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Does anyone else have to regularly clean / unstick the parking brake?

Old 10-01-2015, 10:47 AM
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Default Does anyone else have to regularly clean / unstick the parking brake?

When I first bought the truck (2013), the parking brake foot lever was easy, and smooth to operate. After a few months, it became harder to press, and eventually when dis-engaging, the parking light would stay on.

Dealership took rear rotors off, and had to clean out (fine dirt), and "unstick" the emergency brake, as it wasn't disengaging fully.

The pedal returned to being easy and smooth to operate.

Months after that, it's back to being firm, and the light continues to stay on again. I'm assuming it needs to be cleaned, and unstuck again.

Anyone else have to do this every few months? I don't do alot of offroading, but do drive down gravel roads, and farm drive-ways regularily.
Old 10-01-2015, 10:52 AM
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Use it more often or at least cycle the mechanics of it and it will keep it free
Old 10-01-2015, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeyZ
Use it more often or at least cycle the mechanics of it and it will keep it free
I use my parking brake 3-4 times per day. And it continually gets stuck

I took the rear apart tonight, and the lever is getting stuck closed. It won't release unless I hammer it closed.. It's all rusted back there, even tho it gets used 3-4 times per day.
Old 10-01-2015, 06:53 PM
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Had this happen to mine take the lever out of the truck and separate the 2 pieces. It make take a hammer and a punch but they do come apart then grab some sand paper or a wizzer and clean all the rust on the parts that touch each other then load it with some wheel barring grease or some kind of grease and slap it back together and you should be good to go

Any other questions just ask
Old 10-01-2015, 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Spazmonkey05
Had this happen to mine take the lever out of the truck and separate the 2 pieces. It make take a hammer and a punch but they do come apart then grab some sand paper or a wizzer and clean all the rust on the parts that touch each other then load it with some wheel barring grease or some kind of grease and slap it back together and you should be good to go

Any other questions just ask
I was thinking that's what I'd have to do. Do you think this is a warrantiable issue? There's no dirt in there, just rust.

If I have to do it myself.... can the lever pieces come out without disconnecting the shoes springs? What holds the lever in place? Or would I need to remove the lower spring (by the star wheel), and the two side clips, then the upper spring, then remove the parking brake cable from the "outer" lever, then the level just slides out?

I found a pretty good video that shows the rear e-brake assembly. This will help:

Last edited by MEZERR; 10-01-2015 at 07:33 PM.
Old 10-03-2015, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by MEZERR
I was thinking that's what I'd have to do. Do you think this is a warrantiable issue? There's no dirt in there, just rust.

If I have to do it myself.... can the lever pieces come out without disconnecting the shoes springs? What holds the lever in place? Or would I need to remove the lower spring (by the star wheel), and the two side clips, then the upper spring, then remove the parking brake cable from the "outer" lever, then the level just slides out?

I found a pretty good video that shows the rear e-brake assembly. This will help:
If the truck is under 36k the it should be covered by the bumber to bumper warranty. If you are going to do it yourself it's very easy you don't need to take the parking brake shoes off at all with a little pry and love the lever should come right out. No need to take the springs of or anything. And while you are in there it may be a good idea just to throw some grease where the shoes contact the backing plate there should be 3 little raised parts of the backing plate that have bumps in them. Just pull the shoe out a little and slap some grease on there not a lot just a thin layer.

Hope this helps
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Old 10-03-2015, 10:08 AM
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The notorious "Tin worm" rust at work coupled with tight tolerance can be corrected with a little sand paper and grease or move to Arizona. I will be interested in how the new electric "E" brake works out long term in the rust belt.???
Old 10-03-2015, 05:20 PM
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Done. I took EVERYTHING off. The hardest part was taking the cable off the back of the level. That damn spring! I used three zip ties to compress the spring a bit, then was able to get the cable off. And same to put it back on. The next hardest part was putting the clips back on the pins.

I wasn't able to get the PIN out of the "lever". So I lubed it all up, and then used some anti-seize and levered it back and forth. It's really nice and loose now!

Put it all back together, and it works great.

Yes I'm under warranty, but the last time the stealership looked at it, they said there was tons of dirt build-up in there, and it's now a maintenance item. They fixed it and it came back 3 months later. They didn't bother lubing anything, which is why I decided to do it myself











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Old 10-03-2015, 06:40 PM
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thanks....I already was in for this as well...they told me I needed brakes----830.00bucks.....ummmm no......bought my own pads and ready to check and machine rotors myself....wow...still over half the pads...hmmm....interesting to see why they get called stealerships
Old 10-03-2015, 09:29 PM
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Glad it worked out for you! When I do it I have to use my air hammer to remove the 2 pieces so I'm not to surprised that you were not able to get them apart but it looks like you got it all lubed up!

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