Folding Mirrors on f-150
12-04-2014, 06:54 PM
#161
Your Ad Here
I believe these are actually the cheapest (at $375 for the pair) http://www.1aauto.com/2007-14-ford-f...r/i/1amrp01124
12-05-2014, 11:05 PM
#162
Junior Member
Last edited by Platipus133; 12-05-2014 at 11:17 PM.
12-30-2014, 12:51 PM
#163
01-11-2015, 12:21 AM
#164
Some of these posts were really confusing so I thought I'd shed some light for others who may have run into the same issues I did and plan to do this. I was really confused about people drilling into connectors, I thought it was to somehow wire up to those connectors but realized the drilling was so you could run wires from the inside of the cab to the doors. Why was that necessary? I have a 2012 XLT and I simply fished wires through the same path as the other wires with a coat hanger, was really simple too. Just to let others know, before you go through that trouble you should try simply running the wires through the existing hole and boot.
Here's what I did to get the wires from the door and through the rubber boot that goes from door to cab, then into the cab. If you get a coat hanger or something similar, just tape the wires to it and aim the hanger from the big hole in the door(exposed after removing door panels) to the rubber boot. If you pull the end of the boot away from the door and cab you can watch the hanger appear through the boot hole then direct it through the rubber boot itself.
Now to get the wires into the cab, push the rubber boot end that connects to the cab aside so you can see in the hole and see the existing stock wires running into the cab. With the door wide open, if you stand outside the truck door, between the door and fender, look through the door gap at the fender where the rubber boot connects to the cab(which you pushed aside). I know the door gap is small but with a flashlight you have a straight look at the hole the stock wires are running through to get into the cab. Use that same coat hanger and tape wires to them, just push them through from that gap since it's a straight shot. You may have to wiggle the hanger a bit but not much at all.
This is all for the passenger side, you'll do the exact opposite on driver's side, fishing the hanger through then taping wires to the hanger to pull them out of the cab, then again through boot, etc. I started removing the e-brake bracket but never had to really remove it, I unbolted it and said screw it, fished the hanger through from outside and it pooped through easy. Ebrake wasn't even in the way for me. If anyone needs clarification let me know, what I typed may be more confusing than drilling for some, who knows!
Here's what I did to get the wires from the door and through the rubber boot that goes from door to cab, then into the cab. If you get a coat hanger or something similar, just tape the wires to it and aim the hanger from the big hole in the door(exposed after removing door panels) to the rubber boot. If you pull the end of the boot away from the door and cab you can watch the hanger appear through the boot hole then direct it through the rubber boot itself.
Now to get the wires into the cab, push the rubber boot end that connects to the cab aside so you can see in the hole and see the existing stock wires running into the cab. With the door wide open, if you stand outside the truck door, between the door and fender, look through the door gap at the fender where the rubber boot connects to the cab(which you pushed aside). I know the door gap is small but with a flashlight you have a straight look at the hole the stock wires are running through to get into the cab. Use that same coat hanger and tape wires to them, just push them through from that gap since it's a straight shot. You may have to wiggle the hanger a bit but not much at all.
This is all for the passenger side, you'll do the exact opposite on driver's side, fishing the hanger through then taping wires to the hanger to pull them out of the cab, then again through boot, etc. I started removing the e-brake bracket but never had to really remove it, I unbolted it and said screw it, fished the hanger through from outside and it pooped through easy. Ebrake wasn't even in the way for me. If anyone needs clarification let me know, what I typed may be more confusing than drilling for some, who knows!
The following users liked this post:
Daniejw (01-23-2015)
01-23-2015, 01:17 AM
#165
Some of these posts were really confusing so I thought I'd shed some light for others who may have run into the same issues I did and plan to do this. I was really confused about people drilling into connectors, I thought it was to somehow wire up to those connectors but realized the drilling was so you could run wires from the inside of the cab to the doors. Why was that necessary? I have a 2012 XLT and I simply fished wires through the same path as the other wires with a coat hanger, was really simple too. Just to let others know, before you go through that trouble you should try simply running the wires through the existing hole and boot.
Here's what I did to get the wires from the door and through the rubber boot that goes from door to cab, then into the cab. If you get a coat hanger or something similar, just tape the wires to it and aim the hanger from the big hole in the door(exposed after removing door panels) to the rubber boot. If you pull the end of the boot away from the door and cab you can watch the hanger appear through the boot hole then direct it through the rubber boot itself.
Now to get the wires into the cab, push the rubber boot end that connects to the cab aside so you can see in the hole and see the existing stock wires running into the cab. With the door wide open, if you stand outside the truck door, between the door and fender, look through the door gap at the fender where the rubber boot connects to the cab(which you pushed aside). I know the door gap is small but with a flashlight you have a straight look at the hole the stock wires are running through to get into the cab. Use that same coat hanger and tape wires to them, just push them through from that gap since it's a straight shot. You may have to wiggle the hanger a bit but not much at all.
This is all for the passenger side, you'll do the exact opposite on driver's side, fishing the hanger through then taping wires to the hanger to pull them out of the cab, then again through boot, etc. I started removing the e-brake bracket but never had to really remove it, I unbolted it and said screw it, fished the hanger through from outside and it pooped through easy. Ebrake wasn't even in the way for me. If anyone needs clarification let me know, what I typed may be more confusing than drilling for some, who knows!
Here's what I did to get the wires from the door and through the rubber boot that goes from door to cab, then into the cab. If you get a coat hanger or something similar, just tape the wires to it and aim the hanger from the big hole in the door(exposed after removing door panels) to the rubber boot. If you pull the end of the boot away from the door and cab you can watch the hanger appear through the boot hole then direct it through the rubber boot itself.
Now to get the wires into the cab, push the rubber boot end that connects to the cab aside so you can see in the hole and see the existing stock wires running into the cab. With the door wide open, if you stand outside the truck door, between the door and fender, look through the door gap at the fender where the rubber boot connects to the cab(which you pushed aside). I know the door gap is small but with a flashlight you have a straight look at the hole the stock wires are running through to get into the cab. Use that same coat hanger and tape wires to them, just push them through from that gap since it's a straight shot. You may have to wiggle the hanger a bit but not much at all.
This is all for the passenger side, you'll do the exact opposite on driver's side, fishing the hanger through then taping wires to the hanger to pull them out of the cab, then again through boot, etc. I started removing the e-brake bracket but never had to really remove it, I unbolted it and said screw it, fished the hanger through from outside and it pooped through easy. Ebrake wasn't even in the way for me. If anyone needs clarification let me know, what I typed may be more confusing than drilling for some, who knows!
01-23-2015, 07:38 AM
#166
Just wanted to say thanks for this thread. Got a pair of almost brand new power fold mirrors (with silver caps) for $200 plus the $28 switch and a little time.
Mine went on a 2010 Raptor, all my wiring for both switch and plugs was already there which I think I could have possibly had the computer flashed for it to work. Instead, I followed this thread and just peeled back the insulation on each wire and soldered a pigtail onto each one for extra security. I also did my driver's side first to make sure everything worked, then added the passenger side.
I saw people leaving the chrome mirror caps that came with the new mirrors, I assume everyone knows they're fairly easy to change to your stock color one? I had to change mine to my stock white ones, so while I was in there I added my ReCon smoke signals back. They were coming unglued anyways, so I pulled them completely apart and decided to add a new strip of LEDs inside it since I had some laying around. New ones are much brighter than the ones ReCon put in there.
Mine went on a 2010 Raptor, all my wiring for both switch and plugs was already there which I think I could have possibly had the computer flashed for it to work. Instead, I followed this thread and just peeled back the insulation on each wire and soldered a pigtail onto each one for extra security. I also did my driver's side first to make sure everything worked, then added the passenger side.
I saw people leaving the chrome mirror caps that came with the new mirrors, I assume everyone knows they're fairly easy to change to your stock color one? I had to change mine to my stock white ones, so while I was in there I added my ReCon smoke signals back. They were coming unglued anyways, so I pulled them completely apart and decided to add a new strip of LEDs inside it since I had some laying around. New ones are much brighter than the ones ReCon put in there.
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brianc5477 (02-01-2022)
01-25-2015, 05:42 PM
#167
Did this mod today with my Dad. Took about 2-3 hours. Flawless install!
Thanks to everyone who did all the research for me.
Now I can park in the garage easily.
Thanks to everyone who did all the research for me.
Now I can park in the garage easily.
02-25-2015, 08:54 PM
#169
Senior Member
Does anyone know what type of pins the door connectors use. I would like to install pins in the door connectors instead of drilling a hole through them and running the wire through. I would need male and female pins for it. Are the female pins used on the mirror plugs the same for the door connectors?
02-26-2015, 12:45 PM
#170
Junior Member
I would like to thank everyone that posted comments/guidance on how to install the new mirrors. With help I was able to install new power folding towing mirrors on my 2013 XLT. The mirrors were from 1aauto at a cost of about $470 and new switch at $26. Took about 2.5 hours (worked slow). The mirrors look great and only have one issue. The drivers side mirror's motor is about 2 seconds slower than the passenger side. I would post pictures but I wasn't even thinking about taking any at the time.