04 F150 spark plug torque specs
03-14-2016, 04:44 PM
#21
I bought the truck from my neighbor. He said he never had it done. It was stumbling in overdrive. So I knew the problem was plugs. Runs good now. I am getting ready to do a timing set. Chains, guides, tensioners, oil pump and water pump. Is it Nessesary to buy the expensive OTC tool to hold the cams? Or does anyone else know of a way around that?
03-14-2016, 05:16 PM
#22
Senior Member
A lot of guys use vice grips on the cam directly behind the phaser. I know from experience that it does work, but the cam gets marred up a bit (on a non-essential, non-contact area). So I would say it's your call
03-14-2016, 05:23 PM
#23
I understand. I have done that before on a 4.6 without problems. I think I will do that. I will probably need to roll the cam slightly anyway to get the chain on properly. I'm not worried about a few marks on there. Hopefully, I'll do it and never have to look again. I could also place a reference mark with a paint pen just in case it slips or something. Thank you.
05-04-2016, 11:39 AM
#24
2004 F150XLT
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spark plug removal
I just changed the spark plugs in my 04 F-150 5.4 and didn't break any of the plugs. i was definately nervous about doing the job but didn't want to give a mechanic who doesn't care about "MY" truck cash to hopefully do the job right. i sprayed liquid wrench into all of the pockets where the plugs sit, blew out all of the debris. i used a impact wrench set on low where I could. The engine was cold. I only have 60,600 miles so that could have been a factor.
05-04-2016, 01:03 PM
#25
I just changed the spark plugs in my 04 F-150 5.4 and didn't break any of the plugs. i was definately nervous about doing the job but didn't want to give a mechanic who doesn't care about "MY" truck cash to hopefully do the job right. i sprayed liquid wrench into all of the pockets where the plugs sit, blew out all of the debris. i used a impact wrench set on low where I could. The engine was cold. I only have 60,600 miles so that could have been a factor.
09-08-2017, 05:41 PM
#26
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after watching 5 videos of guys doing this, I just finished it after having butterflies in my stomach all day about it. 8 out of 8 came out without breaking.
10-17-2020, 10:19 PM
#27
2007 STX special edition
The first one was a PITA and I had zero break. Pulled the COPS night before soaked in PB Blaster over night. Did NOT warm the engine also pulled PCM and bracket to reach the back one. I used a 6" extension with a 3" extension attached but mine allows the socket to pivot/swivel around which made it a piece of cake. Slow and steady. I used a copper anti sieve and replaced my COPS with MSD blaster COPS and havent had and issue with changing them again except when I was replacing the motor I had 1 bad plug and sent a friend to the parts store to get me another Motorcraft and they didnt have any so he got me a Bosch platinum and let just say this, the truck knew there was a fraud in the mix and it ran like **** all the way to another parts store who had the Motorcraft and changed it in the parking lot and it ran great again.
09-09-2021, 10:17 PM
#28
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My testing and results so far
I’ve been working on the same thing and trying to follow your instructions, I’m doing them one at a time for now and must note that it may be sacrificial to the plug boot, a product here in Canada called releasall but it isn’t the spray type, it’s a liquid bottle with a clear gear oil type cap and it’s really thin and runny, seems to have a solvent in it as the boot swelled, and it smells like this one assembly lube we had or oil of wintergreen (had that for doing rubber rejuvenation) there was no rust below the seal but also no antisieze anywhere, a bit of soft carbon was on the part that narrows, I used a medium sized hammer and turned the socket to rest on the hex and gave it a few good whacks and then used a torque wrench on reverse to break it free, 28ft lbs was what it came loose at and I switched it to 19 and did the back and forth but had to bring it back up closer to 25 each time I went too far and seated it again, after a while it got easier and it turned enough that seating it wasn’t a risk, I did the 20ft lbs thing (or 19) and it worked great, so well I was scared maybe it had already broke, but it didn’t, I only put fluid in once but the boot made sure it didn’t evaporate or anything, I put 3 cans of seafoam in while the low fuel warning was already on or almost on and ran the hell out of it beforehand, I also ran the hell right out of it a day or two before taking the plug out to let the releasall heat cycle, I’m going to do the same for this one but without using the hammer as I won’t be able to hammer the ones further back and I want to make sure things will go just as easily for them, I’m also doing the next two front ones before the back and will be soaking it for less time and on the one I will only soak it overnight and run it hard the next day, I won’t go above 30ftlbs without running back through the steps before, and I kinda wish I could have done testing at the scrapyard on ones that wouldn’t matter, that way I could see things like if it can break on just the first break away 1/4 turn, and what torque it would break at, also if using a 1/4 hex impact driver would yield better results or if it would just break them or do nothing, I would also like to still do those tests and also some soak tests on ones that do break plugs (some may just have easy to remove plugs) just to see if any of the running engine steps can be skipped, and how quickly it could work (like hours level quick)
For you guys changing plugs out tomorrow, here is a re-post of a how to success story. Good luck guys.
Change them cold.
Lots of nightmare and success stories on this board. I changed mine at 97,000 miles without any trouble whatsoever by doing the following.
1) Weekend before, do a Seafoam treatment to help remove the carbon build up.
2) Remove the ECM and bracket located on the passenger side to ease access to the rear plugs on that side.
3) Remove COPS, and thoroughly blow out plug wells with compressed air. (Not having a compressor, I picked up a accessory kit for the shop vac at Home Depot and used that.)
4) Spray just enough Kroil penetrating oil into the plug wells to almost cover the nut. DO NOT LOOSEN THE PLUGS YET! Let the plugs soak several hours. Some of the Kroil will get past the seat and literally melt the carbon build up even while the plug is still tight.
5) Start backing out the plugs. There will be a "snapping sound" when the seat is first broken. If the plug offers little or no resistance, just back it on out. 6 of 8 on mine came out without resistance past the first 1/4 turn at all. For the plugs that do offer resistance, pour a half cap-full of carburator cleaner in the the wells after the inital 1/4 turn. Patience. Let soak for at least 30 minutes. Set torque wrench to 20ft lbs and work back and forth until free. (Caution! Some torque wrenches only work for tightening. Alternatively, use a stubby ratchet, or simply use common sense and remain patient and do not apply excessive force)
6) Forget the Champion plugs. Use Motorcraft plugs. Apply a small amount of Nickel Anti Seize to the sleeve. One caution. The small anti seize packets sold at the parts store is not nickel. You'll have to buy the 8oz. can from either the Ford Dealer, or order it online.
This is important. Use just enough anti-seize to create a thin coat. Stay 1/4 inch back from the electrode. Failure to do so can cause a misfire.
Also, against common advice, apply a touch of anti-seize to the plug thread, staying away from the seat. This normally is not recommended because thinking is that when torquing the plug in, it results in a little more torque than the 25lbs recommended. Since the threads in the head are already lubricated by the Kroil, whats the difference? I was concerned that the penetrating oil on the threads could become varnish over time from heat and cause problems on the next change. Hence the application of a small amount of anti seize to the threads.
7) Inspect the COP boots carefully, and replace any that are cracked or stiff. I reused all of mine. Apply dielectric grease liberally to the inside of the boots.
If one decides to use the Champions, all the boots should be changed. The insulators are shaped different.
When reinstalling the COPS, turn them sideways away from their mounting points just enough so the cops can be firmly pushed down ensuring the spring engages the plug. Then turn back to the mounting position and install.
Good luck!
Change them cold.
Lots of nightmare and success stories on this board. I changed mine at 97,000 miles without any trouble whatsoever by doing the following.
1) Weekend before, do a Seafoam treatment to help remove the carbon build up.
2) Remove the ECM and bracket located on the passenger side to ease access to the rear plugs on that side.
3) Remove COPS, and thoroughly blow out plug wells with compressed air. (Not having a compressor, I picked up a accessory kit for the shop vac at Home Depot and used that.)
4) Spray just enough Kroil penetrating oil into the plug wells to almost cover the nut. DO NOT LOOSEN THE PLUGS YET! Let the plugs soak several hours. Some of the Kroil will get past the seat and literally melt the carbon build up even while the plug is still tight.
5) Start backing out the plugs. There will be a "snapping sound" when the seat is first broken. If the plug offers little or no resistance, just back it on out. 6 of 8 on mine came out without resistance past the first 1/4 turn at all. For the plugs that do offer resistance, pour a half cap-full of carburator cleaner in the the wells after the inital 1/4 turn. Patience. Let soak for at least 30 minutes. Set torque wrench to 20ft lbs and work back and forth until free. (Caution! Some torque wrenches only work for tightening. Alternatively, use a stubby ratchet, or simply use common sense and remain patient and do not apply excessive force)
6) Forget the Champion plugs. Use Motorcraft plugs. Apply a small amount of Nickel Anti Seize to the sleeve. One caution. The small anti seize packets sold at the parts store is not nickel. You'll have to buy the 8oz. can from either the Ford Dealer, or order it online.
This is important. Use just enough anti-seize to create a thin coat. Stay 1/4 inch back from the electrode. Failure to do so can cause a misfire.
Also, against common advice, apply a touch of anti-seize to the plug thread, staying away from the seat. This normally is not recommended because thinking is that when torquing the plug in, it results in a little more torque than the 25lbs recommended. Since the threads in the head are already lubricated by the Kroil, whats the difference? I was concerned that the penetrating oil on the threads could become varnish over time from heat and cause problems on the next change. Hence the application of a small amount of anti seize to the threads.
7) Inspect the COP boots carefully, and replace any that are cracked or stiff. I reused all of mine. Apply dielectric grease liberally to the inside of the boots.
If one decides to use the Champions, all the boots should be changed. The insulators are shaped different.
When reinstalling the COPS, turn them sideways away from their mounting points just enough so the cops can be firmly pushed down ensuring the spring engages the plug. Then turn back to the mounting position and install.
Good luck!