'14 SCREW ready for pads and rotors?
04-11-2018, 08:51 AM
#1
'14 SCREW ready for pads and rotors?
65K and time for pads and rotors, looking for a DIY on youtube to try at home vs shop cost, wanted to know if picking up Duralast at local store is the way to go? Or if there are better options out there, Thx.
04-11-2018, 09:18 AM
#2
I used Powerstops, ordered from Amazon on my 2014. I see a lot of recommendations on here for them, and they were cheaper than my local parts store "premium" rotors and pads.
For a DIY, just about any video on disc brakes will show you what to do, regardless of what vehicle it is. Everything on the F150 brakes is pretty standard and just like every other brake job I've done (except for Honda's, those can sometimes be a tad more tricky).
Do yourself a favor, whichever brand of rotors you go with make sure to break them in! Most of the time when you hear people complain about "warped rotors" the actual problem is the rotors/pads were never broken in properly. Here's the instructions from Powerstop's website, it's basically what I've always done and it works for me.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
For a DIY, just about any video on disc brakes will show you what to do, regardless of what vehicle it is. Everything on the F150 brakes is pretty standard and just like every other brake job I've done (except for Honda's, those can sometimes be a tad more tricky).
Do yourself a favor, whichever brand of rotors you go with make sure to break them in! Most of the time when you hear people complain about "warped rotors" the actual problem is the rotors/pads were never broken in properly. Here's the instructions from Powerstop's website, it's basically what I've always done and it works for me.
https://www.powerstop.com/brake-pad-break-in-procedure/
The break in procedure is critical to brake performance. The reason for a proper break in is to establish an even layer of friction material deposited on the rotors from the brake pads. It is very important that this initial layer of friction material is evenly distributed.
Break in the pads as follows:5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Break in the pads as follows:5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you're forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.
Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.
After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed). This is the cooling stage. It allows the heated resin in the brake pads to cool and cure.
After the brakes have cooled to standard operating temperature, you may use the brakes normally.
Last edited by bassJAM; 04-11-2018 at 09:21 AM.
04-11-2018, 09:36 AM
#4
I've read a lot on the forum about the Power Stops as well. Another one I've come across several times, with positive reviews, are the StopTechs. The StopTechs are slotted as opposed to drilled and slotted like the Power Stops.
04-11-2018, 09:47 AM
#5
Senior Member
I would probably try to avoid any parts store-branded brake components if I were you; perhaps NAPA would be the exception here. There are good options from Reybestos, Wagner, Power Stop, and StopTech that would probably serve you much better, and some of these options won't cost much more at all.
04-11-2018, 09:59 AM
#6
How's she goin' eh?
R1 concepts is reasonably priced and is a forum vendor.
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04-11-2018, 10:05 AM
#7
I just put the powerstop z36 kit on my '14, at 54k the original pads were quite worn, and i had the wobble from excess pad deposits on the rotors. I am not a spirited driver, pretty easy on the truck and brakes, but do tow fairly often. I was going to just put napa pads and rotors on, but got a great deal from rockauto for the powerstop kit. So far so good, a definite improvement. Be sure you have a mini sledge on hand, my stock rotors took some pretty solid whacks to break loose.
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04-11-2018, 01:43 PM
#8
How's she goin' eh?
I just put the powerstop z36 kit on my '14, at 54k the original pads were quite worn, and i had the wobble from excess pad deposits on the rotors. I am not a spirited driver, pretty easy on the truck and brakes, but do tow fairly often. I was going to just put napa pads and rotors on, but got a great deal from rockauto for the powerstop kit. So far so good, a definite improvement. Be sure you have a mini sledge on hand, my stock rotors took some pretty solid whacks to break loose.
its been mentioned using a hammer can damage the electric steering. Try using a long bolt (2.5”) and a couple nuts and push from the backside. It works great
04-11-2018, 04:31 PM
#10
Go to www.powerstop.com to find out which ones you need. I have installed the Z36 on my truck and the AutoSpecialty on my Daughter's car.
My only complaint is that the unpainted surfaces rust, BAD. Next time I will paint them before installing them.