tmajor

Oh, that's a different situation, than I understood.

SHORTSTACK

I do appreciate your help though. It may be the ground.

hd2000

I thought that it might have been a quirk of the battery dyeing because my battery went dead about a week after the problem started. Once I replaced the battery the drivers lock started working again for about a week and then quit.

tmajor

Again, that sounds like a bad connection. The new battery probably pushed enough current through the connector. Try it with the truck running or with a battery charger on it. ??

SHORTSTACK

I haven't had a chance to look into this issue any further, due to work but as soon as I do I will update this thread.

tmajor

That would be good! One of the most discouraging and frustrating aspects of trying to help someone on these forums, occurs when they don't let you or anyone else know, if the suggestions helped or if the problem got cured. A response, lets you know, if you were on the right track or completely off base.

jpaytoncfd

While your there remember there is a connection between the door and the cab, under the kick panel and several inside the door. Theres also the connection to the Body Control modual.

SHORTSTACK

I checked the grounds. They are good.

Jpaytonfd, its getting power all the way up to the connection at the actuator. i removed the entire harness from the door and did a continuity test on the wires for the actuator. They were fine...

As of now, im at a loss and may have to take it to a dealership.

jpaytoncfd

You said you replaced the latch, I haven't looked yet but is the latch and the actuator one unit? Sounds like you have a bad actuator.

SHORTSTACK

It's one piece, been replaced, not the actuator.