Drivers side power door lock issue..
08-23-2013, 10:35 AM
#32
Senior Member
08-26-2013, 09:05 PM
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Im getting a new multimeter tomorrow. The one i had was giving me crappy readings the other day when i helped instal a big 3 upgrade and run 4awg cable in a buddies truck. It was giving me all kinds of weird voltage readings.... Im sure the harness in the door is fine. Ill have to check from the door molx plug thing and see if i can figure it out. Not sure what else it could be.
Last edited by SHORTSTACK; 08-26-2013 at 09:11 PM.
08-29-2013, 10:31 AM
#35
I took the actuator/ latch to the other side of the truck, it worked fine. So its not the actuator or latch that is malfunctioning.
Im getting a new multimeter tomorrow. The one i had was giving me crappy readings the other day when i helped instal a big 3 upgrade and run 4awg cable in a buddies truck. It was giving me all kinds of weird voltage readings.... Im sure the harness in the door is fine. Ill have to check from the door molx plug thing and see if i can figure it out. Not sure what else it could be.
Im getting a new multimeter tomorrow. The one i had was giving me crappy readings the other day when i helped instal a big 3 upgrade and run 4awg cable in a buddies truck. It was giving me all kinds of weird voltage readings.... Im sure the harness in the door is fine. Ill have to check from the door molx plug thing and see if i can figure it out. Not sure what else it could be.
On some vehicles, the mounting of the actuator becomes loose. So even if the actuator is getting current and functioning, it doesn't unlock the door. Instead, the rod stays in place and the actuator moves of slops around. I had a Sport Trac that I had to remount the actuator brackets due to this. They became loose over time.
08-31-2013, 09:59 PM
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You probably knew what I meant, but just in case... I was talking about if the actuator was working or not while connected to the driver door. Is the rod moving in an out or does it act dead while connected to the driver side?
On some vehicles, the mounting of the actuator becomes loose. So even if the actuator is getting current and functioning, it doesn't unlock the door. Instead, the rod stays in place and the actuator moves of slops around. I had a Sport Trac that I had to remount the actuator brackets due to this. They became loose over time.
On some vehicles, the mounting of the actuator becomes loose. So even if the actuator is getting current and functioning, it doesn't unlock the door. Instead, the rod stays in place and the actuator moves of slops around. I had a Sport Trac that I had to remount the actuator brackets due to this. They became loose over time.
09-24-2013, 09:30 PM
#37
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Still havent figured this out. I went back and checked all connections and wires with a better multimeter. Came up empty handed. Only thing that i can think of is the brain for the Keyless entry....
06-09-2014, 03:51 PM
#39
Ford Customer Service
11-20-2014, 08:28 AM
#40
Senior Member
Any update on these?
Now my 2010 SCrew (44k miles) is acting up. First the passenger rear lock quit - I figured it was an actuator. Now none of them work.
The fob will show the lights flash though, so I know that's working. The manual door buttons (both driver and passenger door) don't work (lock or unlock). Essentially all 4 doors must be locked/unlocked by hand now. Quite irritating!
-Matt
Now my 2010 SCrew (44k miles) is acting up. First the passenger rear lock quit - I figured it was an actuator. Now none of them work.
The fob will show the lights flash though, so I know that's working. The manual door buttons (both driver and passenger door) don't work (lock or unlock). Essentially all 4 doors must be locked/unlocked by hand now. Quite irritating!
-Matt