Steering wheel vibration when braking, dealer no help.
11-07-2011, 09:51 AM
#1
Steering wheel vibration when braking, dealer no help.
I have about 5500 on my 2011 EB and a problem that it's been mentioned to the service writer 3 times now and no resolve. When braking and the speed drops to about 43->38 or so the steering wheel will shake L/R slightly. Enough that I can tell what speed range I am in without looking.
It doesn't happen any other time or speed and is a bit more pronounced with a full tank of gas. My thought on this is a rotor problem and existed before I put on a leveling kit, back to at least 3000 miles when I noticed it.
I"ve mentioned it 3 times when I've had it in for this or that, every single time the tech reported that it could not be reproduced and was dismissed.
I am on the right track with the rotor(s) needing refinishing aren't I? I've tried putting it in N and braking and it still occurs and also coasting through that speed and nothing either. Only when braking.
any ideas guys and gals?
It doesn't happen any other time or speed and is a bit more pronounced with a full tank of gas. My thought on this is a rotor problem and existed before I put on a leveling kit, back to at least 3000 miles when I noticed it.
I"ve mentioned it 3 times when I've had it in for this or that, every single time the tech reported that it could not be reproduced and was dismissed.
I am on the right track with the rotor(s) needing refinishing aren't I? I've tried putting it in N and braking and it still occurs and also coasting through that speed and nothing either. Only when braking.
any ideas guys and gals?
11-07-2011, 10:12 AM
#2
Senior Member/Vietnam Vet
The most common cause is an air wrench with the torque set too high and the tech not tightening the lug nuts evenly. This often happens after a state inspection when they remove the front wheels to check the brakes. From now on, I will loosen and re-tighten the lugs after that type of service. The alternative is to have the rotors turned which shortens the life of the rotor.
11-07-2011, 10:31 AM
#3
The most common cause is an air wrench with the torque set too high and the tech not tightening the lug nuts evenly. This often happens after a state inspection when they remove the front wheels to check the brakes. From now on, I will loosen and re-tighten the lugs after that type of service. The alternative is to have the rotors turned which shortens the life of the rotor.
I've had the wheels off since this started and did torque down correctly, but I'm wondering if before I got it the wheels were done incorrectly.
I just can't believe that the tech(s) don't see what I am and am feeling.
06-11-2013, 02:01 PM
#4
My '13 FX4 does the same thing except that it is more pronounced when slowing down from higher speeds. I will buy a torque wrench tonight and torque them to the right specs. I also have a leveling kit, but the shake didn't start until I had my front end aligned after installing the leveling kit. So, by not having the lug nuts torqued evenly, it can warp the rotors? Just wondering if the damage is done and I should just have my rotors turned.
Jacob
Jacob
06-11-2013, 02:05 PM
#5
Senior Member
My '13 FX4 does the same thing except that it is more pronounced when slowing down from higher speeds. I will buy a torque wrench tonight and torque them to the right specs. I also have a leveling kit, but the shake didn't start until I had my front end aligned after installing the leveling kit. So, by not having the lug nuts torqued evenly, it can warp the rotors? Just wondering if the damage is done and I should just have my rotors turned.
Jacob
Jacob
06-11-2013, 03:48 PM
#6
Replace the rotors. Most of the time if they are badly warped, they will need too much material removed to correct the issue.
Yes, you can warp rotors with a lug wrench. You don't need a torque wrench to keep from doing it though. If you will use a 4 way lug wrench, you can tighten the nuts evenly by hand and feel. It's not that hard to get them right.
One of the other ways to warp rotors is to hit a big puddle of water after hard braking. Splash water on a really hot piece of metal and you can cause issues. If you turn rotors to try to correct the warp, they are even more likely to be warped by water. OEM replacements are not that high at the local parts store.
Lastly. Make sure it's a front rotor and not a back one. If you replace the front, have the rears turned or replace them at the same time. Nothing electronic here. This is a really easy DIY job.
Yes, you can warp rotors with a lug wrench. You don't need a torque wrench to keep from doing it though. If you will use a 4 way lug wrench, you can tighten the nuts evenly by hand and feel. It's not that hard to get them right.
One of the other ways to warp rotors is to hit a big puddle of water after hard braking. Splash water on a really hot piece of metal and you can cause issues. If you turn rotors to try to correct the warp, they are even more likely to be warped by water. OEM replacements are not that high at the local parts store.
Lastly. Make sure it's a front rotor and not a back one. If you replace the front, have the rears turned or replace them at the same time. Nothing electronic here. This is a really easy DIY job.
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06-12-2013, 11:29 AM
#8
I have about 5500 on my 2011 EB and a problem that it's been mentioned to the service writer 3 times now and no resolve. When braking and the speed drops to about 43->38 or so the steering wheel will shake L/R slightly. Enough that I can tell what speed range I am in without looking.
It doesn't happen any other time or speed and is a bit more pronounced with a full tank of gas. My thought on this is a rotor problem and existed before I put on a leveling kit, back to at least 3000 miles when I noticed it.
I"ve mentioned it 3 times when I've had it in for this or that, every single time the tech reported that it could not be reproduced and was dismissed.
I am on the right track with the rotor(s) needing refinishing aren't I? I've tried putting it in N and braking and it still occurs and also coasting through that speed and nothing either. Only when braking.
any ideas guys and gals?
It doesn't happen any other time or speed and is a bit more pronounced with a full tank of gas. My thought on this is a rotor problem and existed before I put on a leveling kit, back to at least 3000 miles when I noticed it.
I"ve mentioned it 3 times when I've had it in for this or that, every single time the tech reported that it could not be reproduced and was dismissed.
I am on the right track with the rotor(s) needing refinishing aren't I? I've tried putting it in N and braking and it still occurs and also coasting through that speed and nothing either. Only when braking.
any ideas guys and gals?
06-12-2013, 11:33 AM
#9
Member
never heard of warped rotors from a lug wrench... news to me. It's definitely not the wheel torques. It is your rotors... Just buy new ones, they are cheap.
06-12-2013, 11:43 AM
#10
I'm always skeptical of the "warped rotor" theory especially with the low miles you have.
I'm thinking it's this \/ this is hugely common, and almost always diagnosed as warped rotors. I'm not saying that's what it is, but can't hurt to check
http://rivperformance.editboard.com/...-in-procedures
I'm thinking it's this \/ this is hugely common, and almost always diagnosed as warped rotors. I'm not saying that's what it is, but can't hurt to check
http://rivperformance.editboard.com/...-in-procedures