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Old 10-10-2012, 01:48 AM   #1
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Default Truck keeps dieing!

Just randomly keeps dieing during the night, not while driving..it's at ford for the second time and they are still telling me they don't know what's going on?? It's like something is being left on but I have everything unplugged and nothing is left on when I park it.. Anyone ever have this weird problem? Already tried changing the battery and for has check for codes, run diagnostics..they can't duplicate the problem they say, dunno how that would help but it's just weird..I sure would hate to have to claim lemon law on this truck, I really freaking love it..but if ford can't fix it then what am I left with?? Ima try a different dealership if they can't figure it out by tomorrow..??
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:12 AM   #2
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We need some truck details please. Year, trim, etc
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:27 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geritgoul View Post
Just randomly keeps dieing during the night, not while driving..it's at ford for the second time and they are still telling me they don't know what's going on?? It's like something is being left on but I have everything unplugged and nothing is left on when I park it.. Anyone ever have this weird problem? Already tried changing the battery and for has check for codes, run diagnostics..they can't duplicate the problem they say, dunno how that would help but it's just weird..I sure would hate to have to claim lemon law on this truck, I really freaking love it..but if ford can't fix it then what am I left with?? Ima try a different dealership if they can't figure it out by tomorrow..??


my first question...

does the truck have a remote starter or security system?

if so, flip the "valet" switch and let the truck sit for a few days.

they're located under the dash.

anyways, i'm only guessing here for now.

what has the dealerships tried?
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:08 AM   #4
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If they can't figure it out and you take it home, here is a very simple thing to do to find the drain.

1. Get a 12v test light or even a multi meter.
2. Disconnect the positive battery lead and put the test light/multi meter INLINE between the battery cable and the battery post
3. Set the truck just like you would if you were parking for the night
4. See if the test light is lit or multi meter is showing current on the 20v DC setting.
5. If either of #4 is yes, go to the fuse box and pull a fuse that you think might be the issue.
6. Test and repeat.
7. Keep doing this until you find the circuit that is causing the draw on the battery (test light not lit/meter showing no current)
8. In MOST cases it will be one fuse or two max. Look in owners manual to see what is in that circuit and disconnect items in that circuit one at a time until you find the culprit of the battery drain.


Even thou this test takes time and patience, it works every time. I've used it tons of times and I have to say that a lot of the time it ended up being a stereo or amp that was not turning off all the way. But the strangest one was an alternator that was causing a short to ground when the car was off.

Note: all stereos that keep time (have a clock) will cause a minor drain. This is normal and should be on the "memory" wire or fuse. I usually start with that fuse first and leave it disconnected after the first test. That should be the only circuit on the stereo that has any draw.
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:28 PM   #5
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Well the dealership just called and said they eventually found the alternator intermittently cutting on and off? I told them to check that first when I brought it to them the first time last week...why am I not convinced? Does this sound right to you guys?
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:31 PM   #6
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And bgrd351, if this does not fix it then I'm def gettin a fluke and give that a try..so far the dealership hasn't impressed me very much...I'm afraid they only know how to hook up a diagnostics cable but can't use a meter
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Old 10-10-2012, 01:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geritgoul
And bgrd351, if this does not fix it then I'm def gettin a fluke and give that a try..so far the dealership hasn't impressed me very much...I'm afraid they only know how to hook up a diagnostics cable but can't use a meter
I've used that exact setup for years. But as good as the meter is, I usually use a test light as it is easier to see from inside the vehicle. Otherwise you have to keep getting out of the truck to view the meter or maybe put the screen up against the windshield. But it is a good reason/excuse to buy that nice fluke you have been eyeing. :-)

As for dealers, when I was a mechanic in the 90's I would get cars all the time that they couldn't fix. But you have to remember, all mechanics make $$ by kicking out the most cars...not by working on one car all day. Plus, newer cars are so computer reliant that new mechanics don't know the old "shade tree" tricks.

As for the alternator, it could be the cause as I stated before. I had more than one that the regulator would go to ground like when the car was running thus acting like you had your lights on.
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Old 10-10-2012, 02:49 PM   #8
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It may be something as simple as a dead plate in the battery causing it to not hold a charge. I would have 'em replace it also. Good luck.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:09 PM   #9
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Sorry 2011 5.0 FX4...lol yes, don't need a fluke for much else at home for personal use but I would like to add it to my box..already replaced the battery with a new die hard, but of course in my experience just because it's new doesn't mean it's perfect..but I'm going to ride this one out and hopefully it doesn't have anymore problems, but if it doesn't the it's fluke time!
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