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Old 03-12-2010, 04:19 PM   #1
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Default Recon Bed Light Install Guidelines

So I recently purchased a set of Recon Bed Lights and I'm extremely pleased with them. I have them wired to my cargo / interior lights, but you can wire to a magnet or other switch to your tailgate or even a switch inside if you wanted. Here's what I did (first write up, so forgive the mistakes).

Once purchased, unbox and measure where you want each light. I started 12" in on each end of the bed, then measured each light 14" from each other. (If you're a math wiz, that's 66" or 5'5" in length). I used this because it looks very stock, consistent and puts the lights at the exact same spot on each side. I found it best to attach the sticky tape to the side of the light, not behind it ... then attach the light to the side of your bed rail. It lowers the light slightly in to the bed and tilts them ever so slightly so that they're pointing towards the middle of the truck. They aren't noticable from a 'standing up' position but aren't blocked by the rails at all.

Click the image to open in full size.

At the front of the bed you will have all the left over wire. You can tuck this in to an area between the bed and the cab. If you look closely, there is actually a spot that has a slit on it that fits the line perfectly so you don't have a loose wire dangling between the cab and the bed. Here's a pic of it, but its hard to see (given I took the picture after the fact). Its under my BakFlip panel but gives you an idea of the location.

Click the image to open in full size.

Maybe its easier to see if I back the picture up a little. In an effort to fully confuse you, I switched sides of the truck when I took this pic compared to the last one.

Click the image to open in full size.

Run the wire down under the truck. I tucked my wires in to the frame and took them to the front of the vehicle so they were protected.

Click the image to open in full size.

Pull them up in to the engine bay (keeping the line taut so it doesn't slack in to any moving parts). My wires weren't long enough for the journey to the front, so you'll notice they changed colors along the way. Green = ground. I used an existing set of wires that were grounded in the engine bay and simply added on to them. I wish I hid it better but I guess its good for this purpose.

Click the image to open in full size.

The positive wire runs inside. I found an existing grommet next to the steering column and just simply pushed this in the middle of that group of wires. I grabbed it from the inside and was surprised at how easy it was to pull through. Here, yellow = hot (remember my wires needed lengthened, so they changed colors).

Click the image to open in full size.

Once inside you will find a gray wire with a purple stripe in the kick panel on the driver's side. Tap in to this wire, its your interior lights. No need for a relay, these lights don't take enough energy to warrant all the extra wiring.

Go back to the rear of the truck and test your lights. They should come on when you open the door or use the interior switch, just like with your cargo light.

Once satisfied, simply use the included wire clips to tie up the excess wire behind your bed rail or tuck it behind your bed liner (if you have one). Both methods will hide the wire from anyone's line of sight, which for some reason I don't have a picture of. The first picture above is me performing my test.

This will light up your bed more than you're expecting.

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by sharper4; 11-11-2010 at 10:38 AM.
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Old 03-12-2010, 09:41 PM   #2
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Nice post. Great pictures. Thank you.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:28 AM   #3
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Good write up and information. It looks good too.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:39 AM   #4
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I am so upset my dealer installed and cut a switch into my dash instead of tapping the interior lights. I am going to be getting them to replace the panel and I will tap the wire.

Did you fuse it?
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heckler View Post
I am so upset my dealer installed and cut a switch into my dash instead of tapping the interior lights. I am going to be getting them to replace the panel and I will tap the wire.

Did you fuse it?
I don't know that its absolutely necessary (given the tiny draw it takes) but yes, I threw an in-line fuse in just to be careful.

I'm floored that your dealer cut in to your dash. It seems like a no brainer for the bed lights to come at the same time as the cargo light.
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Old 03-13-2010, 05:24 PM   #6
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That's what i thought so I did not give specific directions. In the end it will work out as they had to take even more off the truck. The bed lights were free. I am going to tap the wire and put a relay in along with a switch in the box that will work off either the dome lights or constant power. End result should be good. As for the hole in the dash I will have a use for it. It is low down and I can't see it while driving. As with most people on this forum we have very good taste and specific requirement. I am sure for the last 100 the dealer installed it was fine but I am guessing these folks don't have the same passion for vehicles.
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Old 03-13-2010, 05:25 PM   #7
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On a similar not I have not tried to remove the kick panel yet. Is it the standard clips or are there some "hidden" screws?
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
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On a similar not I have not tried to remove the kick panel yet. Is it the standard clips or are there some "hidden" screws?
Standard clips. Just pull.
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Old 01-29-2012, 05:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I don't know that its absolutely necessary (given the tiny draw it takes) but yes, I threw an in-line fuse in just to be careful.
* * *
ALWAYS fuse!
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Old 01-29-2012, 08:19 PM   #10
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^agreed

plus you might want to put some split loom over your wires, from what I can see they are going to rub the frame and short out and it will clean it up.
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