Compressor is F***ed
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Compressor is F***ed
So my compressor has met its end and needs to be replaced in my '10. As I'm inexperienced I'd like to know is there any benefit to replacing it with a more expensive compressor? Any experience with brands? Thanks.
#2
Member
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#3
Why isn't it a DIY job? R134a doesn't have any licensing restrictions on obtaining it. Yeah, there may be some specialty tools required for releasing quick connect lines, but compared to labor at a shop those are cheap. The biggest issue is a vacuum pump, but Harbor Freight has air powered pumps for $20 and electric ones for $99. A full gage set would be useful to charge the system, but the simple low side recharge kits can pretty well get you there unless something else is wrong with the system.
Now, as far as the OP's real question... compressors are precision devices. I've had better luck with precision devices of all types by staying with higher end units as compared to no-name imports. But I have no real experience to recommend a specific brand to use.
--Rick
Now, as far as the OP's real question... compressors are precision devices. I've had better luck with precision devices of all types by staying with higher end units as compared to no-name imports. But I have no real experience to recommend a specific brand to use.
--Rick
#4
From my experience the air vacuum type doesn't screw onto a set of auto gauges but does a home style gauge so it's not much good for auto without some rigging but things may have changed.
If the system has lots of metal shavings in it the system will need to be flushed or the metal will end up in the new compressor causing damage and stopping up orifice tube filter every few months. Depending on how much metal is floating around. This will cause increased head pressure. Which means shorter compressor life, less cooling and a little increase in the power it takes to turn the compressor. You will find yourself having to change the stopped up orifice tube atleast once a year.
You will need a set of gauges. That's a must. You can't use the cheap fill kit because you need to pull vacuum from both the high and low side.
I second the idea of taking it to a good shop and having it done right. You can do it yourself but chances are you'll miss something and have problems again next year. I don't know what a shop will charge but you will need to speed a good $200 to get the tools you need( vacuum pump, gauges, can tap).
If the system has lots of metal shavings in it the system will need to be flushed or the metal will end up in the new compressor causing damage and stopping up orifice tube filter every few months. Depending on how much metal is floating around. This will cause increased head pressure. Which means shorter compressor life, less cooling and a little increase in the power it takes to turn the compressor. You will find yourself having to change the stopped up orifice tube atleast once a year.
You will need a set of gauges. That's a must. You can't use the cheap fill kit because you need to pull vacuum from both the high and low side.
I second the idea of taking it to a good shop and having it done right. You can do it yourself but chances are you'll miss something and have problems again next year. I don't know what a shop will charge but you will need to speed a good $200 to get the tools you need( vacuum pump, gauges, can tap).
Last edited by tomtom52; 08-22-2015 at 10:20 AM.
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RLXXI (08-22-2015)
#5
Member
Chances are also good if the compressor took a dump it filled the system with it's inards and needs to be flushed out, that is another can of worms if not properly equipped and knowledgeable to do the proper procedures, aka not DIY unless your a tech with the tools.
#6
Thanks guys! I had not thought about crud in the lines and therefore needing flushed out. Sometimes I get too much into saving money going DIY and end up costing myself time, aggrivation, and money.