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Thinking about a leveling kit,think again

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Old 09-15-2015, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by mlheck
The travel you lose in on the downward stroke. The suspension only has a given amount of travel. Lets just say 6" for this example. The truck will set at about the halfway point of that travel. The travel I'm talking about has to do with parts making contact with each other, not spring travel. Using our example you would have 3" of up travel and 3" of down travel at stock. When you had a 2" spacer you have now used up 2" of your down travel. Thus leaving you only 1" before things hit, which isn't much.

The amount of travel in the strut and spring doesn't change, it's the hard parts that effect this.

Thanks man
Old 09-16-2015, 03:47 AM
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I'll be ditching my 2 inch pro comp level whenever the boss lady lets me get to it. I'm going through the hiring process at a different fire department and once everything is final, I'll be snagging myself a significant pay increase. I've been told that I can have some new toys as a reward for some recent accomplishments, a lift or coil overs is one of them.

Yesterday I saw a blue FX4 with fox coil overs and raptor wheels on 35 inch bfg's and couldn't stop staring.

I've only had my level about a 2 months but there's still more to be desired for me. And that god awful noise at full lock makes my ears bleed.
Old 09-16-2015, 07:37 AM
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So I'm getting my power steps put on today. I get that clunk at full lock every once in a while. I guess I hardly fully lock. Anyway, I'm going to tell my guy to apply grease to the bump stop and see if that fixes the problem. Useful thread if it does.

I love my level lift. It gives it just enough of a different look. Plus I went with 4ply 33x12.5 tires. What a difference in ride over the 10 ply tires.
Old 09-16-2015, 08:52 AM
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On a leveling kit the ride will become stiffer because you don't address the angles of the a arms. They will be pointing downwards thus transmitting more bumps into the frame and you. Lift kits drop the lower arms and give you raised knuckles to flatten out the arms
Old 09-16-2015, 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by snobdds
Anytime a spring is compressed, it has stored energy. When you compress that spring more, with a spacer, there is more spring energy stored. When you hit a bump and the spring extends and released that energy...that is preload. The further that spring compresses, the more preload.

Strut spacers do affect preload. Sir.
Originally Posted by cutigers08
No they dont. The spring assembly is exactly the same with or without a strut spacer. They spring preload is set by the strut mount. The spacer sits on top of the whole deal
This. It will change the geometry and impact down travel (which is why many will hear the UCA hit the spring on full droop), but it does not add preload to the spring.
Old 09-16-2015, 09:46 AM
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This is one of the reason I strongly suggest against modifying suspensions. If looks is more important than having a truck function and perform as they should then so be it.
Old 10-09-2015, 08:19 AM
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And here I was thinking about getting a leveling kit when my stock Goodyears are toast. I drive my truck almost 150 miles a day (commuter queen) but I also use it to haul a pull on the weekends. I wanted to raise up the front a little bit, but that noise that you all say that it makes is making me second guess my future plans.

Maybe a 1.5" would be good. With a load in the bed, I don't want the nose to be sticking up into the air. Any levels / lift-levels that don't make the front end components knock into each other? That just sounds like a problem waiting to happen.

I was also thinking about mpgs. I have the 3.31 rear and constantly get above 20 mpg on my commuting trips. If the level drops it roughly 2mpg, and a 33" tire would take it down a couple more, maybe I just get a more aggressive looking stock-like size tire. hmmm
Old 10-09-2015, 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Averysm09
And here I was thinking about getting a leveling kit when my stock Goodyears are toast. I drive my truck almost 150 miles a day (commuter queen) but I also use it to haul a pull on the weekends. I wanted to raise up the front a little bit, but that noise that you all say that it makes is making me second guess my future plans.

Maybe a 1.5" would be good. With a load in the bed, I don't want the nose to be sticking up into the air. Any levels / lift-levels that don't make the front end components knock into each other? That just sounds like a problem waiting to happen.

I was also thinking about mpgs. I have the 3.31 rear and constantly get above 20 mpg on my commuting trips. If the level drops it roughly 2mpg, and a 33" tire would take it down a couple more, maybe I just get a more aggressive looking stock-like size tire. hmmm
That's why I went with the Bilstein 5100 shocks set at the 2nd notch from the top. Gained 1-1/2 inches in height in the front and with the Bilsteins in the rear not much sagging with a 2 to 3K pound load. I'm running P rated Toyo's that are only 43 lbs ea. so not much of a fuel mileage hit either...kind of a compromise all the way around!


Old 10-09-2015, 11:49 AM
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I also would recommend the use of the bilstein 5100's set at 1.5" setting. The Bilsteins limit the down travel therefore will not over extend the ball joints/cvs etc which creates more wear and tear. Now, it still isn't ideal because your geometry is no longer in spec and will still lower the life of these components, but it is what it is. Haven't had any issues with noises etc. even at full lock. To remedy rear end sag you can do an add a leaf in the rear and remove the stock blocks so the rear won't be to high. It's what I did.
Old 10-09-2015, 03:10 PM
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No 5100's for 2014's yet...waiting...


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