Hollabakzach23

Thanks for the links! I have a few radio shacks here in town I can check out for the diodes.

I found this from another website of the wires I'm looking for. Does this sound correct?


With factory keyless Drivers door is Black/Yellow, Passenger door is Black/Pink, Left rear door is Black/Lt.Blue, Right Rear Door is black/White , All wires are found at B.C.M. behind rear driver's side panel.


And I'll find the wires under the panels that run along the bottom of each door correct??

homer

Those are correct (at least for the two door I can definitely confirm it). If you're willing to pull the back seat out and access the BCM, that would be your ideal place to put the fix in. All of the wires in one spot rather than pulling up floor panels (although it's not hard to do either).


I've attached the connector view of the BCM, this should help as well.

homer

Also on the diode I meant you can get away with any 1N400x (1N4001, 1N4002, 1N4003... etc)

Hollabakzach23

Right on! I could never get the back seat out of my crew cab. I was going to mount an amp back there but I could never get the screw driver in the right spot or I wasn't pulling the seat up correctly or something but I couldn't get the darn thing out

homer

lol I know what you mean, I threw my amp in the dash... just got to watch heat.


If you go at the door floor panels and are using a voltmeter, use voltage not ohms. You risk burning something out if you try to measure resistance on the wrong wire. Just find a positive to put the +12V probe on... strip the wire back, put the ground on it and open the corresponding door to see if you have +12V and 0 (open) to confirm. It shouldn't take too long... I believe there is a black/pink wire in the drivers panel that is for reverse lights so that's why I say to test carefully (although I think it's a thicker wire).


You might even be able to follow the alarm wiring, they must have tied in somewhere close.

Hollabakzach23

Noted! I think they tied into on the passengers side somewhere but I haven't had enough time to check. Just a quick look while I was on break.

homer

No worries, if you have any questions just PM me or find me on here. I've done enough remote starts and alarms to hate them lol. I have mine quite customized, I made it so I can trigger the rear outside light for 2 minutes while loading my quad at night, etc... Hopefully that'll help you solve the issue though

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

This is a bit off topic but I do have a question... Every now and again when I use my remote start, the truck will run for 10 seconds, then shut off, and then automatically restart. It will repeat this process until I cancel it with the key in the ignition.. It doesn't normally do this on a cold engine, but it does seem to happen on a warm engine. Otherwise the remote start works great and this problem doesn't happen too often.. But today, on a hot motor, sure enough it shut down and restarted itself..
The last time this was happening my alternator incidentally burnt out a few weeks later. My battery is old so I'm wondering if this could be a low voltage issue? The tac signal? Coolant temp signal?...
Thanks for your anticipated input!

Hollabakzach23

I will be of no help to you but homer will probably get ya taken care of.

homer

Tach signal, is most likely what it is. I just fixed this on a Toyota Corolla with Viper remote start. What they did in their case was used alternator or voltage sensing. The problem is, the remote start doesn't think the vehicle successfully started, so it shuts down and retries. In their case, it would do it about 3 times then give up. Overall, it's really annoying and usually it's the installer being lazy and not adding the tach wire and using a true tach pickup. The alternator sensing and other methods work ok, but I'm personally not sold on them. I still hook the tach wire to either a fuel injector or a coil as I know it'll be a good signal. The only problem is in your case, if they didn't you're going to have to pull a wire through to the unit and then program the unit to use tach sensing. On the newer Fords (and other manufacturers) with Smart Start, you can get away without a tach sense for cranking because the computer takes over the start process but I still like the remote starter to know the truck is truly running.


Here's what I would check:


- What brand is your remote start?
- Under the hood, can you tell if a wire was tapped into any of the fuel injectors or coil on plug connectors? If so, it doesn't mean it was programmed in.
- Depending on the unit, I can tell you how to set the tach RPM.




Another thing I should throw out there is I commonly see remote starters tach start RPM set too high. Most manuals specifically state, set the tach RPM when the vehicle is warm (this may also be your case). Most shops don't have time to wait so they just start the vehicle, wait 30 seconds, then set the remote start tach. The problem that can happen here is the unit may not detect the vehicle is running OR worse, you start chewing up starters (and how often is a person next to their vehicle during remote start listening to their starter overrun - not very often! haha). So I always try to put that out there. Anytime someone tells me a remote start goes through starters, the first thing that comes to mind is it's overrunning.


You likely have one of those two scenarios: Tach RPM is not set correct or tach wire is not being used. Based on the older battery and/or alternator, I'm leaning towards your system is set to voltage/alternator sensing. Again, not my personal preferred method (depending on your brand I can walk you through how to change that).


I hope that makes sense?