When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Also... Now I want to do my Closed Trailer... does anyone know If we can get the rolls in a LARGER Length...? say 20ft...? if so can you please send me a link..
Thanks guys..!!
The only ones I saw that were longer than 20ft were 10M strips, but they were also 24v. I think you start drawing too much current through those strips at those lengths. The specs say a 10M would draw around 10A. They usually sell 20ga wire with those kits, which has a max rating of 11A. You probably wouldn't have a problem at 20ft, if you can find a longer 12V strip.
Yeah... that's my issue... I just need 18' to be exact. I know I can solder the 2 additional feet that I need, but I think it will look sloppy... so if anyone know's of 12v 20ft lengths, please post a link... thanks...
Took on the bed light project this weekend. It went pretty well, with a lot of prep work. I think the hardest part was running the cable to the battery cleanly.
I went with warm white 3000K instead of bright white 6000K, because I’m not a fan of the bluish tint. I tried to find natural white, 4500K, but could find any that were 5050 LEDs.
FYI: There are several different types of LED trips, here are the basic differences.
1. 3528 – Dimmest, lowest power LED – 1A per 3M
2. 5050 – Brighter, more power – 2A per 3M
3. 5630 – Brightest, most power – 6A per 3M
I went to 5050 to keep it around 2A for the whole strand.
Here is my initial wiring diagram
I have the 5.5 bed and measure the inside lengths at about 60” inches. I made each of the three lengths 57” to allow for wiring, but that was still a little long. I think 55” would be about right.
All the parts laid out and getting ready to go.
Wiring the connector was easy. Just trim the end with an exacto knife and simple solder.
I used pigtail connector between the source and each of the three section so that can be easily replaced if there are any issues.
Two finished section together.
Quick test in the house before putting them in the truck.
Since I have a bedrug I am just using velco to stick the lights to the top of the bedrug instead of the bed rails. As others have said, the 3M on the back of the lights and comes off easy. It could ground to the truck rail pretty easily. I would use additional double sided tape, or foam tape to stick them on.
Pin switch installed
3 way switch, and wires coming through stock hole.
Completed at night
I am going to use the same method to install bed lights. I just can't see, to see where or how you grounded everything? Just wondering if you could help?
I am going to use the same method to install bed lights. I just can't see, to see where or how you grounded everything? Just wondering if you could help?
When you look at his wiring diagram all the grounds are run to the switches.
Grounding is easy. Drop your spare tire. You will find a wire screwed to the top left side of the cross beam located to the rear of the tire. Loosen it, connect a crimp terminal to a wire and hook it to the same screw and tighten it. I bought a large round one and cut the end to slide it under the screw. I connected a trailer wire set to it to provide three grounds and a plug. Used one for bed lights on switch, one for bed lights on mercury switch when I lower tailgate, and one for future.
I had lights on last truck on a mercury switch in the tailgate. About halfway down they would turn on. Purchased a new truck and I installed lights yesterday on a lighted push-button switch in the bed. Button sits flush with the bed in one of the holes pre-stamped for the bed-extender. I only use the hole when it is extended, which I rarely have to do. When I do, I still have one side to insert the post to keep it from bouncing around...good enough. The button also stays lit while lights are off so you can see it in the dark.
11-10-2014, 04:20 PM
