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You should determine your backspacing and width on your 20' rims and do some math. For example my stock backspacing was 5.5' on a 17 X 7.5 rim. My stock tires didn't stick out the fenders, they were probably about .5' inside the fender well. When I increased my rim to 17 X 9 X 4.75 backspacing it added 9 - 7.5 = 1.5 inches of potential tire stick out, which was reduced by backspacing. Stock backspacing of 5.5 less aftermarket rim backspacing of 4.75 = .75.
So the net increase in tire stick out would be 1.5 (potential) less .75 (reduced backspacing) = .75'. Then you should determine how much your tire is going to extend out past your rim. On my 9' wide rim my tire is about 11.25 wide. 11.25 - 9 wide rim = 2.25' of tire extending beyond the rim / 2 = 1.125 of tire extending beyond both the inner and outer rim. In this case we are only concerned with 1.125' at the outer rim because we are trying to figure out how much stick out there will be (not whether the inner rim and tire will clear suspension components). 1.125' outer tire stick out past the rim + .75 net increase in rim stick out gives you 1.875 of overall tire stick out. In real life I would say mine ended up a little less than 1.875.
It looks like a lot of work, and its not an exact science, but it should give you a ballpark idea of how different wheel/tire combos will end up on the truck. I too didn't want massive tire stick out. This photo shows where it ended up.
Yeah seems like a lot of math but i'll figure it out. and i saw that you have Bilsteins. Do you like those. I'm thinking about getting a pair as well. 5100s. I my truck to sit perfectly level so will that do it?
Was told to post my truck, runnin 315/70/17's on stock '06 STX rims, tires measure exactly to 34" on the truck. Can post more pics if yall want em. All I did was cut a small part off the very bottom of the inner fender, the front part. No rub anywhere, even when turning sharp at 20-30, or turning over speed bumps. Got a 2" leveling kit by HBS, no lift, 4x2 XL.
Forgot to include my tires are Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 2's, which are great I might add, and I paid $1,300 for everything: $100 for rims off craigslist, $1,200 for tires, lifetime alignments, install of rear blocks, and install of leveling kit. Firestone gave me a pretty good deal I believe
Thought Id throw these in for fun lol
09 F-150 XL - Flowmaster 40 series dumped, HBS leveling kit, ReadyLift rear 1.5" blocks, 315/70/17 Dueler AT Revo's, Smittybuilt bullbar w/Offroad Lights, 15% tint windows, 5% rear tint, K&N drop in, TruckChamp nerf bars, Raptor Taillights, black tailgate stripe, OEM flares, touchscreen sound system w/subs, blacked out Kobalt logo, front and rear Ford Logos, KC Fog Lights
Last edited by 09WhiteXL; 10-25-2010 at 10:36 PM.
Reason: Forgot Info.
Level is in the eye of the beholder. I thought it looked level after the front level only, but then after raising the back 1.25 I still think it is pretty level. The body of the truck fools the eye some. Check out this thread, I think it will answer your questions on where the truck will end up after Bilsteins alone are installed-
2010 2wd XLT Scab
265/70/18 Falken Rocky Mountain ATS ( Nittos were not available in this size, they didn't know when they were going to produce anymore)
NO Rubbing at all
My speedo is off by 2mph according to my Garmin GPS
Last edited by 12Supercrew; 10-28-2010 at 06:43 PM.
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