mhanna915

So how do we get Fords attention on here? I cant keep jump starting my truck every time I need to use it, I don't really want to go buy another truck to replace this one just because of an electrical issue but enough is enough. If I bring it to either one of the dealers near me, I know what they are gonna say, No Problem Found, charge me $120 to look at it and then what, back at square one. Ford, if there is some sort of testing you would like to do please let me be the guinea pig, I like my truck and just want to operate as designed.

conger

The BMS should be shutting down non essential systems if there is an excess current draw. When the truck has just been shut down the system will draw about 100 to 300 ma. for a short time. Then should go power down the ECU and instrument systems until it only draws about 30 ma. However in some trucks this isn't happening. Some vehicles have instrument systems that appear to power down but aren't. Other trucks have lighting and tpms systems doing tests while the truck is off. There are quite a few treads on this. The problem is getting people together on this. As I said before, it's a known problem. I've dealt with both Kwasi and Crystal from Ford Service as I had escalated my case over a year ago. So I don't know why they appear to be taking this info for the first time.
So there it is. Call the 800 number, get a case number and follow up on it.

mhanna915

Thank you Conger, Yeah I was amazed that there are so many threads on this problem and thankful as well to think I am not the only one dealing with a mystery draw. I will contact them and was hoping that Crystal from Ford on here will contact me and help me along. I let the truck sit today for 7 hours and go out to it and it started right up. let it run and noticed as usual the battery light is lit up on the dash and the lights are flickering, monitored battery voltage and recorded the readings, high reading of 18.8 volts and low of 10.10 volts all while running after several minutes at an idle and not touching anything, average voltage was 15.13 volts. I am not sure if I mentioned this in my original post but as everyone else has said I have witnessed my dash lights come on after the truck is shut off keys in my hand.

conger

Thankfully, mine isn't that bad. It takes 4 or 5 days for mine to drop below 10 volts. Problem is, I had ankle surgery 2 weeks ago and I'll be parked for 2 months along with my truck. So I start it by remote every 4 days to recharge and I have a tender ready should it go dead.
You should have voltage reading of around 14.25 to 14.5 with engine running. When you shut it down, you should read about 13.8 just after key off. Then it will typically drop to around 12.2 and stay.
Current reading after engine is off should be 100 to 300 ma. at shut down and should drop to 30 ma. after 30 minutes. If you're getting 18 that's too high and the regulator has failed and has cooked the battery.

mhanna915

True yes, I don't believe it should charge that high, but am checking Fords workshop manual right now on that, my draw appears fine, starts at 1600 then within 30 seconds drops to 800 then after 5 minutes to 20ma and could stay there for hours on end as I have tested. As far as the voltage readings go, it is all controlled by the BCM and are meant to charge when needed but the average of charging at an idle per the workshop manual with no loads on is 12.5 volts, it only energizes the alternator to charge when it needs to replenish the battery and then shut it down again. Im sure your aware of this strategy to help extend the battery life and less parasitic drag on the engine to improve fuel economy. ive disconnected the BCM and it still draws down, then other nights I pull all fuses and relays from the Battery junction box and still goes dead, other times have everything plugged in and its fine. Thought I had it nailed down to the rear defroster circuit and ran without the relay for 4-5 days without an issue at all then one day it was dead and has been a nightmare the past week and a half. I am a member on fordf150.net and tried searching for this concern and found 0 posts about it and figured I must be the only one and then last decided after weeks to look into other forums and couldn't be happier???? that I found all these posts on here for the problem.

conger

I think the manual is part of their problem, because a charge voltage of 12.5 vdc isn't going to charge any car battery. Every car I've worked in my life has had a charge voltage of 13.8 to 14.4 vdc. So I'm not sure what ford is trying to do with this. My own truck runs a 14.25 vdc charge voltage. I have the same specs on my FFR Cobra which runs a 5.0 engine.

When I bought my truck new in 2013 , I had it for about 3 months before the dreaded BMS message reared its ugly head. Overtime as my dealership tried to solve the parasitic draw problem. After I escalated the problem they got a couple of techs come out and the had the truck for 3 weeks pulling everything apart until they could find what is dragging down the battery. In my particular case the draw occurs randomly. My instrument lighting will illuminate by itself and power up for several minutes without anyone even going near the vehicle. It will also carry out tpms self tests while it is parked as well. Perhaps what I need is an exorcism. Lol.
Anyway I've been assured that it is something that engineering is aware of and since it only is an inconvenience for me, I have learned to live with it. I have received some compensation for my trouble and I do like the truck a lot otherwise.
To get rid of the stupid BMS message, I've fooled the system by moving the current sensor from the negative battery wire. The system will never measure excess current and therefore not report a problem. It has been like that over year and no problems.
So that's my story anyway.

ANDYANXIOUS

Okay, let's start the chant in unison........

RECALL........

RECALL........

RECALL........

I apologize for the paranoia in advance. Deep inside I feel as though Ford DOES know what the problem is. And, it may be expensive to them. With so many F150's sold, I just think they dare not fess up in light of the negative publicity and financial impacts.

My dad taught me, rest his soul, that we all make mistakes. Our reputation suffers not by the mistakes we make, but by the integrity we display or fail to display if we fail to take ownership of what happened, take responsibility, accountability, and then sincerely take positive action to correct the harm.

I want to trust my F150. Is that really too much to ask Ford?

ANDYANXIOUS

I spent $40K for the F150 in 2013
I spent $299 for a Honda Lawn Mover 13 years ago. The Honda has always started.

How many 5 hp Honda Self Propelled Walk Behind movers does it take to pull a 3700lb fishing boat and trailer? How many to tow an F150 to a dealership?

Barracuda3006

Conger I don't know what Parasitic Current draw is. But I will say this my 2013 truck spent last month over 2 weeks at the dealer trying to solve this. I was out of warranty and after two attempts on repairing the issue based on their investigations no luck. The 1st repair was the ignition key switch. $400 dollars later nothing the second was the instrument cluster over $2000 later no luck, thank god they were able to find a fault on the cluster that was under some warranty. The cluster would come back on. They said they had found the problem in the cluster. 3 months ago when this started on me, I had notice that after I park the truck and turn it off. I would come back later, 1-2 hours and noticed that the instrument cluster was back on. Next morning my battery would be drained. After several jumped starts, eventually the battery was fried. I went though two new batteries and the dealer one. May if any of you guys get a chance check to see if your cluster comes back on after you park your truck. Wait about an hour.
Unfortunately I could not continue this guessing game and out of pocket.
I no longer own my F150. Good luck to those of you with this issue. One more thing if you do go back to the dealer, have them check also the Parking sensor that is that lets the truck know its in park. I read this issue on another forum where it had a problem and the owner had the same instrument cluster coming on. And apparently this fixed it. Unfortunately I could not take try again. And I moved on.

conger

Glad I have warranty until 2021 on my 2013. I agree that Ford does know there is a problem. I am surprised that despite the growing numbers of F150 owners that have trucks with battery system and dead battery issues, that the problem has not gotten more public out cry. It remains fairly low key in the public eye.