Darth Bama

Happens a lot more then you'd imagine. It seems to have dropped a little. Several years back it was becoming a problem!

aliva

I just installed a power lock on my gate, locks the gate with the remote, so Im not fumbling with key. The whole install cost me about $20.00, and few hours of labour. Well worth it.

2009 XLT,XTR Screw

ejr

How about a write-up, with parts, $$, install details, etc. Major points if ya do.
Pics would be awesome too.
Thx.

nitroback

I would definitely like more details on the power locking tailgate.

Thunderslide

X3

txff636

I'm very interested too.

flareside93

my '93 doesnt have a locking tailgate lol

speed4tu

I have never thought about tailgate theft, but after reading this, I will lock mine from now on. I guess the tailgate step and rear camera I have could make it more appealing to steal as well.

gsxr1300

I just tried to lock my tailgate and the key doesnt seem to turn it enough to lock am I doing it wrong?

aliva

Here's a link to a very good procedure I used as a guide to my install

http://members.***.net/kinzerford/F-...gate_Lock.html




I modifieyed the install slightly. The actuator comes with a round actuator rod, but it has a tendency to slip, so I used a piece of 1/8" key stock, which happens to fit perfictly in the actuator eyelet. The keystock also attaches more securly to the lock plasctic plate, with zip ties.

Due to the lay out of my tailgate, I had limited choices in mounting locations( I also wanted ease of accesability). I cut a pice of 1/8" stainless steel plate,and drilled and tapped 2, 10-24 holes and secured the plate to the gate.

Since my choice of locations was limited , I had to mount the actuator at a slight angle in relation to the lock mechanisim, in order for it to operate smoothly. ( I found this out by trial and error) Because of this I could not use both actuator mounting holes, using both holes caused the actuator rod to bind. The actuator moves in a straight line , but the lock plate moves in an arc. So I used only 1 mounting hole. This allowed the actuator to pivot as it moved the lock plate. I secured the actuator with 1, 6-32 machine screw and double nutted it, and applyed Loctie red thread locker.

To prevent the actuator rod from ever moving lateraly, I installed 2 locking clips on either side the actuator eye.( probly overkill but Im happier). The clips are from a terminal block I had in my junk drawer.

Now the wiring, very straight forward. Using 3/8" plastic wire loom, ( use plastic wire loom to protect the wires from the elements, and secure it to the gate to take up any strain) I ran the 2 wires from the actuator thru the tailgate bottom access hole to a hole in the truck bed, thru and around the frame to the drivers side rear door sill.I was forunate that there was alredy a unused hole and gromet located at the bottom of the sill.I then ran the wires to the drivers side sill and connected them to the lock and unlock wires located in the wiring bundle using Scotchlok or equal wire taps. You'l notice in the "wring JPEG" 2 blue butt splices, I had to add these later because of a wrie routing problem, just disregaurd them.

Before making the final connections check the wires in the bundle to be sure you get a 12 volt signal ONLY when you activate the lock and unlock using your remote.I read that there maybe a second wire of similar colour that has a constant 12 volts, you don't want that one.
Thats it. Hope this helps.

Parts used:
1 12volt dorr lock actuator from Princess Auto P/N 8008425 $6.00
Wire and wire loom any auto supply store $15.00
stainless Steel Plate approx 3 1/2"x4 1/2"
Machine screws
1 1/8" key stock
2 Wire taps
Zip ties

Lock and Unlock wire colours for the 09 Screw.

Grey/Black Unlock
Light Blue/Light Green Lock