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The harness that goes to the back of the head unit. You should have a Red, Yellow, Black and all of the speaker wires. You may also have a couple more, I cant remember all the wires back there right now.
Old 03-13-2015, 06:42 PM
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ok I make shiftly hooked it up input signal from door speaker, came on and sounded, sounded nice up to 1/4 volume then any higher the sound went south with a lot of distortion. could this be because the HU is shoving too much into the input of amp and I may need one of those input coverting things?
Old 03-14-2015, 11:15 AM
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not sure about that, mine had no issues. Just changed it all out bc my son gave me new amp an subs for Christmas.
Old 03-14-2015, 03:29 PM
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Ok I got it.


TO EVERYONE WITH OUT audiophile HU, and you want to install the factory sub and amp....


I bought OEM sub and amp on ebay 120 bucks. Truck had the harness under seat but the only thing hooked were the constant power 12v and ground.


constant power is blue and purple, ground is black and orange.
I cut the other wires ran a signal right from the door speaker white/green, white/black twisted pair, didn't remove door panel, pulled back the rubber loom in the crack of the door where it hinges and tapped into there, ran wires into frame through bottom foot guard to rear where sub is.


while under foot guard checked for a keyed power wire, found a blue wire with black stripe that was hot only key on, used that for remote amp turn on which is the only wire left in sub harness think it was green and purple its a small wire, the two speaker inputs at amp are black and red. If your radio is non audiophile with no sun out you will need to get an line out converter, has rca one side spliced wires other side, door speaker signal goes into converter through spliced wires, I took an rca cable and cut it, ran that to the amps speaker input. And badda-bing.


The reason you need the converter is the out put from the door speaker is too strong to go into the amp, causes distortion above 1/4 throttle, the converter is adjustable I set it about half gain which reduced the input into the amp to the proper level.


doesn't blow the windows off, but sounds really good and has way more bass in the truck now.



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