Wiring 20" light bar into high beams
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Wiring 20" light bar into high beams
I'm preparing to install a 20" LED light bar in the front bumper. Rather than installing this light with its own independent switch, I'm thinking of just wiring it into the high beam circuit. I don't think I would need it on while using low beams and having it on just by itself doesn't seem like something I'd need either. Has anyone else wired theirs like this and if so, how do you like it?
#2
Slednuck
Without a switch it's going to be every time your high beams are on. Pretty annoying for oncoming drivers if you're not extremely quick on the switch. Mine is wired through a relay and the relay triggers from the high beams through a switch so you can use high beams without the light bar on.
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kameronth (12-29-2015)
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Without a switch it's going to be every time your high beams are on. Pretty annoying for oncoming drivers if you're not extremely quick on the switch. Mine is wired through a relay and the relay triggers from the high beams through a switch so you can use high beams without the light bar on.
Where are people getting the light bar switches? My light bar didn't come as part of a kit so I didn't get a switch with it. I was just trying to prevent having to wire into the cab and mounting a switch. I just don't know what the frequency of need would be to turn the light off while the high beams were on.
#4
Senior Member
Without a switch it's going to be every time your high beams are on. Pretty annoying for oncoming drivers if you're not extremely quick on the switch. Mine is wired through a relay and the relay triggers from the high beams through a switch so you can use high beams without the light bar on.
#5
Senior Member
I'll certainly use a relay whether I use a switch or not. I'm not exactly sure what the current draw is on the light bar, but I'd rather the amp draw be directly on the battery via a relay than on the head light circuit. I don't want to push it close to the headlight circuit's fused rating. Where are people getting the light bar switches? My light bar didn't come as part of a kit so I didn't get a switch with it. I was just trying to prevent having to wire into the cab and mounting a switch. I just don't know what the frequency of need would be to turn the light off while the high beams were on.
#6
Senior Member
Had some lights in the grille of my 07 this way, up on with keyed power, center off, down on with high beams.
You need a Double throw, double pole switch. It will have 6 connectors.
Jump the 2 center poles together, yes they are supposed to be the hot input, but if you get a switch that doesn't back light it can be the ground or negative. Jump the 2 center pins to a relay pin 86.
Relay Pin 85 goes ground.
Relay pin 87 goes to light positive / fuse goes online here.
Relay pin 30 gets battery power
The diagram is crude if you can't understand it I can draw it clearer. Your grounds don't need to be the same connection, the just need to ground.
Attachment 407962
I might have pics of my install in my 07s thread in my sig.
You need a Double throw, double pole switch. It will have 6 connectors.
Jump the 2 center poles together, yes they are supposed to be the hot input, but if you get a switch that doesn't back light it can be the ground or negative. Jump the 2 center pins to a relay pin 86.
Relay Pin 85 goes ground.
Relay pin 87 goes to light positive / fuse goes online here.
Relay pin 30 gets battery power
The diagram is crude if you can't understand it I can draw it clearer. Your grounds don't need to be the same connection, the just need to ground.
Attachment 407962
I might have pics of my install in my 07s thread in my sig.
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RES4CUE (12-30-2015)
#7
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by RajunKajun59
Had some lights in the grille of my 07 this way, up on with keyed power, center off, down on with high beams.
You need a Double throw, double pole switch. It will have 6 connectors.
Jump the 2 center poles together, yes they are supposed to be the hot input, but if you get a switch that doesn't back light it can be the ground or negative. Jump the 2 center pins to a relay pin 86.
Relay Pin 85 goes ground.
Relay pin 87 goes to light positive / fuse goes online here.
Relay pin 30 gets battery power
The diagram is crude if you can't understand it I can draw it clearer. Your grounds don't need to be the same connection, the just need to ground.
Attachment 407962
I might have pics of my install in my 07s thread in my sig.
You need a Double throw, double pole switch. It will have 6 connectors.
Jump the 2 center poles together, yes they are supposed to be the hot input, but if you get a switch that doesn't back light it can be the ground or negative. Jump the 2 center pins to a relay pin 86.
Relay Pin 85 goes ground.
Relay pin 87 goes to light positive / fuse goes online here.
Relay pin 30 gets battery power
The diagram is crude if you can't understand it I can draw it clearer. Your grounds don't need to be the same connection, the just need to ground.
Attachment 407962
I might have pics of my install in my 07s thread in my sig.
Only has 3 terminals
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#8
Senior Member
Originally Posted by kidastra
Do this, but get a spdt on-off-on switch instead
Only has 3 terminals
Only has 3 terminals
#10
Member
You might want to check your State laws before you wire so they are always on with your brights. I know that in Indiana we are not "supposed" to run aux. lights past a certain wattage on the roads. That being said, I had the same set up on my Excursion with a switch but ran the relay power off of the high beams to the switch then to the relay. That way I was legal, could switch aux. lights completely off but when i turned them "on" the lights only worked with high beams. FYI
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tomjv (03-29-2017)