Ford refusing to warranty cab corners because they would not inspect before warranty
#111
Senior Member
All the posted pics appear to be of crew cabs. Are they the only trucks with this problem? If so, I wouldn't think that the brake light is the ultimate culprit here. Here is a couple of thoughts: The second truck had obviously been painted(color change in jamb area). Do you REALLY think Ford is gonna fix that one for free? Secondly: Read your owners manual- how does it say to wash your truck? With a garden hose. Pressure washers have no business being used on vehicles(or any painted surface for that matter). YES, every pressure washer company tells you they work on anything-and they do! Here's the problem: ALL painted surfaces have MICROSCOPIC pin holes in the surface, and even a low pressure(500 psi) pressure washer can and WILL eventually force water into and under the painted surface. The OP most likely had sand blasting in this area, and pressure washing forced water under the paint and BAM! the rusting begins. Ford could build a truck that never rusted- the problem is they would cost more than MOST people would be willing to pay. Yet another reason to buy'em new and get rid of em' before this stuff happens.
#112
Senior Member
Two tone?
Color inside doors different then outside ? Really....
I always thought when you saw a different color in the door jam the the body that was the result of s body color change.....
Color inside doors different then outside ? Really....
I always thought when you saw a different color in the door jam the the body that was the result of s body color change.....
#114
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Pressure washer is set to roughly 900 PSI. About 300 less than most car wash places. And it is a fan tip. Also, if a pressure washer will take paint off its loose then there was a problem with the paint. It needs to stay on at 70 with splashing salt and sand. Water traveling at less than 30 (with fan pattern) should not have an effect. If I had been using higher pressure the problem would have been noticed sooner. and they said they would warranty it but chose not to because they did not inspect it until the day after the warranty ended. The regional CSR has been talking with me. Waiting to hear back.
The cab corners on these trucks rust out, fact. Some worse than others, some not at all. I have personally repaired and painted 3 jobs exactly like this. All well within warranty though.
#115
Senior Member
This exactly^ The pressure washer is not the issue that many keep leaning on. I have always worked in a body shop that uses a pressure washer to clean cars. If the brand new paint is peeling off from the pressure washer, then that's on the painter.
The cab corners on these trucks rust out, fact. Some worse than others, some not at all. I have personally repaired and painted 3 jobs exactly like this. All well within warranty though.
The cab corners on these trucks rust out, fact. Some worse than others, some not at all. I have personally repaired and painted 3 jobs exactly like this. All well within warranty though.
#119
Thats why I bought it
Its a factory paint scheme..Its Blue Flame with Sterling Gray CC Accent
Printed on my window sticker
and from ETIS:
T/T Accent Colour - Sterling Grey
Rocker Tu-Tone Paint
Front Bumper-Step A-Gloss Accent CO
Rear Bumper - Step Accent Colour
Its a factory paint scheme..Its Blue Flame with Sterling Gray CC Accent
Printed on my window sticker
and from ETIS:
T/T Accent Colour - Sterling Grey
Rocker Tu-Tone Paint
Front Bumper-Step A-Gloss Accent CO
Rear Bumper - Step Accent Colour
#120
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
There's a laundry list as to why body shop buff jobs look the way they do, but I'll just stick to this one, as I think it's the most important...
A painter that can't/won't/is not good at buffing, can't really be classified as a painter in my eyes. Buffing is a part of painting, as much as sanding and taping is. Any painter I've known that can't buff, is USUALLY an awful painter. Meaning their jobs are typically really dirty, and get a lot of runs and dye back. They don't have to sand and buff it, so why would they care about dirt and runs? I trained my replacement before I moved out of Massachusetts and went to the twin cities area. That guy did not know how to buff at all. I had to teach him, and anyone who knows how to buff with a rotary buffer, knows you can only teach so far, the rest you have to figure out on your own.
I have always buffed all my jobs for the last 15 years. And because of that, I became a way better painter. I can keep my jobs so clean now, that I barely need to buff anything. Which is key when buffing on paint that is less than 24 hours old, and still has a long way to go before it's fully cured. And also key, because I do not get paid to buff.
A painter that can't/won't/is not good at buffing, can't really be classified as a painter in my eyes. Buffing is a part of painting, as much as sanding and taping is. Any painter I've known that can't buff, is USUALLY an awful painter. Meaning their jobs are typically really dirty, and get a lot of runs and dye back. They don't have to sand and buff it, so why would they care about dirt and runs? I trained my replacement before I moved out of Massachusetts and went to the twin cities area. That guy did not know how to buff at all. I had to teach him, and anyone who knows how to buff with a rotary buffer, knows you can only teach so far, the rest you have to figure out on your own.
I have always buffed all my jobs for the last 15 years. And because of that, I became a way better painter. I can keep my jobs so clean now, that I barely need to buff anything. Which is key when buffing on paint that is less than 24 hours old, and still has a long way to go before it's fully cured. And also key, because I do not get paid to buff.
I agree.