11_Platinum

I have a seized brake caliper on the front passenger side and the dealer wants $1100 to replace both front calipers, both rotors, and new pads. I've done brake work in the past and think that's ridiculous. I was told that you need an electronic device to bleed out the ABS properly, so that's what's holding me back from doing it myself. Any other alternatives to doing it properly? I was thinking of just doing it the old way and then just drive it to the shop so they can bleed the ABS or lines again. What do you guys think? Thanks.

73fxe

That's what I would do. Do the work Yourself, and have them bleed the system.

Sarkyman2000

Looking at alldata direction don't mention any special procedures. I would do the work myself.
Drive by wire braking is only time a special tool is needed. Example is Mercedes SBC braking, I do many of them also.

Well I wouldn't run master empty. Just setup so the brake line swap is fast.

Feathermerchant

Some info from the Ford manual:
NOTE: The Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) bleeding procedure must be carried out if the HCU or any components upstream of the HCU are installed new.

That requires using the IDS or other system. But the calipers are DOWNSTREAM from the HCU.

It also says: Pressure bleeding the brake system is preferred to manual bleeding.

RLXXI

Forscan.org, d/l the program, get an elm 327 or equivalent and you will have the ability to bleed the hcu your self. More info on this link,... https://www.f150forum.com/f38/forsca...ations-349018/


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11_Platinum

Thanks, for the info guys. I did the work myself but still spent around $800 just for the ****ing parts. OEM calipers and rotors. Ceramic brake pads, bleeder kit, brake fluid, and some ceramic lube from Napa auto parts. When I bled the side that had the seized caliper I got some cloudy fluid out of it and I saw some black plastic looking crap out of it too. I bled both sides until it was clear fluid. I also bled the rear passenger side and that was a dingy orange color. I tried to bleed the driver rear but the ****ing bleeder was rusted and I didn't want to snap it trying to get it to open. Is it OK to apply heat to a caliper that is still in use? I'm using penetrating oil in the meantime to see if it will eventually open. Maybe I'll apply naval jelly on the bleeder and surrounding area to dissolve the rust. Any ideas?

Magnetic5.0

Did you replace the rubber hoses to the caliper too? The black plastic looking crap could be the lining of the hose, which prevents the caliper from releasing completely.

Feathermerchant

PB blaster seems to work well on rust. Heat may cause problems for the seal and slider bolts. But as a last resort and used carefully probably OK. Try to heat only the caliper and not the bleeder. Or the bleeder and not the caliper. Differential temperature = differential expansion. At the worst it may be new caliper time. I call it the rust belt tax.

Sarkyman2000

A little heat won't hurt. Just think brakes can get pretty hot. I believe dot 4 is 400 degrees. Even than that's just fluid, Another bleed. Worth a try. I use heat and an impact on stuck bolts.

11_Platinum

Never gave it a thought. No I did not replace the hoses. So you think the hose is collapsing when the wheel cylinder is retracting?

I've been told that seized calipers are not uncommon on F150s. Any techs out there that can validate this info? What exactly causes the problem? Is it from collapsible brake hoses? Thanks again!