So I've been lurking around here for some time, checking stuff out. What I was mainly looking for was advice on passenger side exhaust manifold replacement. I found plenty of posts where people were in the same place as me but gave up and took it to a mechanic mixed in with some posts from people who did it but didnt create a step by step walk through. Well, I decided to do my own and create a walk through.
I will admit, I got lucky. Very lucky. It only took me 7 hours working alone and I didnt break a single stud. Patience and thinking ahead will save you alot of time.
Go get yourself a stubby 3/8 ratchet, a good selection of socket extensions, a mid depth 13mm socket, and an impact style swivel socket adapter. These things will make it much easier.
As always, your experience may differ and I am not liable if it does.
Remove the inner fender liner and start soaking the manifold and exhaust flange nuts in penetrating oil at least a day in advance.
This vital! Thinking ahead will save you a ton of headaches. Removing the inner fender liner is not too hard. This will give you enough room to get the the exhaust flange nuts and the top manifold studs. Jack up the front end, get underneath, and you will just be able to see all the bottom studs. Soak everything every hour, on the hour. While youre at it, do yourself a favor and soak the drivers side exhaust flange nuts too, you will need to remove them too.
Day 2, get the truck up on jack stands and remove the front drivers side tire. Unbolt the front sway bar from the frame and the passenger side lower A arm. Swing the sway bar out of the way. Now you can start removing the starter. There are 3 nuts and 3 bolts you need to remove; the 3 nuts holding the solenoid, power, and ground wires and the 3 mounting bolts. There is one bolt on the very top of the starter that is a pain to get to. A good selection of socket extensions will help you here and in the rest of this project.
Heat is your best friend now. Heat up the passenger side exhaust flange nuts. If you have an oxy-acetalene torch or access to one, use a #2 welding tip. If not, at least get a propane torch. Heat up and remove then one at a time. Just get them to glow red a little, let them cool a couple seconds, then remove. If they're still stubborn, re-heat, then hit the stud with penetrating oil while they're still hot.
Now stuff gets tense. Begin heating the manifold nuts and removing them.
Here is where my luck started. The nuts were not very tightly torqued on. I was able to easily remove them one handed with a 13mm wrench. My luck continued on the bottom side. I used the stubby ratchet and mid depth 13mm socket but no heat. Each nut came out, one handed, with the stud attached. Again, luck and preparation.
Once the manifold is free, you can fish it out through the bottom. This was the hardest part for me. Theres 3 things you can do to make it easier. Go over to the drivers side exhaust and disconnect the pipe from the manifold. Again, heat! Do this the same way as the passenger side. Then go to the rear transmission cross member and remove the 2 bolts that hold the exhaust support to the frame. This will allow you to pull the exhaust pipe down and get more room. The last thing you can do is to raise the passenger side of the motor up. Its easier than you think. Under the passenger side motor mount you will see 2 large nuts with a thick oval shaped washer underneath them both. Undo those nuts. Then take your floor jack and place a piece of wood on top of it. Position it under the transmission bell housing and raise the jack. Make sure you have solid contact before going any further. YOU ONLY WANT TO RAISE THE MOTOR AN INCH! Anymore could cause damage.
These things wont give you a ton of room but it will help. You should be able to get it out now.
This is what I found once I got mine out.
Reassembly is much easier, just do everything in reverse with your new manifold, gaskets, and hardware.
P.S. Yes, this is my first post. Go big or go home. lol