blackknight87

I posted this out here cuz i wanted everyone to see it cuz i think it could help out not just the 5.0 but also the older 5.4s

Ok, so I was poking around one day and I realized there is lots of room in the drivers side fender where the intake pulls from. Also behind the drivers side headlight, and then in the big open section in the front bumper. I decided I could make the factory intake a ram air intake, pretty easily.

Since the new 5.0s cant do the Gotts mod, cuz the snorkel is already wide open, us 5.0 guys were stuck with that regular snorkel in the drivers fender well.

So onto pics sorry some are blurry, but i think you can get the jist.

Here is the inside of the stock 5.0 intake box. that hole leads to the drivers side fender well.


What i did was add a rubber elbow onto the snorkel had to trim the snorkel down to get the elbow off. the snorkel has a flare on it so in order to get the rubber elbow over it you need to trim it.) Also i had to trim the rubber 90 a little bit so i could have it tilted on the snorkel so that it clears the brace in the front fender well.


another pic



Then i added a 3" outer diamter piece of exhast tubing about 4-5" long so i could connect my rubber elbow to my flexible tubing. I added a piece of like weather stripping to the brace there on the right so my clamps arent rubbing on it.


then i just routed the hose down to the gapping hole in the front fender






I put a like vent piece on the end of the hose and mounted to the metal brackets in the opening. Yea i know my brace bar isnt level, but the license plate will cover most of it.


ANd here is with the license plate on. sorry for the glare.


Headlight fits back in perfect. Doesnt touch any of the new components.


For anyone curious to do this themselves, I got the rubber 90 from www.intakehoses.com part number 90L35R30 its a 3.5" ID to 3" ID

I got the tubing from Butler built Professional seat systems: http://www.butlerbuilt.net/products/...t_systems.html

the hose is part number: BBP-7100 (only comes in 10 ft lengths...ive got like 6" left over)
the vent piece is part number: BBP-7020

My "coupler" to connect the red striped tubing to the rubber elbow is from autozone. It actually a 3"ID to 3" OD piece. ideally i would have used a 3"OD to 3"OD but they didnt have it, but i made it work. the rubber elbow stretched out enought to fit in the 3" ID end. and the 3" OD end went into the red striped tubing.

I used all stainless steal 1/4" bolts and nuts to secure the vent piece to. and a piece of aluminum that i had laying around worked out perfect. I had to trim it down to about 12" tho.

Ive been compiling these parts for a few days now. Finally felt like putting it all together tonight. was pretty easy.

The hardest part is getting the snorkel out of the intake box to trim it. because you have to totally remove the intake box, at leas enough to get to the snorkel, but its tough cuz of the coolant resouvior.

I dunno if this will NET any peformance gain, but it was easy and i think it will help. i took it for a drive and i want to say it gained a slight note in the exhaust...but that just might be me wanting it to sound different haha. prolly best performace/efficiency gains will be on the highway.

Ok. done talking. feel free to comment. Oh and if this catches on, i dub it the Jones Mod. lol

BLU4TJW

Nice write up. Hope it nets + gains for you.

blueoval28

Nice looking mod! Great write up!

FiveOhFuzzF150

gott eat your heart out!!!

otto457

Good concept I just have a few thoughts. 1. During downpours it may ingest a little water like the 6.4L diesels like to do causing issues 2. There's really no ram air effect as physically it would take faster than the truck could possibly go to create any psi of "ram" effect. 3. I wonder if there's more turbulence in the system now with that bending tube instead of the fender. Not hating just some thoughts. It will probably be ambient temperature cruising instead of +2 degrees with the stock intake. I'd reset the ECU whenever you change the stock airbox.

blackknight87

good thoughts. ive thought of these too. im gonna run it a while and see how things go
. Also Ive noticed moisture in the stock airbox collecting on the bottom of the box one day after driving I heavy rain. Before I did anything to the snorkel. Not sire if my new way will net any more. But ill be sure to check next time I drive in heavy rains.

how would i go about resetting the ecu? battery disconnect?

2010FX4F150GILROY

I guess I would have to ask did you test it with any kind of flow meter to see if you increased, decreased or is it the same as before you started?

otto457

Disconnect the battery and have the switch for the lights turned on for at least 30 minutes. Realize the fuel trims will be reset so the initial driving experience will seem pepped up for a while. Wait until a full drive cycle is completed to compare power and mpg.

blackknight87

No I thought about this also. I was going to pick up a flow meter tho and do a test. I can feel it suck pretty good thru the tubing though

2010FX4F150GILROY

If you made the air flow more you are going to run really lean very quickly... This is bad and will burn a hole in a piston and cause knocking noise. If you decreased the airflow your going to run rich very quickly and foul up things with black soot on the tail pipe look for that. If nothing is really different more or less then everything overall will seem the same... Things to think of.... If it sounds like a vaccum that is a indication you actually slowed the air flow...