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Yep, dam i have tried all the ways. Except the ground post which is the gold terminal on both switches i tested. I even brought out the meter and tested the power at the end of the positive run from the battery. I just don't get it. Everything is loomed to the hill and the LEDS are fine because I tested it with my 12 volt power supply.
I'm betting its your ground. Clean a new spot and try again.
I've done a ton of led wiring and now I can't for the life of me figure out why it ain't working.
I ran power fused from the battery in loom to the back of the truck and have power, I tested it.
I installed 2 rows of LED strip lighting under the bed rails then ran all wires back to the switch in loom. Bought a 3 post led lit switch to connect everything up and dam if it won't light up and it blows the fuses.
Both strips have been tested. I have 12 volt power supplies I use for LED installs and had a spare laying around and plugged it in and hooked up the LED's that are installed under the bed rails and they work fine.
My ground lead is to the under carriage of the truck frame. I sanded a spot and ran the ground up to the switch location. I soldered all 3 leads together, the frame ground and 2 negs of the strips and then hooked that into the neg terminal #3 on the switch. I soldered the 2 pos. leads of the strips together and have that lead into the switch post #2. The 3rd post of the switch #1 has the battery power lead hooked in. I tried 2 different switches I had. Still the same result. I have a sneak'in suspicion the ground somehow is the issue
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I had a very similar problem and it was a short. Check your wiring for any shorts.
could you tap into the running light/brake light wiring in the taillight? you would have to turn the running lights on to get power for the bed lights. what wires would you tap into?
Took on the bed light project this weekend. It went pretty well, with a lot of prep work. I think the hardest part was running the cable to the battery cleanly.
I went with warm white 3000K instead of bright white 6000K, because I’m not a fan of the bluish tint. I tried to find natural white, 4500K, but could find any that were 5050 LEDs.
FYI: There are several different types of LED trips, here are the basic differences.
1. 3528 – Dimmest, lowest power LED – 1A per 3M
2. 5050 – Brighter, more power – 2A per 3M
3. 5630 – Brightest, most power – 6A per 3M
I went to 5050 to keep it around 2A for the whole strand.
Here is my initial wiring diagram
I have the 5.5 bed and measure the inside lengths at about 60” inches. I made each of the three lengths 57” to allow for wiring, but that was still a little long. I think 55” would be about right.
All the parts laid out and getting ready to go.
Wiring the connector was easy. Just trim the end with an exacto knife and simple solder.
I used pigtail connector between the source and each of the three section so that can be easily replaced if there are any issues.
Two finished section together.
Quick test in the house before putting them in the truck.
Since I have a bedrug I am just using velco to stick the lights to the top of the bedrug instead of the bed rails. As others have said, the 3M on the back of the lights and comes off easy. It could ground to the truck rail pretty easily. I would use additional double sided tape, or foam tape to stick them on.
Pin switch installed
3 way switch, and wires coming through stock hole.
I have a couple questions that maybe someone can answer for me... Just as an FYI, I've read up the post 600 and received a lot of great ideas and information. However with that I have a few questions when looking at my configuration.
Parts List so far:
- 16' LED's
- Waterproof rocker switch
- 10 amp in-line fuse
- 14gauge wire
- in-line wire splices
- 3M automotive tape
- All other parts I have
My intentions:
- Since I don't use the hitch that much, I intend to jump the circuit and run a constant Hot/Ground from the trailer hitch
- I intend to put a 10 amp in-line fuse from the hot wire to the LEDs and obviously ground the LEDs accordingly
- I will be installing the LEDs on all 3 sides, where indicated in the pictures and RED
- I will be installing the rocker switch towards the inside of the bed and the factory whole highlighted by the YELLOW arrow
Questions/Comments:
- First, as you can see in the pictures I do not have a 45° angle on my truck bed as some of you do. The only 45° angle that I have is highlighted in yellow arrows, but in my opinion that's too low in the bed and will most likely to damage if I install it there. My intention is to install the LEDs where you see the RED line in the Figure 1. Unless anyone has any better suggestions..?
- I've read in some of the posts that you are bringing the hot and ground wire up from underneath the truck behind the tail light and through a hole at the top. As you can see in figure 2, the only hole I have at the top is highlighted by the yellow arrow, which happens to be about 3 inches from the top of the rail. I can easily drill a hole higher by the bed rail where you see the red circle and feed the wires through that way. Again, my intention is to put the rocker switch in the factory hole highlighted by the yellow arrow.
- For those of you that have three sides of the bed lighted, how did you connect the lights that are on the back half of the bed to the bed lights that run down the sides...? Is it all one piece...or did you solder a jumper wire from one set of lights to the other...and wrap it in a wire loom...? thoughts...? See Figure 3
- Lastly, does this 3M automotive tape work well with the LineX...? I am on the East Coast so we have freezing cold temperatures, and blistering heat in the summer.. Thoughts..?
06-30-2014, 07:18 PM
