Feathermerchant

My comment was not about the F150 A/C. It was about how high the A/C load in in Houston. If the big 3 were in Houston instead of Detroit, all A/C would probably work better. The heaters would suck though.

GDN

Everybody's mileage varies on these things, but I traded in a 2003 GMC last October - other than having the shrader vavles replaced about a year before it was traded it would freeze you out - that is Dallas, all summers included.

The two hottest days so far since I've had my '14 -it just acts like it's not even hot outside, not only does it cycle out too often, it won't even kick the fan up to high while it is on Auto. I'll read back through the thread this week to order the parts. I like the idea of adding the pot to the glovebox area. A little more complicated, but somewhat adjustable when needed.

I've been watching my vent temp for about a month and it won't drop below 46 and usually averages a few degrees above that. Time to fix what Ford can't get right.

papa tiger

Too much pressure an electric fans will run all the time. 36psi on the low side and 150 psi at idle on the high pressure side with near 90 degrees works well. Keeping the big dash kool somehow is best is imperative even laying a light colored towel on the right half of the dash top helps cool it quicker.
Believe a lot of the problem is coming from the factory with slightly too much 134a thus slightly too much oil in the system.

Suburb Cowboy

Roger that, sir... I installed it, and while I was out in the driveway doing it, the mosquitoes were eating me alive.


One thing I noticed is the high pressure and suction lines are SO close to one another that it's pretty obvious it'd help to insulate the suction line. Add to that, BOTH lines are about a foot away from the passenger-side exhaust manifold. Really, I see this isn't likely to be "the single solution," because there's actually ROOM under the hood (unlike a car), but it'll make a difference, and for the money, it's about as good as it gets (except for possible medical bills from treating Zika, Malaria, and West Nile while I was doing it!).


I had a Honda CR-V, and it'd freeze a ball or two. To be honest, so far, the weather here is just starting to get hot, and I haven't had my F-150 long enough to really know how well the AC works in real heat, but thus far, I think it's working well. In a month or two, I will know more...


I'm in the DFW area, which isn't usually as hot and humid as Houston, but I think we're in similar enough climates that comparing notes is beneficial - thank you for sharing!

Suburb Cowboy

QFT!

I wouldn't know what specs, but wonder if a thermistor (instead of a pot) might be better, so as the cab temp changes, the system will automatically adjust with it. But the specs would be pretty important - and then, do you want MORE resistance when the cab is HOTTER, or the other way around?

Feathermerchant

I grew up in Houston. First car was 1961 VW. No A/C. It was alway shot and humid. Typical day was 95°F and 95%RH. Overnight as the temp dropped it got more humid. The grass was wet, cars sweat, even the streets sweat. Dallas is a little hotter but not near as humid. Both heat and humidity load the A/C system.
Putting a resister across the sensor does lower the evaporator temperature but it also increases the chance of freezing the evaporator which results in no cooling as the ice blocks air flow. It also can result in liquid refrigerant returning to the compressor which can ruin it.

14STX5.0

I'm in the DFW area and I think the AC system works ok. I'm originally from Baton Rouge, and took a trip last week back home. The AC sucked with the added humidity on top of the heat. I couldn't get temps below 50 F at the vent. I can usually see vent temps around 44-46 F here in DFW.

Looks like I might insulate the lines or see what a pot will do with the wiring trick.

14STX5.0

Update: Insulated the line with some rubber Armaflex type insulation. With outside temps in upper 90s and even 100 F the other day, getting a consistent 2-4 F cooler vent temps. On an average day around 90-95 F, I can see 42 F vent temps after driving for a bit.

ThatGuy16

That is the suction line, leaving the evaporator (what makes the air cold). All you're really doing is keeping the engine heat off of that line, reducing the latent heat the condenser has to remove. You guys would probably see much better results if you wire in a very small electric fan and connect it near the condenser while your idling. This is why your A/C works much betting driving down the road, youre getting more air flow over the condenser. Sitting still, you don't have enough air flow to remove the latent heat from the refrigerant its carrying, causing higher pressures, causing higher evap temps, causing it to suck at idle.

304SILVERFX4

Has anyone had an issue where when having the AC on, fan speeds one and two do nothing, and the fan doesnt come on until speed 3? And speed 3 seems to blow as hard as 3 should. However, this problem doesnt occur when using the heater?

Anyone else have this problem or any ideas??