usaxray25

I just decided to do this on a separate thread guys so it wouldn't be 4 pages back...
Here's the list of supplies again with pictures of my tools and the canvas area to be drilled/ modified/ destroyed.
14 gauge galvanized (if possible) perforated metal strap
2 round Burners driving lights
16 gauge wiring
extra insulated wiring connectors
3 way LED rocker switch
A drill and various hole saws
Side cutters
Coat hanger and fish tape
Zip ties
1/4" screws, washers, and nuts----> 4
Plastic flex tubing/ wire covering
Dremel
Grinder
Drill bits and driver
A creeper (you will be on this under the truck ALOT!)
and patience...LOTS

usaxray25

I decided to run the wiring from the lower part of the dash under the steering wheel through the firewall and along the bottom of the truck, eventually zip tied to the stock wiring channel that runs to the back of the truck over the spare tire. In these pics, I show how I ran wiring through the firewall, and around the firewall, and over the hill and through the woods with a wire coat hanger...plus I show where and how I put in that little round LED switch from Radio Shack.
I matched the diameter of the switch with a small hole saw to be as accurate as possible. There was a small corner of the metal back plate (in the pictures) that I had to grind down a little to make room for the wiring connectors to the switch. Oh yeah! I drilled a small hole at the bottom of the little plate and used a ground screw to be able to have a close place to ground the 3 way switch also! Just put it somewhere it can be hidden touching solid metal. The back plate connects to braces under the dash that connect (eventually) to the frame. Perfect grounding spot. And then there is the final product at the end.
Note**the wiring with the inline fuse and c-type wire ends to hook into the battery wiring screw, were from the included wiring from the set of Burners driving lights from Wal-Mart.

usaxray25

In the next few pictures I show the firewall from the engine view. I ran the main power wire up with a fish tape behind the firewall insulation and through the front open compartment areas of the black wiper linkage covers (plenty of room!). Once the wire is able to reach the end of the little compartments. There are small areas where the wire can be fished out and ran along the opposite wall on the side of the battery and hidden under the lip so it is nice and clean looking here. The other wire coming from the switch to the lights I ran downward along the frame trusses underneath. I used black plastic wire covering/ flex tubing to shield the wire and make it look more "stock". Oh! Make sure you disconnect the battery ground for safety. If you don't, you will be like me...blowing 15A fuses every time you connect anything. It leaves you wondering why it is not working.
Hopefully, these pics will give enough info for you to be able to see what I have done and the tools I used. Hindsight is always 20/20 whenever you are doing this and thinking I should've done or showed this better.

usaxray25

Sorry guys, I found some out of order pictures showing extra about how the switch fit into the dash along with a couple of under frame shots showing the wiring (at an odd angle...)

Tampawright

those are the bulbs I use in my kitchen

usaxray25

Now for the nerve racking part. I could not get the camera behind the bumper areas well enough to show what I did back there. It was too tight. Basically, I ran the wiring with the stock wiring over the spare tire, just like Ford did with the other light wiring all the way to the bumper. On drilling a hole in the bumper cap plastic...I looked/ felt behind the bumper first to check for any surprise metal/ obstructions. I found that there is a c-shaped gap back there where the metal ends and the plastic overlaps. Just enough room to put a nice little hole. If you mess up though, it is another bumper cap (costs 200 or so?) plus a pain putting it on. I used a 2" hole saw even though my lights were 2 1/8" diameter so I could Dremel it out perfect and tight. The metal strap was for reinforcement of the bullet shaped light to be bolted on. I shaped it by hand to go around bumper/ frame metal properly. I put a bolt through the top of the bumper behind the back ridge where no one would notice. I think it was a 1/4" bolt with a washer and nut to tighten down the top of the brace under the bumper. Below the hole on the bumper, there is a plastic body nut/snap that just hold the plastic and metal together on the bottom of the bumper. I cut that out with side cutters and replaced it with another bolt, washer, and nut to be able to add the bottom portion of the brace also. Once the brace is bolted and stabilized, on top and bottom, fit the whole light through the hole and bolt to the strap. Push the light in even to get it flush! You don't want to light up the treeline only! Ground the lights anywhere possible and test.

usaxray25

And the results! Oh add that ground wire if you haven't yet, and add the inline fuse back into the little holder under the hood. Hopefully, yours work well. I am currrently, looking for a heat resistant trim to put around the lights instead of the grommets to give it more finished hi-temp look. Plus, if you leave 50 watt lights on too long, it will probably warp/ melt the plastic surrounding it! It gets hot! Anyway, be safe and let me know if you need more pics or extra info. And hide any extra wires! I may try for whiter light bulbs also eventually, but for now I have some decent light back there!

Rok

Nice! Im defintely doing something like this!

johnwill

Good writeup thanks

JBonner

A really great howto description on installing your backup lighta. I'm in process of installing KCs under my bumper on a 5.4L 2010 F150 Supercab. Your routing pictures really are helpful. Thanks for the effort.