Thule roof rack install problems
#1
Thule roof rack install problems
Has anyone been able to install a Thule roof rack without any interference btw brackets and doors? I use 1521 fit kit, with 480r foots, and whatever I do, the top of the doors hit the brackets. I am able to close the doors without any problem, but if I bring them to contact with the brackets, I have to force them by a quarter inch in the front and a bit less for the back doors. You wont notice if you don't look, but there is a mark in the rubber coating of the bracket.
Any feedback? If you did it, how did you do it?
It' too bad, because the AeroBars look really good and are virtually silent compared to square sections.
Any feedback? If you did it, how did you do it?
It' too bad, because the AeroBars look really good and are virtually silent compared to square sections.
#3
Super nice setup, Moody!
Spoke to Thule, there were no help at all, spoke to Ors Rack Direct, nice guys but not much help either. Both told me interference was abnormal, and fit was "tricky" but not impossible. They spoke together and told me to over torque each foot by one full turn. Looked closer and I suggest you don't do that! The bracket from the rack grabs a gutter-style extrusion holding the seal, which is held by a rivet every foot. When torquing per spec, the extrusion bends a little. Overtorquing would bend it permanently. I finally showed the car to rack ultra guy, told me he could not do better, and all f150's he did were like that. He also said Yakima system was junk for f150.
Conclusion: read and follow the instructions to the t, and be ready to live with a small interference... Or use your grinder!
Still interested in your experience with the setup, though!
Will post pics when light is back outside, showing the best I could do.
Spoke to Thule, there were no help at all, spoke to Ors Rack Direct, nice guys but not much help either. Both told me interference was abnormal, and fit was "tricky" but not impossible. They spoke together and told me to over torque each foot by one full turn. Looked closer and I suggest you don't do that! The bracket from the rack grabs a gutter-style extrusion holding the seal, which is held by a rivet every foot. When torquing per spec, the extrusion bends a little. Overtorquing would bend it permanently. I finally showed the car to rack ultra guy, told me he could not do better, and all f150's he did were like that. He also said Yakima system was junk for f150.
Conclusion: read and follow the instructions to the t, and be ready to live with a small interference... Or use your grinder!
Still interested in your experience with the setup, though!
Will post pics when light is back outside, showing the best I could do.
#4
Palmetto Pride
Sounds good man I'd like to see this. I've seen a number of guys running a roof rack around here but never stopped to look closely. I did mine low over the bed cause when I go snowboarding up in Snow Shoe I typically end up having to park in a garage. I parked in there once in a 2 wheel drive expedition with a Yakima roof rack and board racks and actually scrapped the plumbing in there...this wasn't lifted just a stock 07. So I decided to go my route. It's nice cause it works with my roll up cover so gear and luggage stays dry if we run into weather. Also the rack slides to the cab so if I need to use the full bed I can.
#5
Ok, so here is the update:
I played around and best fit was with .5cm extra distance each side, and exact thule instructions dim on the rear. Also gained a few thousands by folding upwards the inboard lip of the weather strip in order to let the extremity of bracket touch the car frame. Even like this, there is still a fouling.
This picture show the door before forcing it closed.
I went to Rack Ultra and the guy told me he never did better and that it was ok on a long run. He also told me fit was better than Yakima, which would damage the roof. Finally, he predicted leaks in heavy rain. Of course, heavy rain came and it leak (one drop every 10 min driving, a few drop overnight, right on the windows buttons. Nothing in the back.). Found a fix with 1/4 inch closed cell neoprene tape. (picture below)
Finally, got upset and rid of the whole thing. Will post new setup over the bed.
One tip: put silicone grease on the seal where you compress it, it will come back to shape a1 when removing he rack.
Finally a nice pic:
I played around and best fit was with .5cm extra distance each side, and exact thule instructions dim on the rear. Also gained a few thousands by folding upwards the inboard lip of the weather strip in order to let the extremity of bracket touch the car frame. Even like this, there is still a fouling.
This picture show the door before forcing it closed.
I went to Rack Ultra and the guy told me he never did better and that it was ok on a long run. He also told me fit was better than Yakima, which would damage the roof. Finally, he predicted leaks in heavy rain. Of course, heavy rain came and it leak (one drop every 10 min driving, a few drop overnight, right on the windows buttons. Nothing in the back.). Found a fix with 1/4 inch closed cell neoprene tape. (picture below)
Finally, got upset and rid of the whole thing. Will post new setup over the bed.
One tip: put silicone grease on the seal where you compress it, it will come back to shape a1 when removing he rack.
Finally a nice pic:
Trending Topics
#8
Originally Posted by turbochad
Thanks for the info! I was just looking at racks for mine this past weekend. I really want to do roof though Over the bed really doesn't do me much good.
#9
I have the Thule setup. The tops of he doors have very, very little clearance between the clips. If any at all. Thule dropped the ball on this setup. I worked on the installation for hours with a dozen phone calls to Thule. Hey said I was the only one that had ever called a out his problem.
The trick is to move the foot as far inward as possible while still being able to fit the clip over the weatherstripping. His will change the angle of the clip and gain the clearance you need. The contour on he bottom of the foot will fit perfectly in the drip rail on the roof. Ignore this. If you put the foot that far out the door will always hit the clip.
It's a crummy fit, but there a no options.
The trick is to move the foot as far inward as possible while still being able to fit the clip over the weatherstripping. His will change the angle of the clip and gain the clearance you need. The contour on he bottom of the foot will fit perfectly in the drip rail on the roof. Ignore this. If you put the foot that far out the door will always hit the clip.
It's a crummy fit, but there a no options.
#10
Nuthin' up my sleeves...
Thanks, in advance....