Orange Peel Fix
11-10-2012, 12:42 AM
#1
Brianm825
Thread Starter
Orange Peel Fix
Well I was sitting in my truck today outside a popular deli in the "industrial core" around lunch today and had a couple guys come up to compliment my truck and ask about my exhaust system (Solo Performance Mach X Dual for the record 
). Both were die-hard Ford boys that had retired from Ford's plant in Oakville, ON and were driving new F150's, a 2010 and a 2011. While they liked my truck, they both pointed out "That s#!tty Ford orange peel paint job." Both of 'em raised enough stink to have their's repainted (one driver's side and tailgate, the other was all the panels but the roof). As these were the 7th or 8th people to me about my "weird" "dimpled" or "golf ball" paint job it really started to **** me off as the day went on. My truck is going in for the leaky transmission fix on Monday and I'm seriously starting to consider pushing for a paint job now as well.
I'm wondering if some of the paint boys like Mbullock might wanna chime in here. What's involved in fixing the orange peel? Do they reshoot the clear and then polish? Wet sand the whole truck, redo paint and clear? I'm just kinda trying to weigh the long term durability of a shop's repaint vs. having to look at the factory orange peel that's on there now. I've also got other paint issues; bubbles and dirt on the roof that I fixed my self, missing paint on the bottoms of doors, panels. Anyone else have experience getting these issues resolved? Any recommendations for helpful dealerships in Ontario, Canada?
). Both were die-hard Ford boys that had retired from Ford's plant in Oakville, ON and were driving new F150's, a 2010 and a 2011. While they liked my truck, they both pointed out "That s#!tty Ford orange peel paint job." Both of 'em raised enough stink to have their's repainted (one driver's side and tailgate, the other was all the panels but the roof). As these were the 7th or 8th people to me about my "weird" "dimpled" or "golf ball" paint job it really started to **** me off as the day went on. My truck is going in for the leaky transmission fix on Monday and I'm seriously starting to consider pushing for a paint job now as well. I'm wondering if some of the paint boys like Mbullock might wanna chime in here. What's involved in fixing the orange peel? Do they reshoot the clear and then polish? Wet sand the whole truck, redo paint and clear? I'm just kinda trying to weigh the long term durability of a shop's repaint vs. having to look at the factory orange peel that's on there now. I've also got other paint issues; bubbles and dirt on the roof that I fixed my self, missing paint on the bottoms of doors, panels. Anyone else have experience getting these issues resolved? Any recommendations for helpful dealerships in Ontario, Canada?
11-10-2012, 08:47 AM
#3
There are ups and downs to both. I personally wet sanded and buffed mine.
Lots of people say you can burn through...and you can. I'm not saying they're wrong. But my experience? That happens mostly on white colored vehicles. But also, if the shop you take it to is less than reputable, you may also have to deal with swirl marks the rest of your life! haha!
But on the flip side, my flattest paint jobs come from sanding existing clear flat, and re shoot. But there are downfalls to this as well. You may have tape line in the jambs now. There will be dust nibs that will need to be sanded and buffed anyway. And fresh clear from a body shop will need a minimum of 30 days before you can put a "real" (silicone based...waxes are not allowed in body shops) wax on it. The factory clear can be waxed right away.
It will look good either way...as long as it goes to a good shop! Keep that in mind. Or it well look like crap either way, if it goes to a crap shop!
Lots of people say you can burn through...and you can. I'm not saying they're wrong. But my experience? That happens mostly on white colored vehicles. But also, if the shop you take it to is less than reputable, you may also have to deal with swirl marks the rest of your life! haha!
But on the flip side, my flattest paint jobs come from sanding existing clear flat, and re shoot. But there are downfalls to this as well. You may have tape line in the jambs now. There will be dust nibs that will need to be sanded and buffed anyway. And fresh clear from a body shop will need a minimum of 30 days before you can put a "real" (silicone based...waxes are not allowed in body shops) wax on it. The factory clear can be waxed right away.
It will look good either way...as long as it goes to a good shop! Keep that in mind. Or it well look like crap either way, if it goes to a crap shop!
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Wanted33 (11-12-2012)
11-10-2012, 06:31 PM
#4
Brianm825
Thread Starter
There are ups and downs to both. I personally wet sanded and buffed mine.
Lots of people say you can burn through...and you can. I'm not saying they're wrong. But my experience? That happens mostly on white colored vehicles. But also, if the shop you take it to is less than reputable, you may also have to deal with swirl marks the rest of your life! haha!
But on the flip side, my flattest paint jobs come from sanding existing clear flat, and re shoot. But there are downfalls to this as well. You may have tape line in the jambs now. There will be dust nibs that will need to be sanded and buffed anyway. And fresh clear from a body shop will need a minimum of 30 days before you can put a "real" (silicone based...waxes are not allowed in body shops) wax on it. The factory clear can be waxed right away.
It will look good either way...as long as it goes to a good shop! Keep that in mind. Or it well look like crap either way, if it goes to a crap shop!
Lots of people say you can burn through...and you can. I'm not saying they're wrong. But my experience? That happens mostly on white colored vehicles. But also, if the shop you take it to is less than reputable, you may also have to deal with swirl marks the rest of your life! haha!
But on the flip side, my flattest paint jobs come from sanding existing clear flat, and re shoot. But there are downfalls to this as well. You may have tape line in the jambs now. There will be dust nibs that will need to be sanded and buffed anyway. And fresh clear from a body shop will need a minimum of 30 days before you can put a "real" (silicone based...waxes are not allowed in body shops) wax on it. The factory clear can be waxed right away.
It will look good either way...as long as it goes to a good shop! Keep that in mind. Or it well look like crap either way, if it goes to a crap shop!
11-10-2012, 07:45 PM
#5
Gearhead
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I'd leave well enough alone unless your fixin to create a show truck. Color sanding/wet sanding will take care of the orange peel but like stated, you will be losing clearcoat thickness which will then become a problem a few years later.
Ford sure won't eat the cost for a complete re-clear. Figure on getting off your wallet if you want show car quality.
Ford sure won't eat the cost for a complete re-clear. Figure on getting off your wallet if you want show car quality.
11-10-2012, 08:23 PM
#6
Originally Posted by Tussin_Wolf
I hear you. If it were to go to a good shop for a fix, what would they typically do if they were going to re-paint? I'm just wondering how aggressively they would sand the factory finish. Do I lose much of the factory protection or would they basically smooth out the clear and paint over it? Or would they even go that far? Just clean to prep the factory paint then go over it? Would they essentially be stripping the factory coat and doing a new coat or would I just end up with a second coat over the factory paint?
If i were to do it (and this is the only answer i can give) i would sand the whole truck with 600-800 grit sand paper. And only to flatten the paint...honestly i wouldn't even go near the edges. I wouldn't concern yourself with losing the factory protection to much...as it will be replaced with the new clear. All car refinish paint will have UV protection in it. If you've ever seen s cup of mixed clear it will have a slightly yellowish tinge to it, that's the UV protection. If i burned through, that would be the only time i would put any color on it.
11-10-2012, 08:26 PM
#7
Originally Posted by Jus Cruisin
I'd leave well enough alone unless your fixin to create a show truck. Color sanding/wet sanding will take care of the orange peel but like stated, you will be losing clearcoat thickness which will then become a problem a few years later.
Ford sure won't eat the cost for a complete re-clear. Figure on getting off your wallet if you want show car quality.
Ford sure won't eat the cost for a complete re-clear. Figure on getting off your wallet if you want show car quality.
But if you take off too much clear...then yes, you are correct. There will be issues.
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11-10-2012, 11:01 PM
#8
Brianm825
Thread Starter
I noticed the problems as soon as I picked up the truck so I'm not TOO upset, but like I said, I'm just getting sick and tired of people saying "nice truck...did you paint it yourself?" hahaha.
I actually have repainted a few old F150's; one in candy red, one in a metallic grey and a couple cargo trailers...they had about as much orange peel as my current truck. Only difference being I painted those with a $80 spray gun in my driveway, haha.
Last edited by Tussin_Wolf; 11-10-2012 at 11:06 PM.
11-11-2012, 12:15 AM
#9
The only paint gun you will ever see in my hand is a SATA. I agree with mbullock. 800 or 1000 grit would be my choice and then reclear with a good clear. I use PPG paint I would use any of the deltron concept clears. Spray three coats. Wet sand with 1500 then 2000 then 2500 and buff it with a foam compounding pad. Then polish with polishing pad and glazing material. You won't ever have to worry about it fading or anything. All you need is two mils of film build for uv protection. With three coats of clear you will be around four to four and a half. After cut and buffing you will only remove about one maybe a little more. Then enjoy the new shine and good comments.
11-11-2012, 08:51 AM
#10
Originally Posted by 68ss396
The only paint gun you will ever see in my hand is a SATA. I agree with mbullock. 800 or 1000 grit would be my choice and then reclear with a good clear. I use PPG paint I would use any of the deltron concept clears. Spray three coats. Wet sand with 1500 then 2000 then 2500 and buff it with a foam compounding pad. Then polish with polishing pad and glazing material. You won't ever have to worry about it fading or anything. All you need is two mils of film build for uv protection. With three coats of clear you will be around four to four and a half. After cut and buffing you will only remove about one maybe a little more. Then enjoy the new shine and good comments.
We use PPG envirobase. With (i think its a deltron clear) DC4000 clear. SATA...is the way to go. My 4000 RP, sprays a coat of glass.
Also OP, Ford uses PPG at the factory. And if they use waterbased paint (envirobase), which i believe they do (since 2005), clearing over waterbased paint before it gets a full flash off time, causes tightening in the clear...and will cause mad orange peel. I have done this before...trying to hurry through a job. Ended up screwing myself.