Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I just did my brothers 2011 5.4, so much more room in his than ours. I was done in under 2 hours. That is with MAF cleaning and throttle body cleaning and rebuilding the COP's (new boots and springs with filing down the copper contact in the COP itself.

044x4F150

Changed mine this past weekend. The 2 rear ones were a pain. On the passenger side I used a rachet broke 3outta4 bought the lisle tool for 100 bucks at O'Reilly. I soaked mine but still didn't help. Extracted the broken ones and the Lisle tool did it flawless. Next day hooked up the ECU started it up and then proceeded to use an impact on the driver side. I was so happy nothing broke on the driver side. I didn't soak anything on the driver side and the impact worked with a semi warm engine. Good luck if your reading this.

Hongstertruck

So in conclusion the best method is hot engine and impact?
Glad to hear the Lisle tool worked great for you.

HulluCorn

i have a high torque Dewalt 1/2' impact gun. Do you think that would be to much torque for the job?

thanks,
Kray

Hongstertruck

No, you have control of the gun at the finger tip. Don't just squeeze the trigger and let it rip.

HulluCorn

Thanks i think ill do mine this weekend.

Englishbully

Sounds exactly what happened to me.check out my video on the first page

044x4F150

Not hot... just warm..i ran it for possibly 2 mins. By the time I was done disconnecting and moving harnesses it was luke warm at best.

044x4F150

This is exactly what i used. it's an 18v P260 Ryobi 1/2 Impact Driver. it worked flawless for the first 3, but the rear was tight. Also i bought a 9/16 Spark plug wobble w/ magnet @ Autozone. You must use a 1/2 to 3/8 adaptor on the imapct wrench along with various elbows/extensions

Toshbar

When the lisle tool pushes the ceramic insulator through the grounding tip, doesn't some of the ceramic break off and fall down into the combustion chamber? Looks like 044x4F150's 2nd from left top row is missing a serious piece of ceramic from the tip.