Does anyone else have to regularly clean / unstick the parking brake?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Does anyone else have to regularly clean / unstick the parking brake?
When I first bought the truck (2013), the parking brake foot lever was easy, and smooth to operate. After a few months, it became harder to press, and eventually when dis-engaging, the parking light would stay on.
Dealership took rear rotors off, and had to clean out (fine dirt), and "unstick" the emergency brake, as it wasn't disengaging fully.
The pedal returned to being easy and smooth to operate.
Months after that, it's back to being firm, and the light continues to stay on again. I'm assuming it needs to be cleaned, and unstuck again.
Anyone else have to do this every few months? I don't do alot of offroading, but do drive down gravel roads, and farm drive-ways regularily.
Dealership took rear rotors off, and had to clean out (fine dirt), and "unstick" the emergency brake, as it wasn't disengaging fully.
The pedal returned to being easy and smooth to operate.
Months after that, it's back to being firm, and the light continues to stay on again. I'm assuming it needs to be cleaned, and unstuck again.
Anyone else have to do this every few months? I don't do alot of offroading, but do drive down gravel roads, and farm drive-ways regularily.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I took the rear apart tonight, and the lever is getting stuck closed. It won't release unless I hammer it closed.. It's all rusted back there, even tho it gets used 3-4 times per day.
#4
Had this happen to mine take the lever out of the truck and separate the 2 pieces. It make take a hammer and a punch but they do come apart then grab some sand paper or a wizzer and clean all the rust on the parts that touch each other then load it with some wheel barring grease or some kind of grease and slap it back together and you should be good to go
Any other questions just ask
Any other questions just ask
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Had this happen to mine take the lever out of the truck and separate the 2 pieces. It make take a hammer and a punch but they do come apart then grab some sand paper or a wizzer and clean all the rust on the parts that touch each other then load it with some wheel barring grease or some kind of grease and slap it back together and you should be good to go
Any other questions just ask
Any other questions just ask
If I have to do it myself.... can the lever pieces come out without disconnecting the shoes springs? What holds the lever in place? Or would I need to remove the lower spring (by the star wheel), and the two side clips, then the upper spring, then remove the parking brake cable from the "outer" lever, then the level just slides out?
I found a pretty good video that shows the rear e-brake assembly. This will help:
Last edited by MEZERR; 10-01-2015 at 07:33 PM.
#6
I was thinking that's what I'd have to do. Do you think this is a warrantiable issue? There's no dirt in there, just rust.
If I have to do it myself.... can the lever pieces come out without disconnecting the shoes springs? What holds the lever in place? Or would I need to remove the lower spring (by the star wheel), and the two side clips, then the upper spring, then remove the parking brake cable from the "outer" lever, then the level just slides out?
I found a pretty good video that shows the rear e-brake assembly. This will help:
If I have to do it myself.... can the lever pieces come out without disconnecting the shoes springs? What holds the lever in place? Or would I need to remove the lower spring (by the star wheel), and the two side clips, then the upper spring, then remove the parking brake cable from the "outer" lever, then the level just slides out?
I found a pretty good video that shows the rear e-brake assembly. This will help:
Hope this helps
The following users liked this post:
Steve Osborne (10-03-2015)
#7
Senior Member
The notorious "Tin worm" rust at work coupled with tight tolerance can be corrected with a little sand paper and grease or move to Arizona. I will be interested in how the new electric "E" brake works out long term in the rust belt.???
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Done. I took EVERYTHING off. The hardest part was taking the cable off the back of the level. That damn spring! I used three zip ties to compress the spring a bit, then was able to get the cable off. And same to put it back on. The next hardest part was putting the clips back on the pins.
I wasn't able to get the PIN out of the "lever". So I lubed it all up, and then used some anti-seize and levered it back and forth. It's really nice and loose now!
Put it all back together, and it works great.
Yes I'm under warranty, but the last time the stealership looked at it, they said there was tons of dirt build-up in there, and it's now a maintenance item. They fixed it and it came back 3 months later. They didn't bother lubing anything, which is why I decided to do it myself
I wasn't able to get the PIN out of the "lever". So I lubed it all up, and then used some anti-seize and levered it back and forth. It's really nice and loose now!
Put it all back together, and it works great.
Yes I'm under warranty, but the last time the stealership looked at it, they said there was tons of dirt build-up in there, and it's now a maintenance item. They fixed it and it came back 3 months later. They didn't bother lubing anything, which is why I decided to do it myself
The following 2 users liked this post by MEZERR:
Jvan20p (01-04-2016),
Steve Osborne (10-03-2015)
#9
Senior Member
thanks....I already was in for this as well...they told me I needed brakes----830.00bucks.....ummmm no......bought my own pads and ready to check and machine rotors myself....wow...still over half the pads...hmmm....interesting to see why they get called stealerships
#10
Glad it worked out for you! When I do it I have to use my air hammer to remove the 2 pieces so I'm not to surprised that you were not able to get them apart but it looks like you got it all lubed up!